Ian Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 Well going to order it (G3 3802 analog) tonight, hope it gets here by the weekend. Quick question should I get the matching Oil or Water gauge? I have never had a problem with high temps and have water temp on the Edelbrock FI controller.... I am getting the 2 gauge pod for the A-Pillar to mount them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted September 17, 2010 Author Share Posted September 17, 2010 Ordered this morning Got the oil pressure gauge for now... Can't wait for it to get here. Mark I am sure I am going to have questions for you and Andreas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted September 18, 2010 Share Posted September 18, 2010 My gauge from them required hookup to a serial port on my computer. Geez, I thought for sure I had that. LOL. I come to find out that many newer 'puters don't have serial ports anymore. I'm still learning. Innovate has a nice serial port-to USB adaptor if you need one...thought I'd pass that along so you have everything to get started when it arrives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted September 18, 2010 Author Share Posted September 18, 2010 I have a "older" laptop, but you know what I still may need a converter because it only has one serial port, and I want to be able to hook up the edelbrock tuner and the wideband at the same time... I'll have to play with their software and the edelbrock software to see which one helps me more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted September 27, 2010 Author Share Posted September 27, 2010 Gauges are mounted It was after 1am and only had my cell phone, will upload better pictures when they are working.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Well, what are the numbers? Let's hope the gauge tells you things need adjustment. If the ratios are correct already, you'll feel bad about spending on the gauge. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Well it is rich across the board Got to get it leaned out. I was working on the idle a little tonight, and got it a little better. Had a few 's so I did not take it out for a real drive yet need to get my buddy to come over so he can take notes as I drive Here is a video I took right after I got the gauges working. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Same thing happened with mine: I was also too rich at cruise & idle. Being that way required a lot of ignition timing to make it run right....I figured it was just my engine combo that wanted that. Once I was able to lean out the idle & cruise, it revved much more crisply and actually pinged a little when I took it out for a test drive. I was able to retard the timing and it all came together. It feels much more responsive and even sounds healthier from the exhaust tone. I found that I had to alternate between mixture, timing, mixture, timing to reel it in where it belonged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 OK I think I got the idle just about where I want it. Mark what did you shoot for AFR at idle? Here is a short video of it idling in park and in gear. Still has a little surging?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I ended up with about 14.5 at idle, 14.7 cruise, and 12.8 at full throttle. I think I would be happier if I had 12.5-12.3 at full throttle but I'm happy with the other numbers. If you have an aftermarket cam with any rough idle, it will make your gauge read leaner than the engine is actually running. Get yourself into the 14's, and you'll notice a difference. Double check your ignition timing. I started out happy with about 19 degrees of initial timing, but brought it down to about 12 as I leaned out the mixture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I ended up with about 14.5 at idle, 14.7 cruise, and 12.8 at full throttle. I think I would be happier if I had 12.5-12.3 at full throttle but I'm happy with the other numbers. If you have an aftermarket cam with any rough idle, it will make your gauge read leaner than the engine is actually running. Get yourself into the 14's, and you'll notice a difference. Double check your ignition timing. I started out happy with about 19 degrees of initial timing, but brought it down to about 12 as I leaned out the mixture. Mark just curious, why would you be happier with a 12.5-12.3 reading? Is that just an accepted number people use or are there actual performance numbers to back that up. When I dyno'd my motor it didn't like anything in the 12's. In the test parameter of 3000-6000 RPM peak TQ and peak HP were at almost identical afr levels, 13.68 driver side and 13.46 passenger side. Another interesting thing is how the afr numbers swapped from diver to passenger starting leaner on the pass side and changing to fatter half way through the RPM range(the swap occurred at 4100)....we went fatter and leaner, swapped hab's and used zero, 1", 1 1/2" and 2" spacers. The above was the best pull and used the 1 1/2" spacer. The EGT's didn't really vary too much picking up just under 200 degrees from 3000-6000 with the pass side just a tick cooler most of the time...just interesting...Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I have to admit that I'm guessing where it should be. From the data I have found, the general target seems to be right around 12.5...but you're right; I don't know that to be true with my motor. I'm surprised to hear that yours did best in the 13.5 range...that makes me feel a little better about my current readings, but I'm still surprised. I thought it was better to err a bit on the rich side when at WOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyDavey Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 I agree Mark error on the fat side. The motor started out lean and we had to fatten it up with jets, high air bleeds and power valve changes. It didn't take much individually but all three combined did the trick. For a 10 second burst I think you would have to be really lean to hurt anything at my power level and compression. I do use pump VP100 to guard against anything like that. Depending on the air temp, DA and humidity I will jet up and down maybe 2-3 steps at the track and the motor does respond to those small changes. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuffaloBillPatri Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I just installed a AEM Wideband UEGO, Analog Gauge kit, works great. I welded in a 2nd bung into drivers side just rear from X-pipe connection. It agrees with my narrow band O2 sensor that's in the passenger side forward of the X-pipe connection. When my Edelbrock Pro-Flo hand held unit is indicating STOICH 14.7 red/green blink, the AEM gauge shows about 14.7 Still tuning & tuning. BBP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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