custom electrical and A/C delete help

[Carla's King]

Hey yall its been a while, and I need some quick help. Long story short, drove car to cali, broke down around texas, either the cam went flat or the carb power valves went out idk yet, but I'm doing the electrical and dash work, modding the dash and installing 8 mechanical gauges, 2 boost gauges, fuel, volt, water temp, oil pressure, speedo and tach.

 

But my concern atm is the ac unit, ill work on the wiring later. I want to remove all the tubing and piping from the ac. Well basically I want all of it gone. I've begun dismantling the engine bay unit but am having trouble with what exactly CAN be removed. (If someone could get a pic of the monte engine bay and circle all the ac stuff that can be removed and give a short descript of what to do that would be great!)

 

Then there's the inside of the cab stuff that I can't figure out how to remove.

 

There's a lot of electrical stuff that's there that doesn't need to be. And I would rather it not be. I got a lot of electrical components going into the car and need as much room behind the dash as possible.

 

To name quickly the things going in there 3 cameras and 3 monitors, 5 amps, 10 cross overs, 10 speakers, 2 15 in subs, and a television in the trunk. And about 6 sets of leds. That's A LOT of cables.

 

Namely what I need to know on the electrical side is what wires do I NEED...

 

So far I got 12v constant, ground, and Accessory, which I can tie into for the headlights, high beams, stereo, and the leds.

 

Aside from those 3 are there any I should be aware of? There's a plug on the steering column that I believe. Connects to the motherboard thing on the gauge cluster but that's removed now. So what do I need from there?

 

I'd greatly appreciate your help and I have tons of pics that I'd like to show you but I'm waiting till the projects done before uploading them all. And hopefully ill be able to show her off at the next meet.

 

Look forward to hearing back from you guys.

[Andreas]

Just a thought:

 

If I were planning what you are planning, I would completely remove the AC and replace the wiring of the car with a new aftermarket set, for example from Painless Wiring. Then you have a fresh start, all old wires removed and replaced by new and better quality and the fusebox replaced with modern fuses...

 

 

I have done that to my Monte in two weekends two years ago...

[Carla's King]

Well in theory that is exactly what I'm doing. And thank you for the reply. I have a fuse box that I built for my 95 camry that I never finished but can use for my monte.

 

Has fuses for, stereo, headlights, high beams, fog lights, tail lights, led's, amp fans, and 4 auxilary fuses that I haven't decided what to use for yet, probably going to use them for each door popper, and the hood/trunk. Or put both poppers on a single fuse and use one for the inverter for the heater I plan on installing (a cheapo one from wal mart fabbed into the bottom of the passenger side dash for my fiancee who always seems to be cold, even in 100 degree whether)

 

All the wires that I need to keep will be re ran, and redone, but I have about 100 ft of 1/0 battery wire, and 150 ft of regular wire spanning from 6 gauge all the way to 18 gauge that I planned on using for my camry but now have left over and would like to use before it oxidizes and my 800$ invest ment of wire goes down the drain.

 

Not to mention doing it all by hand I can run the wires whatever way I see fit

 

I've looked at the wiring diagrams online and in my 70-72 chilton manual but. Can't differentiate needed by uneeded cuz so much in my car has been removed.

 

As far as the functionality, motor, drivetrain, and gauges I'd like all of those to be mechanical. Which leaves me a ton of room to hook up all the electrical components my heart desires.

 

Any idea as far as which wires I can do without from the inside of the cab? Color wise? I don't have the electrical system hooked up so I can't use a volt meter to check. And also, any idea how to remove the cylinder lock mechanism for the key? I plan on doing a push button ignition set up and need the cylinder lock, and steering lock mechanisms out. (Learned that the hard way in my camry, installed the push button and drove to the store, first turn I made the steering wheel locked on me and I nearly went through a liquor store. Not fun...)

 

Thanks for the help Andreas

[monte70car]

Main items to start the car two purple wires found on the steering col for the neutral safety switch one end goes down to the starter the other end goes the the ing box on the col(a foot up for the safety switch). there is a red 12volt battery wire which plugs into the ign box and the other ends goes to the fuse panel, there is also a pink wire which is 12v ign and a brown 12 volt acc wire in the ign box. on the steering col you will need these wires White 12 volt feed from brake switch

Dark Green RH tail lamp

Yellow LH tail lamp

Purple 12 volt feed from turn flasher

Brown 12 volt feed from hazard flasher

Dark Blue RH front park lamp

Light Blue LH front park lamp

Black Horn relay ground wire

pink and light green are back up lights and the are part of the safety switch.

For the rear you will need the following

Tan Fuel tank sender lead

Brown Tail lamp feed

Yellow LH turn / brake feed

Dark Green RH turn / brake feed

Orange Dome / courtesy lamp feed

White Dome / courtesy lamp

There really ain't much space to gain behind the dash as you think. I rewired my car in late Dec early Jan even changed my dash cluster out and did not gain any more. as you can see in the following picture new home for my dash The dash it self is pretty close to the firewall. If you do away with the a/c and heat you might pick up a little bit of room. As for removing the a/c stuff under the hood the box on the firewall can come off the a/c condesor that's bolt to the radiator support can come off the a/c compressor and the liquid lines can come off. Once you remove the firewall box you will have a hole(mine was where the bare piece of steel was tacked in place) which needs to be filled along with the hole under the fender for the blower motor.

