680HPStroker

2,200 is probably good, but the only way to know for sure is to call a converter manufacture and ask them. If they don't ask you all the specifics about your setup with your car, thank them hang up, and call someone else. Coan, Yank, and Midwest are all good sources for a quality torque converter.

You get what you pay for. All I can say is that my Be Cool 3 core radiator with duel 2160 CFM Flex-a-lite fans have kept my 650HP beast at no more than 190 degrees no matter how hot the weather and no matter how long I sit in traffic. I believe both Jeg's and Summit carry the Be Cool brand.

You could restore your gas tank, but if it's in bad shape why not just replace it. There are a few companies that still make original style gas tanks for a FGMC. As far as your carb goes let me just say this, I have a Holley 170gph mechanical pump with and AED 1050 Pro-Street Dominator carb and have never ran out of fuel no matter how hard I hit it. The carb for you is as Mike says you need to give more data, but the best thing to do is to talk to a carb builder at a custom shop to have one built for your application. Even a carb like that will need a little tweaking out of the box, but it will be so close that you will spend very little time tuning it. My AED was built just for me and it was very close right out of the box. If you have a street car that might see the occasional run down the strip on a test and tune night you will more than likely end up with an 850, or possibly a mild 950 carb. Don't forget about your air cleaner as CFM airflow will be hurt by a run of the mill chrome air cleaner. I recommend a K&N air cleaner assembly that clears your hood(may need a drop base style) with an Extreme open element lid. More airflow than you will ever need.

If the face hardening is the deal and that is where the noise comes from then I must have the 8620 gears in a series 4 style because mine doesn't make the kind of noise Andy is talking about. Davey couldn't you make a 4.11 series four pro gear work? I have the same steel cap you have from Tom. I bought basically my whole rearend from him minus the housing. I have one of his custom Eaton carriers as well. I'm sure it's all overkill for what I use my car for, but as stated before I planned on doing some racing, but lack of funds for replacement parts precludes that for now. Hey dog food is just like anything else in that you get used to it and after a while you may find that you actually like it.

Thinking back to when I bought my axles and gears I bought them from an outfit called Tom's Differentials. When they arrived even though the axles were stamped with the Tom's Differentials logo on the ends they along with gears were in boxes from US Gear. Both the 33 spline axles and the 4.11 gears are suppossed to be hardcore 12 bolt racing stuff. I looked at their website and US Gear is available in 3.73 in both series three and four. I don't know the difference between 8620 and 9310, but I'm guessing it has to do with the alloy stength. If so and the 9310's are sronger they don't come in 3.73 for eith series carrier. They start at 4.11 and go up from there.

With what you have if you are trying to hook up on the street you can forget it. You will always go up in smoke. On the strreet all you will do to a set of drag radials is chew them up. As stated if you really want a street/strip car you have to compromise and street traction for a well built BB will always lose off the line. I don't even try to hit my tires hard from a light, but let me hit them at a 40mph roll and I'm gone even with tire spin. I say just cruise on the street with regular tires and put your slicks on for track days.

Bummer dude. Who makes Pro Gears? What ratio are you running? If it's lower than 3.73 you are probably right that unless you switch to a 9" Ford your gonna break series three carriers/gears. Until you are ready maybe build up another 12 bolt that you can just swap in when the other blows up. I'd hate to see you let up on the launch it's a beautiful thing to watch.

Davey I talked to Scott today. He is a really good guy. He gave it to me straight and didn't try and sell me on something i didn't need. He gave me both good news and bad news. The bad is my top end is too big for the size of my engine and the car it sets in, but when I go to rebuild it he gave me a wealth of info that will make my engine perform much better both on the street and should I choose to at the track. Looks like I'll be selling my whole top end as a package and going with a set of AFR BBC 290 full CNC ported heads, Victor Jr intake, 4150 style carb, and a cam designed by Chris. I just wonder how much I can get for the top end package for. Scott states it would be awesome for a guy with a lighter car who spins 7,000rpm's. The dreaming begins.

Davey you make me sick. Just kiddin. Looks your Velle is hooking really well. AWESOME!!! Just keep hitting your marks and you will surely be in both the money and the trophies at the end of the season.

If the pickup in Andy's picture is 1/2" it's the ticket along with 1/2 line all the way to your regulator. I sent my stock pickup out to be re-tubed to 1/2", but for the life of me can't remember who did it(would need to dig out receipt). I also believe in overkill and the do it once and be done with it theory.

If you buy a new shortblock it will have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. As already stated it's a roller block. It needs to stay as such, or money will go down the drain. There are two versions of the 454 block. One can be bored over and the other can't, or at least that's how it was six years ago.

If you can get in the 9's with a hydraulic roller I say leave it alone. Adjusting valves at all sucks and especially at the track. I was wondering if you would be willing to put me in touch with Scott Foxwell? I'd be curious if there is anything that he could do to my heads to squeeze out some more power both now and limit my power losses when I go back to a hydraulic roller that is more street friendly with a smaller carb. I wish you all the best in Vegas. You really make me want to make at least one pass just to know. I'd need to pick up some cheap wheels and some 28x9x15 slicks to do the job. My dyno guy still wants me to spray my engine with a progressive 300 shot. He believes I can run mid to high 9's all day. That would be great if he was willing to replace the parts that are going to break. Alas I have champagne tastes on a beer budget.

