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OK I need help,,,AGAIN,,,, I am trying to put the facrtory power windows in this 72 monte I have 2 sets and they are both from a 72 Monte the front I have in the rear nothing lines up any words of wisdom out there???????????? The factory crank is way smaller and looks like I will have to redrill if you know is that the answerr? the crank holes are 3 1/4 ans the power wondows are 3 1/2 plus from top to bottom the holes are twice as far apart. AS ALWAYS I THANK YOU GUYS FOR YOUR HELP BEFORE I GET IT. Bob 1790f42e.jpg

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Hey, Bob,

 

I installed power windows in my '70 last spring and took lots of pictures so I might be able to help, but honestly, I really don't understand everything in your post. For example, what do you mean when you said, "...the front I have in the rear nothing lines up ..."

 

If you are asking about the four mounting hole locations for the electric regulators I can tell you they are NOT the same ones used for your manual regulators. Also, the holes for the electric regulators should already be drilled in your door, you just have to correctly identify which ones they are. You should NOT have to drill any mounting holes in your door and DON'T try to reuse ANY of the four holes that held your manual regulators in place - use the other four holes instead.

 

This photo shows the manual regulator mounting bolts being removed. You can clearly see the four mounting holes for the electric regulator already in the door (2 above the ratchet and 2 below - left hand one is slotted).

 

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This photo shows an electric regulator positioned roughly as it will be once you get it inside the door. Look for the four mounting holes in your electric regulator frame and then look for four holes in your door that correspond and use them. Forget the holes that were used to mount your manual regulators!

 

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This photo shows the electric regulator mounting bolts being tightened. As you can see, they are in completely different locations from the original mounting bolts.

 

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Sorry if I am not understanding your question. Feel free to try again.

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the spacing on the none power are 3 1/4 " and the spacing on the power are 3 1/2 " front to rear and 9 1/4 " top to bottom on the power and 5 1/4 ' top to bottom on the none power.Looks to me I will have to redrill for sure just trying tp make sure before I start drilling holes. thanks Bob

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Powerwindows003_zps35a31b45.jpgPowerwindows002_zpsa9eb36f2.jpgPowerwindows001_zpsf2375eb3.jpgleft the reg. power &none power right the rear panel you can see there are only holes for the none power bottom left is the front and it went in with no problem. like I said the spacing of the holes are off by a 1/4" front to rear and by 5" top to bottom.Does help you understand better? Bob
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Hey Bob, I worked at GM for years and Every single Monte Carlo and Chevelle have all the holes for Power Windows or Manual windows all pre drilled already. So every door and rear flank were pre drilled for either option it got, when switching options they had Dimples to be drilled out to fit the other regulators to be put in. Power door locks are marked as well with Dimples, when you open your doors look down the bottom of the door itself and you will see the Factory Dimples for where you can drill out each hole for the 3 required to hold the lock actuator and same on opposite side for the power window harness to go through the door frame the two screw dimples are there you just drill them out and center the larger hole on the middle for the Boot to hold onto. The Rear window holes are way down in the corner of the flank where the V wedge brace is. 3 will be visable tilted slightly on an angle the 4th will go through to the bottom right side of that V brace with a 7/16 socket on an extention to reach through where as the Manual window holes were quite a bit higher up in the mid area of the rear panel... there is also a US dollar size hole in the bottom opposite of where that last bolt goes and thats where the factory wiring harness goes and then it runs up that rear seat area about 12" off the floor and goes all the way over to the other side hidden behind the seat and held by plastic retainers and the same applies as described for the drivers side now... good luck hiding that PW relay behind the drivers kick panel as the ebrake will have to be unbolted and slid aside..... any other questions or I'll go on forever....

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Okay, Bob, I think I got the part about your problem being with the rear windows and that requires a different answer and different photos. All three of the pictures in my first post were of the driver's door/window. Following are photos of the passenger side rear window:

 

First, something you already know ... the bolt locations of the manual regulator. NOTE: you can clearly see the top two bolt holes for the electric regulator BETWEEN the upper and lower mounting bolts of the manual regulator in this photo. Do NOT try to reuse any of the four original mounting holes for your electric regulator.

 

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Next, YES, you will need to drill the two lower mounting holes and they are in hard-to-reach places as Darren has already replied. Look for the dimples in the locations shown in the following photos and drill the proper sized holes. In the first photo, you can barely see the dimple for the second hole to the right but there is also one under the tip of the drill bit in this photo. These two holes are for the lower mounting bolts of the electric regulator.

 

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There is one more hole you need to drill/cut down there for the wiring harness grommet as shown in the photo below.

 

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Now you can insert the electric regulator and bolt it up using two pre-drilled holes on top (NOT previously used by your manual regulator) and the two new holes you just drilled on the bottom. Everything should fit and bolt right up just fine. The hard part of this job as I remember it is getting the &$%#! electric regulator into place. I had to set a 12 V battery on the rear floor and use long leads to reposition the arm several times to get mine into place so good luck with that!

 

This photo shows how the electric regulator is bolted in (the lower two bolts are barely visible) and how to route the wiring harness through the new grommet hole you cut previously.

 

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Hope this helps. I never got around to completing my photo journal last spring because I left Florida right after I installed the power window and door locks. I'll try to get that organized and put captions on the photos if that will help you out. Good luck, Bob, maybe you've done this before, but I found it to be a non-trivial project.

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Thank you Dennis a picture is worth a 1000 words I think I got it now. I could see how it would work just dropping down from the original holes for the crank windows but now that you point out the dimple and where to drill it makes sense should have them all in tomorrow.........I HOPE.......then I can get the interior back it and crank it up the injectors have a tendency to clog when sitting to long (maybe not this time I put marine stable it the gas the last time it sat because of my prostate cancer surgery I had just the gas in it didn't think it made a diff since it was always in the garage and it has never been below62 or hotter than 74 in here. Thanks again for your time and help.. Bob

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Wow, that is a lot of work to add the stock rear electric windows.

I bought the aftermarket kit from Electric Life for the rear windows and it bolted right in... smile

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This makes the second time someone had to change the location of the bolt holes for their power window system. I know when I did power windows in my Monte(70) they bolt back in place of the manual crank windows front and rear.

 

Did you also install aftermarket regulators? They may be made to fit the original holes.

 

I've only done it once, but the original factory power regulators do not use the same mounting holes as the manual regulators - not even close. The only holes I had to drill were the bottom two on both sides in the rear and they were dimpled. If I understood Darren's earlier post, even those lower holes are pre-drilled on some first gen Montes.

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Not drilled on mine but no problem when some one tells you where to look,now I will check for a dimple on any thing "LIKE THE RUBBER BOOTS FOR THE POWER WINDOW HARNESS" and they are there thanks to you all you made this a lot easier.At least I have all the tools I need.

Bob

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  • 1 month later...

In installing power doors there is need to inspect the doors in order to find out the wire harness from the door to the passenger compartment in the car. These factory harness runs through the door to the kick panel in some kind of vehicles.

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