ignition lock cylinder

[KnightTime007]

Joe,

I saw the groove on the flat tab and thought it might accept a snap ring, and the ring was missing when I opened it up. I have no lack of tools and fasteners on hand ... I was in the hardware business many years ago and can usually win a game of "name that fastener exactly".

I put the new sector gear and spring on just to see if the rod would travel through the positions, and it did as long as the sector gear is tight to the housing. Thanks for the time and effort you have spent helping me with my column repair, I really appreciate it. As I said, anything past pulling a steering wheel and replacing an ignition cylinder is virgin mechanical territory for me in a column. Nice trick with the 13mm socket, screw, washer, and nut for removing the pivot pins. Your instructions are consise and very helpful. I'm back at the work grindstone today (retirement is starting to become visible on the horizon) so it will be a few days before I can show Goldie any attention. I'll post my progress as it is attained.

 

Charlie

[KnightTime007]

I bet you are getting tired of me asking about steering column guts!

The socket with a screw, nut and washer worked really well, very nice no special tool tip. For some reason out of the billion screws ( ok a little stretching of reality) in my drawers, I didn't have a long enough screw to reach through the socket. So I stacked increasing larger washers on the 8/32 x 1" screw I did have until the last few washers had an inside diameter larger than the pivot pin head. They came out very easily.

 

Sorry to be a noob on the column repair ... Another question!

Is there a trick to sliding the housing off after the pins are removed?

 

I have no tilt steering ... the bottom of the housing is free and it pivots up at the top with pins removed. It's not just sliding off ... I've moved it up and down, in and out while in the up position. Thanks for your help...

 

Charlie

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

First ask as many questions as you wish. I just wish I was close enough to stop by and help you out.

Now, install your tilt lever into the shoe release lever and pull it toward you while tilting the bearing housing up. This will release the bearing housing from the bearing housing support. The lock shoes will slip out allowing the bearing housing to come off. The screws that will need to be tightend are in the bearing housing support directly under the bearing housing.

 

"""It will not come off without pulling the shoe release lever toward you.""""

 

Just one thing is still causing me to scratch my head. Are you saying you believe the column you’re working on is not a tilt column?

 

If that's what you're saying your incorrect on this point. It is a tilt column. Just want to confirm.

 

Try this and let us know what happens.

 

JC

[KnightTime007]

Joe,

It wouldn't be the first or last time I am wrong for sure! I do feel a little stupid not realizing the tilt rod must have been missing since I bought it! That would be why the non-tilt sector gear I bought from OPGI was wrong. I think I assumed it was non tilt steering because it only had a indicator and hazard switch protruding from the column and never looked for it. Honestly just thought that there would have been a third lever behind the indicator like my newer Chevy vehicles to lower and raise the wheel. I didn't remove a release tilt release lever and the pics show me no lever was in the column since I bought it. I took pics after every piece removed to aid me in reassembly. Looks like I will need to get a lever! I am enjoying learning about some things I didn't know ... Thanks for patience and assistance. It's one of my play cars so no pressure to get running on a timetable for transportation. The Exploded diagram I am using is all I have to reference part names and locations. It is very small and the page is a bit smeared with grease.

Thanks

Charlie

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

Well, finding out it's a tilt column is a bonus then. For the moment, you can use a long bolt that will thread into the shoe release lever. It's the raw steel piece that can be seen in your picture just above and to the rear of the ignition rack location. You can use the bolt for a release lever until you acquire one.

 

Also, if I use a part name you’re not sure of just let me know. I try to avoid using terms like “the little round thingy” or “doohicky” when possible.

 

You’re very close to reaching your objective so Monty on!

 

Let us know how you’re doing.

 

[KnightTime007]

Joe,

I was a good thing, but a little embarrasing to learn it was a tilt after 13 years of owning it! Tilts do seem desireable to a lot of folks, but I can't say I really use the tilt feature in any of my vehicles very often. Occasionally I might during a long Interstate trip to drop the wheel down near my thigh to rest my hand on my leg. The Monte never gets to ride on Interstate, just on the local highways.

