Guest Posted October 1, 2004 Share Posted October 1, 2004 has anyone ever changed manual windows to power windows? if so is it very difficult? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Brichta Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 Hi Mark, I have converted all three of my Montes to Power Windows. It is not difficult, but it is time consuming. Here is a general list of what you will need to do: 1) Find a complete power windows setup. This includes: (4) power window regulators, (4) power window motors, complete wiring harness (can make your own), 2 door jam boots, and 4 power window switches. I have found that it is cheaper to buy these items seperately, but it will take lots of hours on ebay or other internet sites. To buy a complete setup will cost you around $450. 2) Fix, repair, clean and test all components BEFORE you begin to install them. The motors can be taken apart, cleaned, and greased and then put back together. The regulators can be cleaned and greased so they operate smoothly. Test the entire setup thoroughly before you install it. It could save you lots of time later on. 3) Interior parts that must be removed: (4) door panels (front and back), dashpad, both front kickpads. Once door panels are removed, you can then install the door switches in the panels. Only the driver door panel must be cut. The other single switches can be installed in the round window crank holes with a little cutting to make it square. 4) Biggest pain in the butt: Doors must be removed in order to drill holes in the doors and chassis in order to pass the wiring harness to the doors. This is easiest when car is not finished (painted) and when most parts are off the doors. Be sure to mark the door hinge positions before you remove the door, or door lineup will be difficult. Once holes are drilled, you can put the doors back on. 5) Remove old regulators and install power regulators. Some window stops must be removed to do this, so mark their locations first before you remove them. Each regulator has 4 bolts and these bolts will not use the same holes in the door. The front regulators just use another set of already drilled holes in the door. The rear regulators will reguire one new hole to be drilled. Three are already there, but the 4th is just a dimple and must be drilled. You will see it inside the frame support at the bottom behind the rear door panels. 5) Run the wiring harness. There are several harnesses that make up the complete wiring harness set. Basically, the power lead comes from the voltage regulator lead, through the firewall, then into a relay. One run then goes over the dash to the passenger side door. Another run goes to the driver door, and a third run goes down the driver side to the two rear windows. I have a complete wiring diagram that I made for myself if you ever need to look at the whole picture. 6) Test all windows and adjustments and put everything back together. Like I said, I have done all three on my Montes and just love power windows. I did the first one because it was my every day driver and then decided to do them all once I couldn't live without them. If I got another monte, I would do that one too. Hope that helps. Like I said, it is not difficult, but is time consuming. I did mine in phases. First I did the front doors and then later finished up the back doors. If you decide to convert over and have questions, let me know. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 thanks mike, i think i will get on e-bay first and try to get all these parts, sounds like a good winter project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 You can also buy brand-new power window set-ups custom-fitted for our Montes from these companies: www.a1electric.com www.summittracing.com I installed this kit recently in my 71 Monte and it was a bolt-in. As Mike said, the biggest pain is taking the doors off and drilling the holes for the wires... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 Just a thought here: How big is the hole you have to drill? It looks like maybe you could drill the door frame, but the hole in the door itself is the tough one. Is this correct? If so, then why not use a chassis punch to create the hole in the door? You would have to drill a small pilot hole for the punch, but if that could be done (even if it is crooked) then the punch could make the finished hole with the turn of a wrench. I found some on E-bay in the $20 range. Here is a photo near the bottom of this page: http://www.radiodaze.com/tooltool.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monteman1971 Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 The holes are 2" in the door and 2 1/4" in the cowl if you are going to use the factory boots. Mike, that was some step by step instructions. It would have taken me an hour to type that much with only 2 fingers I'm sure that a lot of guys are going to get some use out of them. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Hey Hey Here is one for you guy hope you know Were do you dirll the holes for the jam and door?? 2" and 21/4" And does anyone have the stock boots Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted October 11, 2004 Share Posted October 11, 2004 Hey Hey Here is one for you guy hope you know Were do you dirll the holes for the jam and door?? 2" and 21/4" And does anyone have the stock boots Dave There should be dimples in both the door and the jamb to show you where to drill... I bought accordion-style boots from www.a1electric.com/ Don't know how original they are... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Brichta Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 As was already mentioned, there are 3 dimples per hole to guide you where to drill. They run vertically up and down. The middle one is for the center of the hole (drill bit) and the other two are where the screws go that hold the boot down. I got my boots on ebay, because I wanted to go with the original look. They were pretty much standard on any GM A-body car for many years. For one of my cars, I was lucky enough to purchase the entire wire harness, with the boots included, but they can be found if you look hard enough. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Hey Hey Mike you said that the power starts from the voltage regulator what do you do if you go with a one wire alternator were do you start from I am doing away with my stock wiring so it might be easer for me I think they have a hot wire just for power windows it was just a though for anybody with stock wiring When I start to put the door together I will be asking how to adjust them (the power windows) Thanks Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Brichta Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 Hey Dave, You are correct. All you really need is a hot wire from the positive terminal. To be original, the wire from the relay goes through the firewall, to a two-post mounting block on the engine side of the firewall. Then it runs down the driver side inner wheel well to the "hot" ternminal on the voltage regulator, then from there, through the radiator support to another two-post mounting block on the passenger side of the radiator support and then to the positive battery terminal. However, if you are not going original, then you could simply run a wire from the positive battery terminal to the relay for the power windows. Also, the key to lining up the windows correctly is to mark all of the settings BEFORE you remove them. This is assuming that the window lined up correctly before you started. I usually take some spray paint and spray all of the adjustment bolts and nuts before I remove them. This leaves a "shadow" to follow later. However, if you didn't mark them or they were wrong to begin with, then it can be a little tricky. Here is the big difference as to whether or not it will be difficult. If you did not remove the glass from the door, in other words, you did not mess with the glass adjustments inside the door, then you will only have to adjust the up and down stops. This is fairly easy. If you removed the glass adjustments, then you have to deal with the tilt of the glass and bringing up the glass level. This is where it gets tricky. I only had to do this once. I got it adjusted as best as I could and then drove around for a week or so with the panels off and adjusting tools in the car. Sometimes it looks like it is lined up, but when you drive around, the winds makes all kinds of noise at the crack of the windows. If you adjust them to tight, then the door has to be slammed shut and can damage the window seals. It takes some messing with to get it right. Hope tha helps. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Hey Mike Brichta, could you email me what you have for the wiring system? I bought the hardware components used and have no wires. I have a general idea of how things should be wired but the relay for example is something I'm not sure of. It's not going to be an original setup, but just a custom upgrade to power windows for my 71 Monte. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Brichta Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 Hi 1971-MonteCarlo, I emailed you the wiring Diagram. Let me know if you get it ok and if you have any questions. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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