Mike Brichta

I managed to pick up a brand new GM ZZ4 long block engine for a good price and am considering doing a LT1 to LT4 upgrade on it before I put it in the car. I have read some pretty good reviews on this kit. Has anyone done this before? Here is the kit I am looking at: http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Performance/809/12480002/10002/-1 I would be interested in any opinions, comments, good, bad, etc. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Sam, The previous owner already switched the intake to a Dart intake so I will probably keep that on the engine. What would you recommend for a cam? I see lots of guys use Voodoo and Lunati. Any thoughts? Thanks!! Mike

I am interested in doing a cam upgrade to my zz4 engine and was wondering if anyone out there has done this already. I was at a cruise last night and was talking to a guy who has a zz4 engine that had a cam upgrade done and he said he gained around 60hp but doesn't know any of the details. He said he had the following done to his stock zz4 engine: - replaced the cam - added roller rockers - switched the intake Anyone know where I can find out what my options are? Thanks!! Mike

Yahooo, sounds like a party !!!

I plan to be there on Saturday in Bowtie Boulevard. Sooner or later I will find the rest of you. Mike

Does anyone know who makes the best posi unit? I've heard of Eaton, Auburn, etc. I'm looking for a 3.31 ratio. Thanks!! Mike

I really don't know much about the other internal parts of the rear but it looks like the spider gears have lots of play and appear to be worn around where the pinion shaft was. I'm just not experienced enough in this area to selectively replace some of the internal parts and have enough confidence to pound the crap out of it when done. That just wouldn't be fun now would it? At this pint I am planning to pull the rear this weekend and take it to the area "rear expert" and see what they tell me. I'm expecting to hear that I need to replace lots of things. They completely did my 72 12-bolt about 7 years ago and recommended replacing everything (posi, axles, bearings, seals, etc.) for around $1,100. It has worked great since then. I'm not sure I have any other option at this time.

Pinion Shaft Update: Good news and Bad News .. You tell me. Well after much cursing, hammering, etc. I finally got the pinion shaft out without breaking anything. Good News: Pinion Shaft is out !!! Bad News: Pinion shaft looks like crap !!! See (4) new pics at: http://s477.photobucket.com/user/packard36/library/Pinion%20Shaft?sort=3&page=1 After seeing how badly the pinion shaft is scored and damaged I am thinking that the rear is toast and that I need to rebuild the rear. I never had a rear apart like this so you tell me what you would do. Thanks!! Mike

I already tried to use a magnet to remove the broken piece but it didn't come out. Is there any way to know when the piece is lined up with the bolt hole? Since the shaft turns I'm not sure when it is lined up. The shaft appears to have (2) flat spots on it. Where are they supposed to be when the shaft is correctly lined up? My next thought would be to try to drive the broken piece into the shaft. But I would have to have it lined up first. How far does the bolt go into the shaft? Thanks!! Mike

Well it looks like there is definitely something wrong with the end of the lock bolt. Here is what I was able to observe: - the end of the bolt is concave - the bolt is just long enough to reach the side of the shaft - the shaft moves up and down easily about 1/4" in each direction - the shaft spins (or turns) in either direction - I hit the shaft with a punch and hammer but it did not come out Here is the link to some pics I took: http://s477.photobucket.com/user/packard...374544482146107 Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!! Mike

I will take a better look at the bolt tonight and try to post some pics. Thanks!! Mike

I wonder what would make the end of the bolt break off. More importantly, how do I get the end of the bolt out? I guess I will have to play around with the shaft and see if I can somehow get the broken piece to move enough so I can get the shaft out. I don't have another lock bolt to compare the length so I guess I will just assume that there is part of it still in there which would cause the problem. In other words, the shaft should just easily slide out once the lock bolt is removed, correct? And I should not have to "tap" it out, correct? Thanks!! Mike

