420ponies

I will consider that idea.I'm just happy they all work now.Thankyou for the info.

If they do not want it back, I may be inclined to purchase it from you "as is".It should be replaced in my opinion.It does look like it flew off the truck at some point though.I hate too se their "drop ship" move.

Good info.I should have that magazine,I save ALL of mine.I'm thinking of doing a 200-4,I have one out of a '87 astro van.correct numbers for a good rebuild.about $800.00 in hard parts to make it hold up.Torque converter not included in parts price.Could be my winter project.

Hi all,I finally got it all back together and here to say works better than ever!! I did spend more than I wanted to on parts ($165.00) ,but now they are "like new" again.Took it out for a "shakedown cruise" and had a blast.Took it to the drive-in last night,seen "Campaign" with Will Ferrell And "Batman The Dark Knight Rises" did't get home 'til 1:30am!! Now it's time to go to a car show.

Hi Dennis, I went back out to look at the wires and I will have to do this (change out the master switch connector wires).I just had too much of trying to pin-point the problem.that wire that is rubbed will be repaired and re-routed out of the way of the window regulator.I cannot see where they might have re-spliced the wires to the window regulator, but I can see why it needs to be changed when I bench tested the window motor,that spring does get some tension on it.Thankyou again for your help in this matter.I always know someone on here will have answer to my questions.Thanks Again!!

Found the problem, passenger side window, picture in gallery under 420ponies. Can't figure out how to add pic to reply post. Still can't figure out why master switch for passenger switch is opposite of the rest of the switches. All wires look factory taped. Could passenger side master switch wires be switched in wire connector?? Window switch on passenger side is correct. Any ideas?

Hi all,Well the new parts arrived and let me tell you the new master switch is very nice!! I installed the new ignition switch,window relay,and master switch.it all worked.....until I tried the passenger side window,went down,then halfway up and quit,then no power to any windows.no power to the red/white tracer wire coming out of the new window relay.so the problem lies in the passenger window motor.Now just to let everyone know this window is wired wrong (I hope) ever since I bought the car in '04.the "up" position on the master switch is "down" and vice versa going up.the window switch on the passenger door is correct in movement.I tried the windows this morning(except the passenger window)everyone worked(power out of red wire/with white tracer).So the relay is doing it's job.So now the window reg./motor are out of the door and I replaced the grease. it wasn't bad or crusty like I thought it would be.NOW comes the question:Should the motor go faster in one direction than the other? This is happening when hooked up to 12v battery.faster going down than up.I'm going to put it back in and trace my door wires and find where they are switched.I hope not at the master switch (looks factory).I think the gear on the window regulator was the problem,too little grease on that part.Hope to have this back in and operating by the end of the week.Saturday night,drive-in movie night!!Also the new master switch has no stud for the wire connector.Go figure!!I guess silicone should work.Please,your thoughts on this are greatly appreciated!!

Hi All, Just too update,I should have the new window switch relay and master switch from Harmon's next week.I have replaced the ignition relay switch.3 weeks they told me (keeping fingers crossed).took passenger window motor out and replaced grease.seemed to work ok with old but had to make sure that was not the problem.

gprimm, On my Monte I use a timing /advance(dial) timing light .I too have lighter springs in the distributor(HEI).I run about 12Degress at idle (vacumn unhooked and hose plugged)and 40degrees total (vacumn hose attached)at 3000rpm's.I have a holley 750vac.secondary and run off the lower base (full vacumn)port.I've tried the upper metering vacumn port and have had the same issue like you.Is your vacumn advance on the distibutor a adjustable style?that style will limit the amount of advance in the distributor.It has a little allen wrench bolt inside the vacumn advance canister port.Hope this helps.alot of smallblocks run 34-36 degrees total advance,mine just likes the 40!

Just letting you know Rob, thoughts and prayers coming your way from Upstate N.Y. Seems like yesterday we were all sitting around the parking lot talking up the Monte's at Carlisle.Get well soon!! Thanks Dan for the updates.

Hi,just to reiterate the last post .the wire next to the red wire (with white tracer is a pink wire,not tan.I've looked through my fisher service manual,(15-6)page, and it states"turn ignition on and with test light check output terminal of relay"(red/white wire).If tester does not light: a.put test light on ignition relay coil terminal(pink or tan wire). b.If tester lights,replace ignition relay. Well,I did that and juice to that wire.so now the ignition relay is bad?I'm going to replace the window switch relay,master window switch(took this apart and the contacts look bad,bad) and also the ignition relay.It has been acting funny, sometimes the gen. light comes on and sometimes you have to move the key for it to light up.maybe that is the problem.But first when I checked the window relay no power going out to the window master switch(red/white wire).I think that was the whole problem why the windows would not work.So couple hundred dollars and maybe I'll have operating windows again! Isn't life grand!!

