Evan91

I got it all figured out. The reason I had no power the circuit board burnt and blew the fuse to keep it short I replaced the tach and circuit board and is now working.

Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. Im working on it this morning and I have found I have no power at the tach. In process of finding out the reason.

I converted my cluster form idiot lights to gauges with the kit sold by sonnie24 on ebay I have seen others use the kit with success. When I first cranked the car fot the first time the tach went up and down from 300 to 500 or so but when it finally started it was reading 0 now the tach will not move at all. I did some research and found some things about a tach filter when using a hei distributor (i have a summit brand hei distributor) but they all had a tach that read just bouncing around or wont go over a certain rpm. Im pretty much lost at this point. I have doubchecked all connection, I have made and made sure the ground wires behind the dash are connected all other gauges and dash lights working properly any help would be appreciated.

I have cap keepers on mine http://www.opgi.com/chevelle/CK56975/

I have the retro sound model 2 works and sounds good. It takes a bit to fit perfect in the dash.

Replaced front pads, rotors, brake hoses, rear wheel cylinders. Found the rear brakes I replaced last fall one of them is cracked

Speaking of Rock auto here is a discount code 5% off 133203289709451 This discount code expires on April 14, 2013; so don't wait!

I came across some nice plates at a swap meet this morning I had to get them because they have 454 on them( don't have a 454 yet but that's the plan my Dads 72 monte has NF 454 as his plates)

1) '71 2) '72 3) '70

Best shop in the Cleveland area http://www.drivelinesolutionsohio.com/

put the Monte up on jack stands till spring.

Mine has shims in the rear just like yours. They were there when I bought the car.

Have the gas tank as empty as you can. Remove fuel tank vent lines (if your car has them) and fuel line. Remove ground wire bolt. Unbolt fuel tank straps lower tank. Remove power wire from sending unit. Use a screw driver and a hammer to remove retaining ring lift sending unit out of tank.

My goal currently is 13.9 but down the road my over all goal would to run a 11.9 but that's many years down the road. still need to do brake and suspension work to run that safely. Low compression: I want to be able to run pump gas 93. What would be the max compression I could run? I know there are a few factors that play into this. I was looking into the 049/781 heads the ones I see do not have hardened valve seats and I saw many people on chevelles.com saying when cutting for the seat they are hitting water and than the head is scrap. OR could I use lead additive and be safe ??? good info here... http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393077 "With todays fuels we are forced to run a 10 to 1 compression ratio with cast iron heads and 11 to 1 with aluminum heads you can run more but you run the risk of detenation."

Thanks for the input guys. I going to want hardened valve seat so the valve does not try to go through the head due to unleaded gas. Forged pistons so the skirts with the abuse of a 4" stroke. This is the heads I really like I have read alot of good things about them on chevells.com http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-2061004/overview/ and on the Brodix site http://www.brodix.com/heads/raceritebb.php For the pistons I have no idea if the block will need to be bored out so ill put up a few choices. I saw in Mike 57 post he is using SRP Pistons so I have been looking into them. Stock bore: Icon Forged may be on the edge of not being able to run pump gas but cam shaft choice can play a role in this also as well as head gasket. .030 over http://www.jepistons.com/Products/139506.aspx im looking at around 8.8/1 with the brodix heads. I know I still have a long way to go before I start buying parts im only 21 I have only rebuilt engines using stock parts so this stuff is new to me but im learning and thanks again fot the help -evan

My dad has a friend who is willing to sell me a 454 out of a late 70's or early 80's truck for $600. I know its a low compression engine with the junk peanut port heads. I would like to do a mild build/ rebuild and want to run some ideas by you guys to see if im on the right track. Parts that I have been thinking of... Intake manifold: Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap 7561 Heads: Bow tie 049 or 781 oval port smog heads like this Pistons: KB Pistons 201 or 203 that will put me around 8.4/1 to 9/1 201 link 203 link or Icon forged Cam shaft: not sure yet Let me know if im on the right track or what I should change up. I would like a plan before buying an engine. Thanks guys. -evan

I bought a 8 led 194 bulb at a swap meet and they looked like this This is a before pic left bulb burned out This is the after. again only replaced 1 bulb to test.

Your having Chuck build your engine. I helped with the rear end and mocked up the engine in that 77 nova i went to Polaris for auto tech with him, he is a real good guy. I dont live too far from him just let me know if you want to stop by and see my monte.