Ok, I have a 70 El Camino with a 12-bolt posi rear and I would like to replace the rear axle bearings because they are making some noise. I have removed the housing cover and I have removed the pinion lock bolt but the pinion shaft will not come out. It moves freely in both directions about 1/4" but won't come out. I tried tapping on it from both sides but it won't budge. I also noticed that the ends of the shaft look different. Is there a top and bottom of the shaft? Does it only come out in 1 direction? My project has now come to a screeching halt. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Dennis, That info was great!! Thanks so much for the illustrations. That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!! Mike

I am hearing a noise from my 12-bolt posi rear which I believe to be the rear axle bearings and am planning to replace them. Can anyone recommend where to order the following items: - Axle bearings - Rear end Differential Oil - Posi Additive Also, would it make any sense to consider the "C" Clip eliminators or just leave as is? I've never done that before. Thanks!! Mike

Hey Sam, Thanks for the quick reply. I've done this successfully many times before just not for a Big Block engine. For small blocks I usually use something between a .068 and .072 jet size. I was just wondering what a big block engine would need. I know about the jet size changing all of the things you mentioned in your reply but if you find the article I would love to see it. Thanks!! Mike

I am looking to rebuild a Q-Jet for a GM ZZ454 engine and was wondering what size primary jets should I use. Thanks!! Mike

A friend of mine is looking at this engine: http://www.westcoastengines.com/Chevy-383-Stroker-Stage-2-400-Horsepower-p/ch383s2.htm Has anyone ever used this company or this engine? Thanks!! Mike

What should the vacuum be at idle at the modulator? I have a TH400. When I let off the throttle it just shifts into 3rd and I'm good to go. Do you think the solenoid could be bad and holding on too long?

Wow. Lots of questions. Here are some answers. - Brand new vacuum hose directly from manifold to new modulator - Engine is a ZZ454, 3.31 posi rear - Trans guy is no longer available - he got a better job somewhere else - I drove the car with trans for about 3 weeks before taking the entire car apart for restoration - rebuilt trans just because that seemed like the time to get it done - put in a Transgo shift kit Here is what it is doing: - When pulling out from a stop nice and easy the trans shifts fine but shifts later then expected (not sure of the RPM) - When cruising at steady speed and then hitting the pedal to make it downshift, unless I come off of the pedal it will not shift back into 3rd gear I have not checked the fluid level when warm yet. I will do this next before touching anything else. Does that help any? Thanks!! Mike

My TH400 trans shifts too late. The trans was recently rebuilt by a local trans shop and has a shift kit installed. I tried adjusting the modulator but it made no difference. I'm not surprised from what I have read about them. My questions are: - If the governor controls at what speed the trans shifts, what do I do to adjust the governor? Can it be adjusted? - Are TH350 and TH400 governors the same? - Anything else I can adjust in addition to the governor? Thanks!! Mike

Also, it is very important that the bushing is started straight. If it is a little off it will not go in and will most likely be ruined in the process.

From the looks of the first pic I don't think the bushing is all of the way in yet. They should go in until they hit the raised area around the side of the bushing (the shoulder). I usually do not paint the bushings before installing because they go in so hard. Also, I always check the ears of the rear and file down anything that isn't smooth. Both surfaces need to be clean and always use light weight oil before trying to install. I just have a big socket and hammer that I use to just pound them in. If I give them a few hits and they are not going in then I file the ears some more and look for burs. Hope that helps!! Mike

Thanks Scott for fixing the link for me!! I checked out JDWHEELS but they don't seem to have the same wheels as I'm looking for. I'm really not experienced with all of these different wheel vendors or tire brands. I'll just keep looking and learning as I go. I'm going to the Wheels of Time Show tonight and all day tomorrow so I'll see what I can learn from other cars.

I am considering purchasing a new wheel/tire combo. Has anyone ever dealt with this vendor? They have 100% feedback rating. Any thoughts? http://www.ebay.com/itm/17x8-9-Polished-Wheels-235-45ZR17-275-40ZR17-Tires-Chevy-El-Camino-1982-/360686772327?_trkparms=algo=SIC.NPJS&itu=I%2BUA&otn=8&pmod=360686703672&po=LWI&ps=63&clkid=772232254761201192&_trksid=m185&item=360686772327&vxp=mtr#ht_3351wt_932 Thanks!! Mike