Here's what I found so far.power from 12v-30amp fuse from fuse block,check.power going into window switch relay,tan wire (with black tracer) on top of plug) check. power coming out of relay tan wire (next to red with white tracer) ,check.power to red wire(from relay switch) with white tracer going to master switch,NO POWER.so now trying to figure out why this doesn't have power.I also have power coming out of the 10gage wire with fusible link from horn relay.So, what makes the red wire w/white tracer have power to master switch? I am using a horn relay from a 1970 chevy pickup.has the same wire connector as the window relay,12v type.Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thankyou all who replied. I will dive into this today.I will check the other circuit and then see if I have power running to the master switch on the door. these windows have had no problems going up or down until now.I know they turned 40 and could use some new grease in them.I'll do this when I get them to work from the master switch and separate switches.again i don't what I'd do without you helping me along the way.

My '72 has power windows.This past weekend they decided not to work.drivers went up ok, pass.halfway and stopped.I've replaced the power acc. fuse with a 12v-30 amp buss type II fuse (if overtaxed will disconnect and connect when cooled)like a switched circuit breaker.I ordered 2 of these from summit.put it in and the drivers went down,pass.started than stopped part way down.I checked for power from the fuse and it is crossing over.What gives? This happened 2yrs ago and I just replaced the silver box type breaker with this and have had no problems 'til now.Is there something I'm overlooking.does this have a window relay switch?I do not have anything from drivers door switch or other window switches.Like to note the power locks do work.The only thing I can think of is the main switch(driver's door) may be bad? .

You'll only need the 12v ign. (12v) wire to operate the HEI.the other plug is used for the positive wire(pickup) for a tach.make sure the ign. wire you installed works with your key. simple power is all it needs and it does the rest.should have power with gin.key on and no power with it turned off.

They are gonna look sweet on it!! I was going to go that route when I was restoring mine but went with ralleys.What a steal!!

Hi Alex, No, mine just needed piece on the drivers side replaced.Got that from Goodmark, along with a new tank strap brace.

I'm glad to see you Alex.I hope he gets thru this endeavor.Thankyou again for the rear tailpanel for my '72,7yrs and still looking good.

Hi Jacob,the speedo has a spring retainer clip.You push clip(upper ring) towards the gauge cluster and pull back on cable,it should disconnect.most of your cables(wire) have a tab on the side of plug and are all push in tab and pull back plug style.I've found a tiny flat tip will push in the tab better then your fingers.Just be careful and take your time.Again read thru the printout a couple of times to make sure you do not skip a step.I have to look thru it a few times so I'm doing just excatly how it reads.The pics are invaluable to what you are doing.Keep it close to you(in the car)So you can glance at when needed.Hope this helps you out.

Hi Jacob,Did you get the info. off of Ground Up? If not do this PLEASE!! 1.Go to Google 2.Go to Ground Up(www.ss396.com) 3.Click on Chevelle (I know it isn't nice too) 4.click on Tech.(just below the picture of Chevelle) 5.follow down to Interior Installation guide 1970-72 Chevelle & Monte carlo dash installation this will come up as a PDF and PRINT THIS OUT! It is a very positive tool to the disassembly and re-assembly of your dash.I don't want to see you burn your Monte up!!I hope this helps you out.It's easier to see how to diassemble it than going in blind.Remember hindsight is 20/20.

Hi Jacob, I think there was a thread maybe in the archives from Ground Up that has a step by step on how to take the dash gauges out of our Montes.I have it in paper form from the website.It is a "must have" if trying to dismantle the dash on our cars.Maybe someone else will chime in on this.No.1 thing about this is to take your time and pictures as you go .

Alright,I know I've seen it here before.I'm having some "wind noise" with my side glass(door glass).Is there any real way to adjust these so they do not make this noise?I have new weatherstips and tried to use the manual on "how to adjust" and I still have the noise.seems if I move the glass it gets pinched or loose at the front"A" piller.Do I start out with the adjustment of the quarter glass first and then the door glass or vise versa? They make it sound so easy in the service book.Any tips on this would be welcome.Also,I keep tearing my quarterglass weatherstrips off when I lower them(at the bottom lip).These are metro also.no steel running through them.thinking of changing these out to the steel re-inforced style.

Going to take it out first time this year(Easter Sunday).took a little bit on the starter but fired right up! I guess the stabil did it's job.I did some checks everything looks good.

DITTO! Had this happen to my Monte when I got the brakes back on the car.Found the master cylinder was bleeding by.New and bench bled!