[Andreas]

Just redo all the wiring. Check the Painless Wiring website and download one of their install manuals, like the 68-72 Muscle Car wire harness. That should give you an idea which wires are 'needed'.

 

As far as the ignition lock removal, you will have to remove the steering wheel and column components down to the signal switch, I seem to remember. Then you push in a spring/tab and the ignition lock cylinder should be removable...

 

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090222194449AAmXBOo

[Mo's70MCs]

Man that's a tall order with the existing wiring, not only in the engine bay but behind the dash. I agree start from scratch, you're gonna need a beefy battery, definitely an oversize alternator to support all the new stuff coming in, you'll need more circuits in the fuse block. So starting over is essential with an ATO style fuse block, then the most important of all would be to rough draft a sheet of paper of all the new stuff and all the old stuff combined. Are you going to use monster cable? Plus the answer to your question what wires can you do without? That's more left up to you..I'll start with a couple..(1) No A/C wiring, (2) cigarette lighter? (3) windshield wipers?.. you see where I'm going here? Good luck! Keep us amused with some pictures..

[black07ss]

Don't forget to get a box of ear plugs. Sounds like you will be heard from a few blocks away

[Mo's70MCs]

Michael, How far are you from this stage?

 

 

[Carla's King]

@Monte70Car,

 

I'm building a custom fuse block/distribution block, for the purpose of keep the wiring neat. I'm also angling the dash where the gauge cluster is forward. Instead of angling the gauges back and recessing into the dash. Its going to contour outward (pictures will explain more once my fiberglassing is finished) also I need to redo the light wiring for the head lights tail lights and high beams. Windshield wipers I did not think of and thank you for reminding me (facepalm) now I have to find a place to put that switch on the dash...

 

Also as far as things I've removed that you listed, I do not have a horn, a/c unit or heater, also am missing all my interior lights, the glove box light doesn't work, most if not all of the gauge lights don't funtion, and I also removed my headlights pull switch and replaced them with 2 toggle switches.

 

And the hole in the firewall will have a new plate welded on there which I will use to mount my 3 train horns...

 

@Andreas,

Thank you for the explanation, I have the steering wheel off guess I just got to dismantle more before I get to it. Ill try and do that today.

 

@Mo's70MC,

Trust me, its really not that much :-/ my engine bay literally has just the motor... No horn, no smog unit, no a/c unit, most of everything that isn't completely necessary has been removed already by the previous owner. So my main concerns are going to be the alternator, starter, and a few things in between.

 

@Black07ss,

Don't worry I planned on using the ash tray portion of the dash to house a few pairs of ear plugs :-P

 

@Mo's70MC Again,

I can't see the picture but here's a description of what's removed so far.

 

Dash, a/c, steering wheel, front and rear seats, back deck, carpet, headliner, and basically everything from the inside of the vehicle.

 

I'm taking this oppurtunity to redo the wiring, and sand/prime the inside of the car, then I'll add dynomat to the roof, floors, doors, back deck, and firewall.

 

Then ill be getting some black carpet from home depot to lay on the floor.

 

So far, that's what I have planned and will be doing all of that within the next 2 months. But as soon as I'm done with the dash I will be posting up pictures...

 

And I do have to thank you Andreas, your the motivation for everything that I'm doing from you LLC customs posting of that chevelle. God once I figured out how they did it all, my mind started cart wheeling!

[Carla's King]

A new update, I was reading up. On an rv forum and some guys made an electrical system much like I want in there rv. Using some of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC

 

There 12 circuit fuse blocks, and fortunately before finding out about them I had drawn a wiring diagram for a new fuse box that I'd be needing with 6 main lines and a total of 18 split lines.

 

For instance I'd have one main line for my seeing lights, and from there it would split into 3 other fuse lines the main line being the main fuse and the other 3 being backups.

 

Example.

 

First fuse distributes the 12v power to the other 3, forthis example let's say each of those 3 fuses are tied to 30 amp circuits I would install the 3 fuses with 30 amp fuses and the first line fuse would be a 90 amp fuse.

 

So in theory. That line when activated ( high beams are switched on which. Would supply current to my headlights ((inner lights on the chevelle head lights)) and high beams ((outer lights on the chevelle head lights)) and tail lights... Each requiring no more than 30 amps a piece. In the event that any of them attempt to draw significantly more amperage than what is needed or if they all begin. To draw more power in unison, I can save the lights and sacrifice the initial 90 amp fuse.

 

This is all theorizing of course. I don't think I'm an electrical prodigy or anything but I think that would work for my application or at least it would have but since I found that blue sea fuse box thing I think ill just integrate two of those little bastards up under my dash somewhere