DavidTX

It probably would benefit from a treatment of Sea Foam. It is available at all repair part sales and at Walmart.

I also use the Star Tron and am extremely pleased with it. If you buy the StarTron in the automotive section it is much more expensive. You need to find it in the Marine section for about $9.00 to treat about 120 gallons of gas.

E-15 is worse on Marine engines and small 2 cycle (weed eaters) etc.

My 71 was factory green and the seatbelts were Black. Good luck finding some, might be best to dye them.

Thomas, I do understand people wanting to keep a car as 'Original Equiptment" as possible. I would do this also to a car that is fully restored and driven minimally. I drive my 71 quite a bit and at more than city speed limits. I am concerned about not only my safety but that of my passengers so that is why I went with the 3 way retractable seat belts. It can prevent serious injury or worse and I consider it to be cheap insurance. Just something for you to think about.

Sea Foam works great but it is a temporary fix. Hopefully it is just a valve seal that needs replacing. That is the easiest and cheapest to fix. You need to troubleshoot to find out what is causing that one cylinder to foul the plug.

What works better for me is initially to take a pair of needle-nosed pliers to move the shaft up enough where I can get my finger under the rod to fully push it all the way in. The easy trick is to take a hacksaw blade and hold the shaft up where your finger was and you can easily install the pump that way.

There is this one:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/700R4-Forth-Gear-Torque-Converter-Lock-Up-Switch-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2098e78e89QQitemZ140004265609QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories and several others listed on ebay. This particular one is what I have installed on mine. The other vacuum type is what I had installed on another car and I actually prefer the vacuum type. It is also wired into the brake switch and disengages anytime you put on your brakes.

I have installed an electric vacuum pump and that doesn't seem to make any difference. Cannot lock up the brakes during an emergency stop. That can be very dangerous.

I have been having the same problem but have been unable to even locate a Master Cylinder with a 1" bore that is compatible with front disc brakes. Can you or anyone enlighten us on what application will work with either 1" or 7/8" bore?

I wasn't sure about what was correct for my engine so I called MSD. They told me that their distributor comes with a melonized gear attached.

A trick I learned with the speedo cable car is to get a wooden paint stirrer. Cut out a half circle at the bottom of the stick and it works great to push the cable back onto the speedometer. Don't remember if the clips holding it on are pointed up or down. If up you could use it to release the cable also.

How long does it take you to drop the steering wheel (two screws, one bolt and disconnect the string for the shift indicator), 4 more screws for the AC vents, disconnecting the speedometer cable, 7 bolts holding in the dash, and best to remove the radio (two nuts, one bolt and disconnect wires). You do have several wire connectors to disconnect. I can do that definately in an hour and probably 30 minutes.

It would be a good idea to replace seals, gaskets etc. such as http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?Prodcode=CH17468&grpcode=6574&topcatid=147 I am sure they are available elsewhere also. I was surprised as my all brass heater core was less than $30.00 at auto zone. It really isn't that much more work to pull the entire dash. You can check and replace bulbs etc while there. It makes it much easier to pull the AC/heater box.

Unless you are dead set (pardon the pun) on originality, I highly recommend that you purchase three point Morris Seat Belts. They can be purchased from Morris, Jegs, and numerous other outlets. See: http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?64019-Morris-Seat-Belts-Invest-in-your-Safety I think they are cheap insurance for me and others in my vehichle.

If you put it on a lift you should be able to tell where it is coming from. If you don't have a lift available take it to a muffler shoop and have them check it for you. Probably won't charge you to inspect it for you.

The reason I recommended that is because I have a 350 (dynoed 421 HP) with 700R4 and 3.55 with stock tires. I thought the 400 would have additional torque to allow numerically lower gears if desired. I am very happy with the 3.55 gears.

If you will be doing much daily driving I would highly recommend 3.55 gears or even numerically lower gears.

I have done the same as Overdrive and it works great. You can't go wrong with his advice....

This is information that I received previously. Factory finish Underhood Detailing:  Frame and upper/lower control arms and upper shafts = semi-gloss black  Front coil springs = gloss black or natural (better detail contrast)  Firewall, inner fenders, radiator support = semi-gloss black  Radiator and fan = gloss black  Fan clutch = natural aluminum  Radiator shroud = natural black plastic or gloss black  Steering box = natural cast iron gray  Steering linkage = natural steel  Front sway bar = natural cast iron gray  Heater or AC housing = semigloss black  Hood hinges, latch, catch and springs = gray phosphate plated  Brackets and steel pulleys = semi-gloss or gloss black (gloss gives more detail contrast)  Cast iron pulleys = natural cast iron  Master cylinder = natural cast iron (some use gloss black)  Brake booster = gold cadmium plated (master cylinder lid also)  Windshield wiper motor = gloss black  Alternator = natural aluminum  Power steering pump = gloss black  AC compressor = semi-gloss black  Steering column shaft = natural steel  Horns = gloss black  Coil = gloss black  Voltage regulator = gloss black  Distributor = natural aluminum with gloss black cap  Fuel and brake lines = natural steel Undercarriage Details:  Transmission = natural aluminum  Bellhousing = natural aluminum  Transmission support = semi-gloss black  Driveshaft = natural steel  Rear axle = semi-gloss black  Rear swaybar = semi-gloss black  Rear coil springs = gloss black  Rear control arms = semi-gloss black  Gas tank = natural steel (shiny)  Gas tank straps = gloss black  Parking brake cables = natural steel

I used this same kit and it was very easy to install. When you get it all installed you may need to get a carb. adaptor (depending on what carburator you are using) to hook up to your TV linkage. If you do not get your TV cable adjusted correctly you will ruin your new transmission.

This is the switch that I have installed on my 71. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERIOR-...sQ5fAccessories This is the type switch that I had installed on another M/C. They both worked great. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERIOR-...sQ5fAccessories

I have a 700-R4 with 3.55 gears and am extrmely happy with that combination. I would recommend checking with local transmission shope (a bunch) and see if they have one on hand and price to do the conversion. I did mine about a year ago and total cost was $1,000. that included the driveshaft shortning and lockup torue converter.The only thing that I supplied was adaptor that went with the newly installed Hollly carb and the lock-up kit for the torque converter. After I got it running I bought the correct speedometer drive and driven gear and he installed it at no cost. Recommend that you might want to purchase them prior to installing the transmission. Good luck.

The rear floor console bracket can be purchased from numerous suppliers and can be screwed in if a welder is not available. The original disconnected shift lever (under hood) will have to be wired up. If you don't then the steering wheel will be locked if not in the correct position. You have to get a neutral safety switch in the console as the one on the steering column will no longer work. If you have specific questions you can send me a PM.

I also have 3.55's with 700R-4, 350, 421 HP. Extremely happy, best ratio with the 700 I think.