Malyc

When I looked underneath, there was coolant all along the underside of the box, with some looking like it came from the vent. I'll take a crack at it this weekend, but are all the nuts/bolts holding it to the firewall accessible from inside the car, or will I have to unbolt it from the engine side?

Sorry to necro this thread after 2 years, but my '72 started leaking coolant down over my feet when I'm driving, and it appears to be coming from the lower vent. It's a factory AC car, but the old AC condenser is no longer in the vehicle, and I was wondering if the heater core was the only thing back in there that could be leaking, or if there were other possible culprits. Also, how much of a bugger is it to get the box out from under the dash?

Thanks much!

I have a column shifted th350 in my monte, and the gear selection is being wonky. I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be a bracket or something that bolts to the driver's side frame rail to hold it in place, but I can't figure out [censored] it's called or where I can buy it from. Any hints?

RPO codes for the trans in the truck are m20 and mm4, if that changes things.

A co-worker is buying an '89 Chevy one ton to swap the engine into his '86, and it's got a 4 speed manual. Near as I can figure it's an SM465, and I was wondering if that'd fit in the monte, and how much of what's on the truck I could use.

Personally, I'm jumping on board the small block bandwagon... Parts are everywhere for them, and usually fairly inexpensive, you get better mileage, and if you put a decent set of heads, a good intake and a cam in there, you'll make pretty decent power out of it. Now if only I could keep the dang thing on the road for longer than 2 months out of a season

Had it dyno'd on Saturday, made 274 hp and 329 ft/lbs of torque peak over 5 runs. Engine is consistent, though I'm wondering if there being only 3 hp difference and 5 torqu from high to low was because of too small a carb... Or something in the driveline deciding to crap out on me. Hope it's just the torque converter, but if it ain't... Anybody got a 4 speed swap kit?

New meats! 255/50R17 Nitto NT555 on 17x8 wheels! Really need to put the power steering back in though, its hard to turn without that pump. Pic isn't uploading from phone, though, so I'll edit when I get home.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find them, or I'd have asked and told them about it. Very nice looking car though

Made it to the Hammond Days car show after she finally stopped giving me grief for the moment. Nice '70 down the way from me too!

She's alive!!!

Welp, late start is better than never... Pulled the motor this weekend, figured out that my headers were pushed up tight against the starter which was probably causing it to fall out of alignment. While it was out, put new cam, vortec heads and intake manifold on there, as well as the black proform dressup kit on there. Unfortunately ran out of time so didn't get to run it, but its back in the car!

As far as I know, it's all stock... The guy I bought it from didn't know a whole lot about what had been done to the car, so I was unable to get much info. I'm assuming it's original because the passenger side sits an inch or two higher than the drivers side, probably from the torque collapsing that spring over the last 40 or so years.

Have you tried turning the phone the other way to take pictures? (Sorry, not meaning to make it sound like it sounds, but idk how to make it sound different.) I just know that sometimes phones can be sensitive about that kind of thing.

As far as I know, putting in a Posi would just require replacing the open carrier with a posi carrier. As for gears, I'd think something up to like a 3.55 gear would be alright on the street, though since I'm going to be doing my first gear swap coming up here, I couldn't say for sure how much of a difference that would make. Also, this is all based on what I know about my 10 bolt rear, sooooo it may be quite different with a 12 bolt. But, what I know is what I know until I know more

My personal taste is don't go any bigger than a 17" or 18", just because this era of car looks a lot better with a lot of rubber around the wheel. However, in the interest of helping you out, how wide are the wheels going to be? That's going to be key in figuring out what kind of BS you need. Also, are you going to want the wheels tucked up under the fenders, or is the car going to sit high enough that the tires'll clear?

Ordered up the last few parts I need to get the engine together. Soon!

295s will be 20mm wider than a 275, or around 5/8", give or take a bit. Tire size is width in mm/sidewall height in percentage of tread width R (radial) or D (bias) and wheel diameter in inches for metric sizing, or diameter in inches x width in inches R (or D) rim diameter in inches. So, a 31x10.50R15 is 31 inches in diameter, 10.5 inches wide on a 15" wheel, and a 295/50R15 is 295mm wide with a sidewall height of 147.5mm on a 15" wheel.

http://westerndiff.com/wordpress/ Try these guys, they helped me get a 3 series carrier for my 10 bolt, very friendly and good service. I'm not sure if they have carriers for the 12, but I'd imagine they would. They ship too!

Another vote for 255/60R15s here, they look natural on the car and it rides pretty nice with them on it. I'll be going 17x8 w/ a 4.5-5" backspace with 255/45R17 Nitto NT555 when I get my suspension done,

Price difference alone, it's looking like the Vikings are the way to go, at least for now... The price of the front end kit is the same as a single QA1 coilover...

If you decide on the 7" wheels, I'll take the 8" wheels off your hands... I need at least two for the rear to put the tire size I want on there.

Okay, so beefier control arms will be needed... Gotcha. This is gonna wind up costing more than the car did >.<

Anyone tried these? Considering getting them for mine since the suspension is worn, and was looking to upgrade to coil-overs. If anyone has, how do they handle? What spring rates would you recommend front and rear? How was the install?