amsterdam84 Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Ok last time I drove the monte I couldn't help but notice how much the car wanders around the road. If there are any grooves or ruts in the road its made even more apparent that the car is sort of doing its own thing and I am mearly making suggestions as to its direction of travel. I feel its about time I do something about it. I jacked the car up and got to wiggling stuff around and noticed that all the mounting points with a grease fitting are not tight. The castle nuts are threaded all the way down with the cotter pins holding them in but they are not tight on the joints. What method do I use in tightening these? I imagine when I put it together last that the joint will spin if I try and put any tension on it once the nut starts to tighten on the eyelet of the next part. Are there any torque specs? Second thing I will be doing after this is purchasing a used steering box from a 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee. These are apparently direct bolt in boxes that give you the same turning radius of the stock box but with much less turns lock to lock and a bit more road feel in the wheel. I can get a box from the 97-98 years around $75 locally here. All I would need after that is a replacement ragjoint and and flare seat adapters. Only hope that the bolts holding the old box in aren't too seized in there. They have never been removed and have been painted over for the last 4 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Those joints need to be replaced unfortunately. If they are stock ball joints, they will need to be drilled out as they are riveted. If they are aftermarket, they will be bolted in. The biggest pain in doing that is removing the front springs to do the project. That will make a HUGE difference in how your monte handles. I would recommend holding off on the new steering box until you get the ball joints replaced. You may not need to do anything to your existing box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gprimm Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 you can also use a Monte SS box from 83-88 or a Camaro / Trans Am steering box from 83-92. Got mine for $35. Do you need the rag joint # to order? How about the flare inserts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 If you have the numbers for the rag joint and flare inserts that would be great. I just found out my dad has a US address to ship parts to as well so that should make getting this done easier. I thought about using SS G-body boxes but they are not as available as they were a few years ago and the ones you find now are being sold for much higher. Never tried the Trans Am box, didn't know they matched. Anyways I did already buy the box today. It is actually the steering linkage points I'm trying to describe. Every joint is the same as a balljoint. I think what happened is I tried to tighten them and the ball would spin and not let me tighten enough to get the cotter pin in so I backed it off. I should be able to get in there and try again armed with the correct way of installing them. I recently purchased a new power steering box as well so while I am in there replacing that I thought why now replace the box as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 At my last ft end alignment the old timer adjusted my gear box and it helped a little. IMO, First Gen's will never drive like today's cars in OEM trim. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 I'm also going to be replacing the front coils as well. They are the original ones. At the same time the shocks will go too. They are maybe 4 years but not the best quality. I might as well replace the ball joints as they are original too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gprimm Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 OK, here is what you need: Rag joint: Dorman part #31011 (around $42 US) High pressure insert: Lee Manufacturing, 888-698-6679 ($4) Low pressure insert: Lee Manufacturing ($4)/ George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGD72Monte Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 If you have the numbers for the rag joint and flare inserts that would be great. I just found out my dad has a US address to ship parts to as well so that should make getting this done easier. I thought about using SS G-body boxes but they are not as available as they were a few years ago and the ones you find now are being sold for much higher. Never tried the Trans Am box, didn't know they matched. Anyways I did already buy the box today. It is actually the steering linkage points I'm trying to describe. Every joint is the same as a balljoint. I think what happened is I tried to tighten them and the ball would spin and not let me tighten enough to get the cotter pin in so I backed it off. I should be able to get in there and try again armed with the correct way of installing them. I recently purchased a new power steering box as well so while I am in there replacing that I thought why now replace the box as well. Mike, the joint should not spin because it is being wedged into the taper of the hole. It is more likely that you just backed off to align the cotter pin. There is a range of torque allowed for these castle nuts as well as a third, higher max torque value permissable to align the cotter pin. Once your torque values get into the range, you should be looking for the next (nearest) hole to lign up before you get to the max value and you should never back off the nut for cotter pin insertion. I'm eager to get your review of the Cherokee box, I've read they are a direct bolt in also. I replaced just about every single component in my front suspension and steering, including overhaul of the steering box and Bruce is right, the OEM steering is not the greatest, in fact my 1984 daily driver's rack and pinon feels much more stable. I'm thinking eventually of a Delphi 670 which others have described as the most significant improvement to their car, but they are pricy. Your Cherokee option is priced right and if it gives similar results, I might go for one of those myself. Pls keep us posted and let me know if you need any info on the front end. Here is my related album in case you have not already seen link to front end overhaul and for the steering link to steering overhaul. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 Call me young and foolish. I did that probably 7 years ago. this car has been my first real car that wasn't a deathtrap. And I haven't driven it that much due to a number of issues and just assumed this was how old cars handled. I will have to wait for ragjoint and flare adapters so please tell me what kind of measurements you want me to take before and after to give you a good comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 OK so I was under the car today and removed the old cotter pins from the steering joints and torqued them to 35 pounds. Seems most of these were ok. The end 2 joints however both were loose. I was able to get at least 2 revolutions of the nut before it tightened. Took it for a drive and that feels much better. I have the jeep box now and received the flare adapters sunday. All I need now is a ragjoint and I should be good to start the job. P.S. the flare adapters are now $5 each plus $5 for a punch to put them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amsterdam84 Posted July 19, 2012 Author Share Posted July 19, 2012 OK I need some info. I called Lee Engineering again to see if the ragjoint was in stock and they are still on backorder with no change in the foreseeable future. They told me that I should look for the Lares 200 part. I thought someone here said to use a different number for our cars. Anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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