 

Just to feel even a little more dumb, I pulled my laminated built sheet out of my Monte folder and guess what it says??? ..... Tilt Steering ..... duuuuhhhh

 

Well, finally success! I got a 4" bolt threaded into the tilt mechanism and was able to remove the housing. All 4 Torx screws are very loose and I will be snugging them up with some thread locker this weekend.

 

I really appreciate your help with this repair, I doubt I would have figured it all out past the lock cylinder without breaking several things in the process (both accidently and intentionaly). It was more involved than I thought it would be, but when it's your first time doing something I guess it seems more difficult.

 

I just replaced the ignition switch harness in my Chevy truck steering column w/Air Bag after many months of troubleshooting a very intermittent but critical electrical problem. The engine would just randomly, immediately, and abrubtly die, quite dangerous to drive really. It might happen once a month, maybe 3 times a day, no regularity. It would throw no computer codes and would start back up 3 minutes later like nothing ever happened. After lots of tests and ground checking (seems like grounds are the soultion to many electrical problems I've experienced), several Chevy Truck forum discussions led me replace the ignition switch harness. Bingo ... it's ran great since.

 

Now that the column it all opened up, is there anything you recommend I do regarding preventative maintenance or parts replacement besides lubrication? I'd rather button this column up for a few years at least.

 

Next up after some needed repairs on our daily drivers ... a cooked starting system from reversed jumper cables.

 

I have too many cars!

 

Thanks,

Charlie

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

I'm glad you got the bearing housing off. The first time you're in there it can be a little unnerving because there is so many parts but once you get over that it's not that bad.

When I have them apart, I re-grease everything that moves. Just a little on the tilt joint and all the bearings, and the lock shoes etc. will do it. Use grease that will handle the heat of the cabin. Otherwise it will tend to drip out on a very hot day. I use a Valvoline Synthetic grease p/n 986 but I'm sure there are others that would work just as good.

 

I'm currently replacing the intake manifold tuning valve on my neighbor's 2006 Impala. I'd rather be doing the job you're working on. Working on the steering column offers many benefits. You don't get dirty, you don't have to bend over, and you can sit on your behind. Now that's what I call a good job. LOL

 

I understand about intermittent problems. They can drive you crazy. I have a little Dodge Dakota that idles where ever it wants. Anywhere from 600 to 1100 RPMs and there is no rhyme or reason as to when it idles fast or slow. I still haven't figured it out yet.

 

Once you start putting your column back together drop me a note if you get into trouble.

[KnightTime007]

Joe,

I'll let you know if I have any problems reassembling the column. I bought a new ignition switch and cylinder at the beginning of the column repair, I thought both were suspect. I think I'll return the switch as the original tested good after I removed it from the column. The cylinder was definetly worn out and the original I suspect.

 

I know firsthand the IMT Valve pain as I have 2006 Impala with a 3.9L. It kept setting a P2070 code and I had to replace the valve ... stuck open right? It's only about a $100 part, but $500 worth of back pain. You are absolutely right ... sitting in the drivers seat working on the column is as nice as any physical position gets doing automotive repair. Good luck with the Impala!

 

Charlie

 

[Toppless72]

Yep, P2070 IMT valve "stuck open". I found the part at a GM parts warehouse for $71.00. I guess I'll be tearing off the power steering pump to get to the valve Saturday morning.

 

Later,

 

JC

[KnightTime007]

JC,

Indeed the power steering pump on the Impala has to come out, but its all fairly accessible. Nothing like working on a Nissan ... they are the worst vehicles to service IMO, just awful design! After I replaced the IMT Valve and reset the computer, It started throwing a P0442 code a few days later. Maybe I nicked a fuel evaporation line or perhaps pure coincidence. I don't have a smoke machine so it's just going to live that way for a while ... It still runs great.

 

I finally had a few minutes to work on the Monte column this evening. The two top torx screws were completely backed out, just plucked them with a needle nose. The bottom two were about 4 or 5 turns from falling out too. The nuckle was as dry as a bone. I took pictures as I took each piece out so I hope that will assist my reassembly. Thats quite a few parts! Again thanks for the help.

Charlie

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

Never did the '06 Impala job. Once I cleared the code which turned the MIL off he said, "Well, It looks like you fixed it". I told him it would most likely come back on but he's put about 300 miles on it since then and no light so far. I guess we'll see.

