Marks71

I’d go down that!

Just wondering if the main goal is to have a convertible and you just happen to have an SS you’re willing to convert, or does it matter if it’s an SS convertible or not. Because if it’s the latter, then I think I’d go with Aaron’s find, and sell the SS and the parts car to help pay for it. After all once the SS has been cut up its value as an SS would be almost meaningless. But as others have said, it’s your choice.

My comment was based on giving the seller the benefit of the doubt and assuming all the parts are there. I’m more concerned with the rust and bubbling under the vinyl top being the tip of the iceberg, based on the conditions it’s being stored. Outside or possibly that tent/garage.

Looks to me like it needs a lot more than just being “put together”.

Like so many cool things that have gone away, they’re probably a liability now.

Just received my Hemmings Muscle Machines along with a letter stating that it will be consolodated into Hemmings Motor News. It states this is due to significant inflation related to production costs, changes in advertiser demand and newsstand supply- chain struggles. At the same time consumer preferences continue to evolve, with the rapid growth of digital and social media. The February 2025 issue will be the last. I’ve been a subscriber for 18 of its 20 year run. I’m also a subscriber to the Motor News. Only 2 mags I subscribe to. No longer subscribe to Hot Rod Quaterly, as I refer to it now. I’ll take print over digital any day, but things seem to be rapidly changing in the print world, and in my opinion, not for the better. We’ll see if it gets even smaller than it already is(down to 72 pages now). Maybe it’s come down to “The Times They are a Changin”

Same for paint also.

Here in California, you can’t self checkout alcohol without getting someone to check ID.

One of my early experiences with the self checkout was at a Home Depot. Instead of getting $7 in change, I got $25. I told one of the employees who immediately called the manger. I watched as they took the machine apart. Apparently whoever loaded the money for change, loaded 10s in the dollar slot. They took my $20 and gave me 2 without as much as a thank you.

Real, but for the last 15 years we’ve been saying next year it’ll be a fake one. Now with real in the $130 range, we’re closer than ever to fake. Although for what nice fakes are going for it’ll probably be 3 years before it’s paid for itself in savings. Then it’s home free.

If it were me, I’d take your mechanics advise. If you’re running a stock 350 then any gains you might get with headers would be negligible. Granted, when you open the hood, stock exhaust manifolds don’t have the cool factor that headers do, but I think the dual exhaust with a cross over or X pipe is all you need. A good set of headers can hit the wallet pretty hard too.

10 dollars in 1975 is probably what those 2 sandwiches would cost.

The plates look brand new. The rear plate should have a registration expiration date in the form of a month sticker in the upper left corner and a year sticker in the upper right. Anyone that has a home in California and another in a different state usually uses the other state to license. Registration in California can be stupid expensive.

I see a sliver of the right fender in the photo of Kermit the VW. Also in photo #8 wayyyy in the distance. Looked like a nice gathering.

Without having a junk insert to practice with, I wouldn’t do it. Plus, with what Dennis said, the prep alone is guaranteed to remove the white lettering.

I agree, also the paint on the right front fender doesn’t match the door. The mismatched paint on the body panels is also mentioned in the description. They used a gloss clear instead of satin in the trunk.

The reason I brought it up is because the description says vinyl top. That roof definitely needs repainting then. Does anyone remember the imitation spray on vinyl tops? You got 2 strips that mimicked the seams that glued to the top. Then the roof was sprayed with a crinkle paint. As for the moldings, that’s what I used to protect the paint on the inside edges of the bed rails and along the front rail on my 84 GMC truck. Much easier to replace the vinyl strip than touch up the paint

I’m trying to figure out that vinyl top. It looks like a smooth material without any seams, It’s got too much shine. Or it could be some kind of paint with some texture to it, because the seams where the quarters and the deck behind the rear glass meet are visible. That being said, it looks like a nice car to start with. Too bad about those side moldings.

Unfortunately, education and common sense don’t go hand in hand.

It would seem to me that if the lights can be seen illuminating from the back of the dash, then one of the issues could be with the new OPGI housing. Do you still have the old one to compare with? I realize that this means pulling the gauge cluster back out 🤮, but I can’t think of another alternative.

Just look at all the cords on Jay Lenos garage floor. You know what they’re for.

I’m a firm believer in battery tenders for anything not used regularly. Camaro battery 9 1/2 years, Highlander, 10, lawn tractor, 5, GMC 5, Buick, 7. Have one on my Christmas gift exchange wish list for the Monte.

I did that once. Great getting all those tapes at one time. But by the time I completed my part of the agreement, it would have been cheaper to just buy all the tapes. As for vinyl, that’s my thing. I’ve got more $ in my system than I want to admit. I mostly listen when no one’s home to tell me to turn it down.

That counts as “learning something new every day” on this club’s website for me.

Probably impossible to forge though.