70MC402

Having somewhat limited experience working on carburetors take my comments with a grain of salt, that being said i would think it would make sense to sort out the throttle cable slack before going after the kickdown issue. Th350 or 700r4? The kickdown cable length setting is dictated my the throttle position on the carb linkage, so adjusting the pedal to be better connected to the linkage should be the first priority. Once the throttle cable length is corrected and you dont have slack check to see when the kickdown is accomplished.

Yeah I agree! One of the reasons i took so many pictures before putting it back into service lol.

Got the rear end all buttoned up and installed along with new brake lines and a Wilwood adjustable porportioning valve. The Truetrac and 3:73s definitely woke up the Monte. No noise from the rear end and definitely a different car from the open differential 3:31s.

Im not sure how relevant or helpful this may be but a friend had an old truck that wouldnt move without the throttle. You could feel the transmission engage but the vehicle wouldnt move without throttle. He had a brake shoe hanging up and causing friction in the driveline. Just a thought.

Sorry im not adding any informative value im just here to say that green looks kick**s on your Monte. I feel like greens are typically overlooked and undervalued. Nice car man.

I got my rear end back from powder coating and after a thorough cleaning started the reassembly. Got the ring gear installed on the carrier, the new bearing races in the housing and I made up a slip fit inner pinion bearing for easier pinion depth adjustment. After a few times on and off ive got the carrier just about where i want it. Im at 0.0075 inches of backlash (US Gear recommends .008-0.012 for the street gears) measured at 2 different points of the gear and a decent pattern. Drive side is pretty close, im just trying to find a 0.003 carrier shim to add to the passenger side ofnthe carrier to get a bit more backlash between the ring and pinion, as well as a bit more carrier bearing preload. I called motive with the Super Shim kit but they couldnt verify the shim thicknesses. Anyone know of any shim kits that they know include 0.003? Or any shim kits that have like a 0.013 or 0.023 shim.

Im sure it's going to be quite a bit higher running but i still have 29 inch tall tires on mine and ive got a 4l80e i may end up installing if the RPM drives me nuts. I dont do much highway with it anyways, the roads i typically drive on are 55 mph roads. But thank you for rhe advice if I decide i cant stand it.

I bought a trutrac for my 12 bolt 3:73 conversion at the suggestion of MC1of80 on one if my threads from a few months ago and made in Taiwan or not it's a solid unit.

Well it took a few months but i finally found the time. Got the rear end out, and taken apart. Next step is to cut the ends off for the C Clip eliminator installation. Then its off to be powdercoated, when it gets back I'll install the new gearset and True Trac, the 33 spline axles. Im trying to decide now on a rear brake conversion too. The Wilwood kit for the C Clip eliminator s looks pretty nice.

Okay thanks for the info! Its looking like a 5 inch backspace is going to be the best bet for wider tires. Atleast for 15x8s.

LS5 was the rub your tires had on the outside at the seam for the quarter panel and trim? Ive got a 70 im doing a gear change, as well as 15x8s (4.75 or 5 inch backspacing) and i cant decide on 295/60/15s or 275/60/15s. It has 255/70/15s on now and i have what seems like an inch to the quarter panel seem and 2 inches to the frame rail with 15x7s 3.75 backspacing.

While theres salt on the ground its a good time to make changes/upgrades and not have to worry about downtime

Ive been looking around for different options for the battery terminals themselves, does crimping a copper eyelet to a 2 or 1 AWG wire and bolting that to copper or lead battery terminal carry enough amperage? If so are people tying the smaller wires for fender ground and the one that goes off the positive cable to the core support into the copper crimps or attaching them to the battery separately. Also does anyone know or remember the size of the eyelet on the starter? Sorry for the game of 20 questions.

Im not really going for a restored look, just something that's functional and doesnt have excessive voltage drop like my current cables.

Going off the VIN decoder my car started life in Los Angeles, or whatever VIN L indicates. Ive had both front seats out, the rear seat and storage tray out, no build sheet found. Also the previous owner stated he looked for it as well, so the battery I have is likely incorrect, can i just make my own cables or would it be better to convert it back to ulitizing side cables and a new battery?

If i dont have a build sheet is there any way to find out what codes the build sheet would have. Or any way to have a build sheet reproduced?