 

It takes a special socket to tighten those bearing housing support screws. You can buy one or do as I did and modify one to fit with a grinder. Your other option is to use a quarter inch drive/6MM socket. It also works well.

 

Good luck and let us know how your doing.

 

JC

[KnightTime007]

I had an about an hour this evening to start reassembling the column and had a small problem arise. I will try to use the correct parts names as my little exploded diagram labels them but they are visually small. I cleaned everything accessible and greased every moving part with synthetic high temp lithium grease.

 

New parts are sector gear, ignition switch rack, sector spring, ignition switch and ignition cylinder.

 

I thread locked and tightened the 4 bearing housing support screws, mounted the housing with the tilt lever assist, installed spring lever tilt guide and retainer, lock shoe pin, ignition switch rack to the rod, the bearing housing pivot pins, sector gear on the lock shoe with the spring, Everything seems right and tight to this point. The sector rod an sector gear operates rod freely with the ignition switch removed. I had to replace the ignition switch because it was not moving freely as the switch rod connection hole has elongated and cracked binding the action. I replaced the ignition switch and now I am a little stuck. I am having problems determining the correct position of the switch ( 3 clicks and the start position spring back) and the sector gear relative positions to provide correct travel for the cylinder.

 

Sorry if I misused part names ... I'm a column noob.

 

Are there any tips you can offer on aligning the switch and gear to provide correct cylinder position and function?

 

Thanks

Charlie

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

It sounds like you're becoming a first class column expert. LOL

 

The switch provides all the detent positioning for the ignition rod and rack movement. Therefore, the only position that's critical at the lock cylinder is the lock position. This is so you can get the key out.

 

Place the switch in the second detent position opposite of the start position. Place the lock cylinder in the lock position. Mount the switch to the column and leave the bolts for it loose so that it will slide up and down as you rotate the lock cylinder. Center the lock cylinder in the lock position.

 

Tighten the bolts to the switch until they hold the switch in place. Rotate the key to the start position to insure you are reaching the spring back point. Rotate the key back to the lock position. Press in slightly and turn it to the accessory position. Make fine tune adjustments with the switch until all positions are reached.

 

Adjusting the switch is one of the last parts of the operation so you'll need to be at a point where you can hook up the battery power to insure you're making contact with the starting circuit when you're adjusting the position of the switch.

 

JC

[KnightTime007]

Column expert? I don't think I have even graduated from rookie to novice yet! Computer expert I will accept after 31 years in the field, but I'm surely a column rookie. I didn't think I would be spending this much time in the column ... perhaps an hour or so replacing the cylinder. Not even close! I've replaced a front end in less time. But good stuff to learn though but it can be a bit frustrating at times.

 

I am fighting getting the upper bowl back on the column, just like it fought me being removed. I have it lined up with the steering wheel locking pin just starting into the bore. I tried with a small punch and gave it a few gentle taps. How does the pin head clear the top of the sector gear? I see the pin is flat along the shaft but nearly round at the tip. I'm sure I am doing something stupid as I just finished a 11 hour network problem fix at work and I am brain fried. Also the small sector gear spring tip goes into that bore hole too? My pictures of disassembly are not useful as I had hoped!

 

Thanks JC the column expert!

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

If I understand your description, unfortunately, you've gotten a little ahead of yourself.

Once you get the bearing housing on and the pivot pins installed your now ready to install the locking pin, locking pin spring, ignition rack, sector gear, and sector gear snap ring. All of these go on before you install the turn signal housing (What I call the upper bowl).

 

Slide the locking pin into its bore with the flat side facing down.

Slide the sector gear onto the lock cylinder rod lining it up with the ignition rack.

Insure the rotation will align the large tooth on the gear with the proper position on the rack.

Install the snap ring.

Loop the hook of the lock rod spring into the groove at the lower end of the lock rod.

Rotate the lock rod spring's long end to the rest position and install the screw to hold it in place. (Take care to insure the loop of the spring that extends into the sector gear is in the proper position.)

Rotating the lock cylinder rod to the run position will withdraw the lock pin into the bearing housing to its shortest position.

Align the upper bowl over the bearing housing and start pushing it down.

Assure the lock pin is entering its bore as you slide it down.

