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Mikstudie

(Non-dues paying)
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Everything posted by Mikstudie

  1. A little trick I leand from an old pro.I would fill my motor with oil and before starting i fashioned a long old screw driver blade to fit into my power drill and before installing the distributor I would spin the oil pump gear to get oil to the top of motor.(works great) This would also work with your break in oil. Mike
  2. Sam,very,very impressive.And look mom no grease!! Mike
  3. That would look good!!I just think don't spend too much money on them unless you were going to show the car,ya know what i mean.I know what it's like fixing up a car you want to pay alot of attention to detail and thats ok too.What ever you decide I'am sure you will do an awsome job,thats just the way you do things. Mike
  4. Sam,save the money,you can't really see them anyway.Paint them black and spray with a clear coat to protect them,they will look fine. Mike
  5. I have the same shifter and have had that same problem for 10 years,a little hard to get in reverse.(rock crusher trans)Tried everything can't figure it out let me know if you fix your's. Mike
  6. Mabey a local trans shop,sometimes mechanic's have that stuff laying around in there tool box's Mike
  7. My springs have been in my car for 15 years,hasn't droped a bit. Bruce ,your car sits very nice,i like it,looks good too!!! Mike
  8. John,I don't think you can tell by just looking at them.If your lucky they may still have a tag wrapped around the coil.There were many different coils from the factory. But in the aftermarket only four that i know of,as Sam has explained. My opinion, go MOOG.and go big block! My small block with bb/ac front coils!Gives you an idea how it will sit! Mike
  9. You really need to look hard becuse as Rod said they crack beetween the bolt holes and are very fine hairline cracks. Iv'e pulled flex plates that were cracked around all 5 holes,it's not that uncommon!Address one problem at a time,it's usally the best way!I hate to say it but i think you have more than one problem. Mike
  10. Like Sam said wind it up. Some of them go some of them blow!!
  11. If it's a rythmic high pitch squeek,when under load,most likly u-joints Mike
  12. dark night,take Don's advice he's a motor guru!!! He may have wrote some of those articles your reading! Mike
  13. I agree with Robyn, I have a mild sm block, i had a spacer (open) and i was not happy on the low end. mine is a street car so you don't get to use the high end very often. Mike
  14. I don't have too much problem with the firewall. Except when I pulled the trans and the motor tilted back(CRUNCH). But I did have to try a couple different air cleaners. Mike
  15. Riznitch,Yes of course it's a completely different dist. You can't just change the cap,rotor,ect... Mike
  16. I would say about a 3. I installed an HEI dist. and the hardest part was getting the old dist. out. Put motor at TDC, drop dist. in with rotor pointing at #1. Connect a 12 volt key on batt source. DONE!! The new cap also has a tach side to connect your tach to.It made a hugh difference.You'll need a new set of 8mm plug wires. Mike
  17. I own a shop in Michigan and most shops frown on customers bringing in there own parts. I do on occasion install customer parts, but I will not warranty repairs.I'ts kinda like taking your own eggs to the resturant and asking them to cook them!Save your money, get a good rebuild with a warranty. You'll be a lot happier in the long run.Just my opinion from past experience! Mike
  18. Carl, gates part #20676 upper-#20677 lower both big and small block take same part numbers.The figures wallaby gave you are correct. the rads are different in that 350 is 2core 454 is 3 core. FGMCC RULES
  19. ALEX IS RIGHT M&H HAS GOOD STUFF I HAVE USED THEM MYSELF NO PROBLEMS
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