Hey Davey, Well to start you are a whole point higher in compression than me and you have 20 more cubes than I do. It also sounds like buying the as cast 305 heads and having a guru port/polish them doing his magic is a better wat to go than buying the the 315CNC ported version that I have. You make me want to bump up the compression and have someone who is in the know trick my heads out and see what I can come up with, but since I'm not going racing anymore I have to stick with what I have and tone my mill down some time later on to make it more of a street car and less of a drag car. Once again, awesome numbers. If you get this beast to hook up no one will ever be able to wipe the grin off your face.

It's all in how discriminating you ear is, but it has been proven that compressed media will never have the same audio quality as regular compact disk audio. Once again it all depends on your ear. Most folks either can't hear the difference, or just don't care as portable media is now all the rave. Just food for thought.

In the end either the 200, or 700 will get the job done, but stock for either will be nothing more than a grenade waiting to blow. Stock both transmissions are weak and can't take any power over what they were originally built for which wasn't much. If you don't have a local shop who has extensive experience with building performance versions of either transmissions go with a reputable builder like Bowtie Overdrives, Gearstar, or P.A.T.C. Your tranny builder is your best source for choosing the best torque converter for your application. As far as a 700R4 goes you can close up a good amount of the 1-2 gear split with tranny tuning. I know this as I owned one.

Cam company + tech line(real car guy not a kid reading off a product sheet)+ your car setup + your performance goals = getting it right the first time.

Call me crazy, but having been there done that if you are rebuilding a 350 and you are looking for really good street performance if you don't turn it into a stroker motor you are just pissing your money away. With the direction your going it won't cost you much more than you would spend on a nice 355 mil. 383's yield big block, stump pulling, torque that you need to get that heavy beast of a car moving. JMHO. It's your car build it the way YOU want it. Not what us desktop experts think you should.

Holy Moly Batman, Davey's got a real monster on his hands! How many cubes did you say you have? It must be either cubes, or the bump in compression over mine that puts you a 100hp over me, or just a better built mill. Congrats and I hope once installed the whole car is everything YOU envisioned it to be.

Rear- 275/60/15 with an 8" wheel with 5" of backspacing with no frame/wheel well mods. If you want bigger get ready to cut and burn.

Not intending to hyjack a post here, but I've asked both NGK and MSD as to what the glug gap should be on a BB. NGK says .035" and MSD says .045". Two of the most respected local engine shops who build everything from a little bump over stock to 8 second door slammer engines say there is no measureable power difference between .035" and .045". This has baffled me for a couple years now as with my setup I trash a set of plugs every year with all street driving. My dyno guy wants to try and tune my AED Pro-Street 1050 Dominator's intermediate circuit to try and lean out the cruising fuel curve as I foul out a set of plugs every year.

Strokers rock! Once you have been stroked you will never go back to stock size.

#8 is an issue with any big tube header even with a firewall blank off plate and steering shaft on the drivers side will most likely be an issue as you usually have to dimple on of the primary tubes with conventional 2", or bigger headers(referring to Hooker).

15 X 8" wheels with 5" of backspacing and 275/60/15 tires are as big as you can go without some sort of modification of the wheel well. Many have tried bigger combinations without the mods and all have failed.

Having had two 700R4 trannies in my 72 I'm with Mike57 on this one. If money is no option go with the 4L80 with the stand alone controller and a hardened input shaft. Once I got to over 500HP at the wheels my 700R4 with the strongest parts money can buy even after 40 chassis dyno thrashings started to make me nervous and I switched to a turbo 400. A gear Vendors is next and last thing I'll ever do to improve the drivability of my car in it's current configuration. Down the road my engine is going back to close to it's original bulld as just a good power street mill and when that happens if I don't already have a Gear Vendors OD I'll install a 4L80 tranny. Hope that helps.

Yea what speedfreak71 said. For strength and durability with a big block don't skimp on the valve train even if all you are doing is banging it on the street. Go roller and make sure you buy a cam kit that includes the matched valve springs. Folks will say you don't need titanium retainers, but thats their opinion even if I disagree as it's all about building an engine once the right way for a long life of abuse no matter what type. Your cam profile needs to be specific to your application. Most of the time when you just choose an off the shelf cam you leave power on the table that means you wasted money. I'd also invest in a good set of forged rods(4340) and pistons. I'm partial to forged cranks as well, but for a street engine a stock crank should be fine. If you go roller as was stated make sure you get a good set of hardened pushrods with the correct length for your application. There are lots of variables to consider building a first quality engine. I'm an overkill guy. I'd rather wait until I can afford the best parts rather than skimp and use inferior stuff just to get a car on the road only to have it have issues down the road at the most inopportune time. Good luck to you and remember it's a labor of love, not a popularity contest. It's for you and no one else.