Once it's seated you can install the 3 screws.

 

Try that and let us know how you're doing.

 

JC

 

[KnightTime007]

JC,

 

Again thanks for help and detailed description, you write better procedural instructions than most professional pubs.

 

I apologize for the previous poor post. I should have decompressed from a stressful work day for an hour or so before getting into the repair and definitely before posting.

 

Here is what I did this evening before my brain cooked post:

 

Installed bearing housing

 

Installed the pivot pins (surprised they were just friction fitted)

 

Installed the lock pin assembly

 

Installed the sector gear onto the lock cylinder rod (the large tooth on the gear is in the large groove of the ignition rack)

 

Tried to install a snap ring on the lock cylinder rod to retain the sector gear, but 3/16" ring was too small and a 1/4" ring was sloppy. Calipers measure the groove at 7/32" and don't have one that size yet.

 

Tried to install the (sector gear spring ?). The top end of the spring that extends up toward the sector gear has two "tips". One tip with the bent loop slid into the sector gear top groove. The other tip is a single open loop and my camera showed it was in the bore of the lock pin when I disassembled it.

 

When i attempted to rotate the lock cylinder rod to the run position it wouldn't withdraw the lock pin into the bearing housing to its shortest position. I think I have something misaligned with the gear, rack and switch.

 

When I aligned the upper bowl over the bearing housing and started pushing down it will not slide down even applying moderate force. The upper bowl was a fight to remove originally also. I am sure the lock pin is aligned with its bore as try to slide it down.

 

I'll try to take it apart and start over tomorrow!

 

Thanks

Charlie

[Toppless72]

Charlie,

 

Here are some tips that may help.

 

Before installing it, take the locking pin and slide it into its bore in the upper bowl. Make sure it slides smoothly and does not bind at all. It should slide all the way through in both directions without any rough spots. Smooth out any rough spots using emery cloth or sandpaper on the pin and in the bore.

 

Once the locking pin is in its bore in the bearing housing, hold the locking pin spring nearly upside down hook it around the pin in the groove and rotate it down capturing the sector gear with the spring loop. Then, continue to bring it down to its rest position where you can install the screw.

 

Next, be sure to put some grease in the locking pin bore before you assemble the upper bowl.

If you're still having trouble fitting the upper bowl try installing it without the locking pin to see if it's binding elsewhere. Correct any other causes preventing the bowl to seat properly.

 

Now, work instructions... When I was a senior manager of manufacturing for an OEM automotive supplier, one of my responsibilities was to approve every work instruction placed on the manufacturing floor. My directive to my manufacturing management team was that, when writing a work instruction, anyone should be able to take that instruction sheet and perform the task it outlines. That led to me editing many of them and rewriting more than a few.

 

Get back to us and let us know how it’s going.

 

JC

[Leghome]

Engineers and instruction writers should be made to work on the things they are designing or writing instructions for then maybe some of these edumacated idiots would know how to design and do instructions for what they are working on. Of course if they are in India or China they may not understand ENGLISH all that well..

[KnightTime007]

I so agree! (M)academia Nuts is my favorite name for them!

I have done my share of college and other schooling, but I'm a regular guy with lazy New Awlins accent and speech. In my IT career I have worked and with many flavors of instructional authors and curriculum developers for various purposes. Most have multiple college degrees in areas of Instructional Design. They can communicate well with other academia nuts with their special edumucated vernacular and cute acronyms, but cannot put simple and concise words together on a page. Known your target audience geeks! It's not another guy with 3 degrees ... It's the rest of us.

 

Reading a English software manual or instructions written by Chinese folks using Google Translate is almost comical. Don't get me started!

 

I need to go get working on my Monte but its already soooo hot outside.

[KnightTime007]

JC,

 

I have spent some time on the column this weekend, but I am still fighting with it a bit. The heat makes it miserable working outside right now but this is Florida, what can I expect? Good thing I am not getting paid by the hour for this repair or I would be receiving a few Pennies per hour. The upper bowl just doesn't like me, but I am not giving up ... I will get it reassembled and functioning correctly eventually! I have formed the opinion that column work can be a PITA.

 

My offer always stands concerning the Wipers documentation.

 

Charlie