Its a 402 big block. If I take the car out and get it hot, shut it off and run into a store quick, yesterday I was getting a headlight bulb for my wife's car, I come back out 5 minutes later and my starter just clicks, solenoid moves but the starter motor doesnt engage. Had the wife crank it over while i tapped on the starter thinking it was going bad as I recently put headers on the car. No change. Wiggle the battery cable at the batterybterminal clamp, it arcs a little then fires up the car. Someone also cobbled the negative battery fender ground before I got the car too and id like to replace it.

How do you go about getting the build sheet for a car? I have a 70 MC like my name would state and I'm having issues with the positive battery cable. Im not sure what the car had originally but it has top post cable ends on it now.

I called there requesting information on their carrier, ring and pinion, and installation kits and they told me they don't use name brand components in many of their kits which helps keep the costs down. $2300 is still a $1000 more than all of the components from Moser, and the moser parts are made in America. I can see the appeal to some people i suppose.

I'm not opposed to welding new ends on I just dont know how i would ensure that everything is kept square and positioned correctly. I would think just for ease of installation the eliminator kits might be a little more straightforward? If I have any issues with the Eliminator clips I'll look into the 9 inch ends. Thanks for the tip!

Im not familiar with housing end conversions? Whats the benefit over the C Clip eliminator kit?

Right now its just a nearly stock 402, with a small comp cam and edelbrock aluminum mid rise intake, nothing wild at all yet. Th400 and the 3.31 gears. Good to hear the truetrac is the way to go!! My thought process with the 33 spline axles and eliminators isnt for the current setup but over the next few years further upgrade the big block with a more aggressive cam and head setup or put a Turbocharged LS engine I built in. I know the current 402 isnt going to cause any issues with the rear end.

How was the fit on the line kit from inline tube? I replaced the rear axle lines on my 70 with some from inline tube last summer and 1 fit like a glove the other took a few trial fits to work out.

Hey everyone, this winter I'm going to to through the rear end of my 70. Last year I rebuilt the 402, nothing wild, a small (212/218) cam and an intake. Now that I have the engine running well id like to be able to take advantage of the big block more than the open rear diff i currently have in the car allows me to. A friend and coworker has a modfied Cobalt SS and its pretty sad when his turbocharged 2.0 liter can put the gap on my Monte. So to improve the acceleration on the car I'm replacing the open carrier 3.31 rear gear with a TrueTrac carrier with a US Gear 3.73 ring and pinion. With either more engine upgrades or a turbocharged LS in the cars eventual future I will be replacing the factory axles with Moser 33 spline axles and eliminating the C-Clips with the Eliminator kit offered by Moser. I work as a mechanic as a profession, so I'm somewhat familiar with the rear end setup (more proficient at the easier full floating rear ends) but havent done much with my Montes rear end other than the suspension and adjusting the brakes as the previous owner had.....lets just say poorly redone the shoes. Anyone have any words of wisdom or things to look out for when going through our cars rear ends? I was likely going to just order the parts through Moser unless someone has another recommendation. Either way thanks for reading, hope everyone has Happy Holidays coming up and once I get going on it I'll add pictures. Thanks-Rick

When I get some time I'll update with photos of the rear shelf but I bought a stereo from Classic Stereos. Looks better than the cheapo aftermarket stuff but its not exactly original. I pulled the interior apart and ran a new harness through the passenger side wire channel area in the floor. I needed to replace my original rear shelf panel so I did that when i mounted some 4 ohm pioneer 6x9s from OPGI. The mount kit thet sent with it didnt really fit so i had to modify them. I bought a front speaker setup from Classic stereo and found a mono radio single front speaker bracket off a chevelle on ebay for 55 bucks. Then used the speaker mount from classic and made it fit. So what I have now is the classic 200 watt stereo, AM/FM with a rear AUX port, 2 6x9s in the back, 2 3 inch tweeters grafted into the front single speaker mount, and I built a harness for it all with deutsche connectors and a removable harness that didnt require cutting up the factory dash harness. The sound is good. If youre a real big sound system buff it would probably be a little weak but I prefer the pipes x pipe with my flowmasters over the radio, I just wanted some background noise.