kc8oye

i've made the same mistake Davey... lol

bent pushrods are usually valve lash too tight and/or over-reving.

hey something I just realized we missed too.. those secondary air flaps should _NEVER_ open when there is no load on the engine. if they do. the carb is severely mis-adjusted.

get used to it davey.. these people will NEVER let you forget.

sorry Andy.. I'm anti-big block :> i would consider a 454cid LSX tho

it's starting to loose it's humor with me.

I already pull to 6000 rpm every pass with the cam I have now, and it's quite a bit smaller. i plan to move my rev limiter from 6000 to 6200 so I can shift @ 6k w/o hitting the limiter. I have no plans to go any higher then that on a stock bottom end. but my combo just runs out of lung before the 1/4 mile speed traps, and I think this cam will get me what I need. Cylinder head upgrade is down the road.. provided my current heads will tolerate the .504 lift..

i'm glad I can provide some comic relief for youz guyz

I was looking at these heads.. $575 for a pair of BARE aluminum heads.. seems like a killer deal.. 64cc, 185cc runners, straight plugs.. anybody know anything about them? https://www.patriot-performance.com/xcart/product.php?productid=72&cat=40&page=1 they're basically the same price as iron vortec's.. so if they are similar in performance.. that just leaves the weight savings.. 40lbs.. the iron heads weigh 110 lbs.. 70lbs is quite a savings... it's those.. or these.. https://www.patriot-performance.com/xcart/product.php?productid=205&cat=76&page=1 i figure it's easier to buy the bare heads, because I'm probably going to have to change the valve springs anyway.. and I can always throw one of these at them.. (i have a kit just like this in the heads I have now) http://www.competitionproducts.com/Head-...uctinfo/851225/

i wouldn't know mark.. that was before my monte developed an obsession with furniture.

yeah gas tank senders work on 5v from the gauge.. not 12

is the tank unit grounded? it's _REALLY_ important that the ground wire from the tank be attached to a good body ground. not only for the gauge, but it prevents static build up on the tank itself..

bring it down to texas, I'll be happy to fix it for you.. LOL

it's real easy to test... unplug the connection in the trunk.. GROUND the gas tank terminal in the wiring harness.. the gauge should swing to full. if it doesn't it's a wiring issue or the gauge. remember there are 4 connections between the gastank and the gauge... there is the one at the tank itself, the one inside the trunk near the latch, there is another one in the trunk by the left rear wheel arch, and the body-by-fisher connector by the fuse block. anyone of those connections could be causing a problem.

the montes are easy to correct. .just drop the tank, remove the sender, and bend the arm. if it doesn't read full, bend it downward. if it doesn't read empty till it's too late, bend it upward.

I'm looking at some new cam options.. one that catches my eye is the Lunati Voodoo 60103.. it's 227/233 @ .050 with .498/.504 lift. they spec an RPM range of 1800-6500 am I right in assuming that if this cam will make power as low as 1800 rpm, that my 2400 rpm stall converter will probably work quite well with a cam like this? I also have 3.55 gears. and my compression is somewhere in the high 9's.

ok andy.. no worries.. then it's an 80's thing... most of the tilt columns I work on are from mid 80's chevy trucks (the ones that seem to get the wobbly tilt problem the most)

i'd be looking for a BIG gas leak. the easiest way to improve gas mileage is don't drive it

the mixture screws only effect _IDLE_ if it's lean while driving.. you need to open the carb up and change the jets. I'd suggest you buy a good book on the carb you have. .and read it. even if you never actually open your carb up, the information will help you out.

make sure it's on a low fitting.. if you use the ones up high, it wont' work right as those are 'timed' vacuum

Kenny.. any changes you make. MAke them one at a time.. and write down what you did.. if the changes make it worse, go back to where it was. and try again. if they make it better.. keep good notes. running lean can cause detonation, burnt valves. quite a few different things. and with your exhaust you aren't likely to hear it pinging until it's really bad. if it's severe enough (like going lean with nitrous) you can burn holes in your pistons.. if you are running lean enough to feel it in the cold.. that's not good.

one summer I fixed about a dozen infamous 'wobbly tilt steering wheels' seemed to be a whole rash of them. .that required disassembling the tilt column all the way down to the bottom of the column and removing the four bolts, applying lock tight, and re-tightening them.. so I got pretty good at getting a column apart pretty quick

removing the bowl isn't that much harder.. just remove the multitude of screws holding it on.. it will make life easier if you remove the turn signal switch entirely, but that requires some work to separate each individual wire from the black plastic connector so that they can slide up through the column.

Isn't that what I said!? Quote: After you put the cylinder in the "run" position, which can be fun if the key won't turn. I've never had to do this... think about it.. how do u get a cylinder out with a broken key in it? or one w/o a key? the much older dash-mounted ignitions require the key tho. like the impala's and chevelle's...

yeah.. i had my monte up to around 140 when I had 2.73's.. in hindsight, I'm lucky I lived...