Odd problem of the day

[colonel]

I am finally getting around to looking into the coolant leak problem on my 496 with Brodix aluminum heads that I noticed at the western meet this year.  Noticed the leak on the drivers side right at bolt 10 in the torquing sequence.  Originally thought it was part of the oil leak problem I found at the meet as well but realized it was coolant.  The head gasket is wet in that area only and sometimes it leaks enough to run down block but not much.

 

I initially just did a random check of the head bolts I could reach and found # 15 had stripped out so I then removed the headers and valve train and went through and rechecked all the head bolts and found # 10 had actually stripped out the threads as well.  # 6 did the same thing when I was reassembling it just before the meet as I had to get the valve train redone due to mistakenly setting them up into a bind situation.  # 6 was successfully repaired as it made it to the 70lb/ft mark that time just like all the other head bolts but now 2 more holes have had the same fate.  # 10 of course it right at the point of the leak so figured I found the problem but figured I would take the pass side apart and check it as well.  I had never checked that side for a leak in that spot but did find the same problem with coolant soaking the head gasket at the # 11 bolt area so took everything apart on that side and checked the head bolts there.  I found none stripped out and only 3 with a slight movement to reach the 70lb/ft mark again so there went my theory about the bolt simply being loose enough to create the leak on the drivers side.

 

So looking for advice on #1 what you think the leak problem may be as it is in the same spot on the block which rules out the head or the gasket as switching them to the other side would put the leak at the front.  Perhaps the thread sealant didn't work in exactly the same bolt hole on each side of the block but that seems a bit unlikely although this engine seems to be all about the unlikely.

 

#2 is the thread stripping issue.  Do I rip the D/S head off and repair the other 2 holes that have stripped out and hope no more occur??  Or with the combined leak and thread problem just consider this block done and put all the parts in a new block??

 

A bit of other info.  The #6 cylinder has been scored with something as well.  Looks like the same type of thing that scored #1 cyl when this block was a 489.  I think something went wrong with the rings during installation but never did find out what caused the scoring in #1 the first time around so am only guessing at likely causes.

[Sam (Bones)]

let's see here

 

2 scored cylinders

 

the holes for the head bolts are damaged

 

I have never seen that happen before unless the head bolts were cross threaded into the hole

 

now are the bolts damaged or the holes in the block? either way I would pull the engine for a complete inspection, if the bolts holes are damaged or the threads pulling out of them, I would seriously consider getting a different block!

[LS5]

Odd questions for you...... do the Brodix heads offer the same water pocket holes (jackets) as the factory ones and are the jacket openings the same size Kevin ?

The bolts used to tighten down the heads are they OEM bolts or new style that May Not be the same thread pitch and Taper ? taper meaning obviously the threads, are they a triangle shape when looked at like OEM I have seen some bolts that are not triangle threads they are tooth like or rectangle and the threads break off thus stripping.

Are the head bolts also the same length as OEM ?

maybe useless questions Kev, last but not least, just Buy Vaughns insane engine he had in that 72 Custom from Leo Konnik hahahaha..

 

Darren. 

[colonel]

Sam:

 

Head bolts are brand new ARP head bolts and as you can see they are fine.  The block is just missing the threads now.  I am certain they were not cross threaded as I put them in by hand and the long ones especially have a long way to go through the head to help align them.

 

So this makes 3 holes on the drivers side that have stripped out in total now.  The first time I got the hole coil of threads in one piece these ones are broken up a bit but still held then let loose later.

 

 

Darren:

 

I can't see there being an issue with the heads not having holes there but do recall diff blocks having diff size holes and the rad cap is only a 7 psi cap so there is never much pressure in the system.  Even if you wiped off the coolant and checked the next day without the engine running it was back so it seeps out somehow.  Don't get it but something isn't right in the same area of the block on each side.

 

That engine would be an option but the cost might be out of reach.  As it is I have now paid for 2.5 engines and still don't have one that works.

 

I also just bought another 70 monte to put my drive train and suspension in but am concerned it is a bit too well optioned to alter from its very stock state.  It has a light in the rear view mirror, remote driver side mirror, washer fluid light, black bucket/console interior and a 12 bolt non posi rear end.  Still has all the stock wiring too.  The body has been messed with but should take less work to fix then my green car or at least that is the hope.  Still unsure I should tear into it though.