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Those w/ Viking coil overs.


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I am about to install the upper rear bracket on the drivers side and the instructions state the mounting bolt needs to point towards the front of the car. To me this seems backwards since if you ever have to remove the shock for a rebuild than we would have to remove the whole assembly instead of just the shock. Is this true?
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Then I look at Corys pictures and his are pointing forward with the nut on the front side of the bracket. This just seems backwards to me. Is there a reason for this? What would happen if I install the other way?

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I have a call into tech support with Viking but who knows if they will call back.

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That's the way I think it should go. But if you look at Corys his are opposite. I think I will put them on the way you have it. Makes no sense to have to remove the entire bracket to get the shock off.

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Glen I took two pictures of the driver side. I believe I put an extra bolt in but can't remember .

there should be 4 total on top but I see you didn't put the angled bolt in. Can't believe it would matter much.
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Glen I took two pictures of the driver side. I believe I put an extra bolt in but can't remember .

Thanks for taking the time to take the pics. I appreciate it.
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What a pain in the butt putting these upper brackets on. I would suggest having a shop do the rears. I can't even get a wrench on The top of the bolts to tighten them down!

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Good job.  It may be quite a pain but I think it is worth it. I forgot about all that fun. I also had an issue with the lowers because of the type of trailing arm I used. I had to grind the head of the nut down a bit.  To top it all off my 3 inch tailpipes wouldn't work after installing the rear shocks. 

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Good job. It may be quite a pain but I think it is worth it. I forgot about all that fun. I also had an issue with the lowers because of the type of trailing arm I used. I had to grind the head of the nut down a bit. To top it all off my 3 inch tailpipes wouldn't work after installing the rear shocks.

Speaking of the control arms....I went to boxed lowers and the bolt we are supposed to add above the control arm bolt looks like it might interfere with the movement of the control arm. How important is that bolt?

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Hey Glen, when you get a minute, take a photo from the rear of the car. I want to see how far those rear coil overs are from the ground. Sure looks like they mount quite a bit lower from that photo of the lower mount............THX!

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Hey Glen, when you get a minute, take a photo from the rear of the car. I want to see how far those rear coil overs are from the ground. Sure looks like they mount quite a bit lower from that photo of the lower mount............THX!

No problem Murphy!

post-1188-0-80453400-1466962990_thumb.jpeg is this what u are looking for?

 

The bracket itself sits about 2" lower but the shock itself is about level with the original location of the stock shock mount. According to the instructions you can have the shock mount in the upper or lower position. I chose the upper position cause I want a higher ride height. If you are looking to have a low rider you can have that option.

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Glen just saw you asked about that bolt. I had an issue with the lower control arm. The head of the bolt was interfering with the the Control arm. I had to grind the head of the bolt a bit . You need the bolt if it is the one I am thinking of. Attached some pic's

 

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Glen just saw you asked about that bolt. I had an issue with the lower control arm. The head of the bolt was interfering with the the Control arm. I had to grind the head of the bolt a bit . You need the bolt if it is the one I am thinking of. Attached some pic's

post-1188-0-88744800-1467206300_thumb.jpeg I am talking about the upper one on the side we had to drill a hole for.
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Glenn , I believe you  do need it. I ran into issues too so don't get discouraged. Took me a while. Turned out with the shock moving outward, my 3 inch tailpipes that came with my Torque tech kit no longer worked. I had to get custom tailpipes made. Here is a picture of the bottom Mount on my car. I can get more if you need. just let me know.  

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I will have to check if I now have clearance for the nut head now that it is on the ground. when the axle was hanging the control arm was in the way of getting the bolt thru the hole I drilled. I think a low profile bolt head would work if they make such a thing.

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Glenn , I believe you  do need it. I ran into issues too so don't get discouraged. Took me a while. Turned out with the shock moving outward, my 3 inch tailpipes that came with my Torque tech kit no longer worked. I had to get custom tailpipes made. Here is a picture of the bottom Mount on my car. I can get more if you need. just let me know.

 

I see you really ran the spring base way up the shock too. What is your ride height at when measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well? I thing mine is set at 25" I think I would like another 1" but I only have a bout 2" of thread left on the shock.

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I believe its 25.5 to  27. I can't measure it right now. It s up off the ground trans went last friday so its up off the ground I had to pull it out.. When I get it back in and on ground I will let you know. 

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That bolt in question looks pretty tight against your control arms. The problem I see with mine is they are boxed square and looks like it will hit the bolt head and could possibly gouge the control arm. I am going to look around to see if I can get some low profile bolts. The old control arm wouldn't of caused problems but these UMI control arms are wider. If I can't I will do what you did and grind the heads down a little.post-1188-0-77845100-1467255896_thumb.jpeg

In this pic you can follow the control arm edge back and it is in line with the hole I drilled.

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Glen question if you move the jack stand under the rear end will the angle of the control arm change? Right now it looks like your suspension is fully extended and I know they want the weight off the compounds when adjusting. I saw where you are 25" with the coil overs and want atleast one more 1" are you looking for 24" or 26"? I have 26" on my  70 with just lowering springs and a 26" tall tire, the other one sits at 26.5" with its adjustable coil over and a 33" tall tire it can go down maybe 2" more.

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Glen question if you move the jack stand under the rear end will the angle of the control arm change? Right now it looks like your suspension is fully extended and I know they want the weight off the compounds when adjusting. I saw where you are 25" with the coil overs and want atleast one more 1" are you looking for 24" or 26"? I have 26" on my  70 with just lowering springs and a 26" tall tire, the other one sits at 26.5" with its adjustable coil over and a 33" tall tire it can go down maybe 2" more.

I want to get the rear another inch higher so 26" would be good. And yes the control arm is fully extended In That pic. Even with the shock on fully extended it binds. Under normal use there may not be a problem but why take the chance? I still have about 2" of threads left on the shock so I should be able to get it an inch higher. just seems odd that I have to use almost the whole shock to achieve what I want. I wonder if some slightly heavier springs would be a good idea?

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Well I installed the 2 bolts for the lower bracket. I think the bolt heads will clear without binding the lower control arms. I also measured my threads and I come in at 2 3/4" so when time permits I will adjust them up another 3/4" and see where I am at. Fun stuff!

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