502ci

You could always use a yellow paint pen and color the white letters yellow. Here's another picture of my tires...255/60/15 on 15x 7" rims with 4" of b.s. on the front and you already know the back ones. Bill

I would say that is the best for the front and back with those tires. That is a very wide treaded tire...luckily the sidewall is not quite as wide as mine and you are over an inch shorter both helping you make them fit. I would like to see them (pictures) after you get them on... Here's a link to a few pictures of my tires, how tight they are, and how I did it...Click Here Bill

I agree on grinding it off the way Sam mentioned, that's how I did mine. They do make a actual tool to roll it and I have seen ones done by themselves with a baseball bat... there's a monte near me that has a rolled lip and the metal in the actual face of the quarter developed waves in it when he did it...then he proceeded to do the other side... I could do nothing but stare and keep my mouth shut. Bill

With out being sarcastic...yes, they will fit but they will be sticking out of the wheel well and when you lower the car the wheel lip will be sitting on top of the tire. With that b.s. no chance... Bill

Look at it this way...a stick shift will just slow you down... Although the fun factor and better gas mileage would be nice...hey, what is their overdrive ratio for 5th gear if you don't mind me asking... Bill

Congrats on getting faster. I know the feeling waiting in the staging lanes like that... Don't forget to change your signature to display your new best... Bill

I'll buy that... Bill

Nice pictures of the restoration... I wish I took more than 3 pictures when I did mine back in 83... I got one question though...your car is a 71 and you started restoration on it in 82, how did it get so much rust in 11 years? Bill

You are gonna get rubber on the bottom of the quarter panel, the trim on the quarter panel, on the bottom of the car like you mentioned, the exhaust pipe, also you will get it on the inner fender from top to the lower sides...almost impossible to guard against all of this with a shield. I personally do not have a show car and will just run my hand on the inner fender rolling balls of rubber and letting it drop to the floor, same on the rest of the areas. I will spray detailer on the trim and fender to get any last rubber off the panels. But... seeing how you have a frame off resto I would use a spray on product to make clean-up easy...just spray it all over the area even under the car. I personally have never used it but have heard comments from people who have and it seemed to work. I would think this would be the best route to try as it could even be sprayed on the inner fenders where no shield could stop all the rubber. Here's a link to the product...Burnout Guard Bill

Hate to say it but I do not even have one and I'm in the 11's...I know I should, my only excuse and it's not the greatest is I have all 1350 series joints and a large driveshaft. It wouldn't hurt to have it when running at any speed and would save alot of carnage if something breaks. Too be honest when you are test and tuning, trophy night, or grudge matches at the track near me, they won't even look...that includes a back woods track here and even the very large Summit Motorsports Park. I think you will get by the techs without one (I'm being honest and not suggesting you race without safety measures). Bill

I might have to get them a try and scratch the hinge pin idea... Bill

I had to do alot of grinding on my Hookers... Their flange is so big and thick though I had no worry I was gonna take too much off...and I never had a leak, so all is well... Bill

I noticed that also but I think they were possibly referring to this statement of theirs..."208 - Chevy 502 big block generation 6 engines with aluminum cylinder heads will have clearance problems on some applications. Bottom of header flanges may hit head bolts. Notching may be necessary." Bill

One of the most powerful and with a perfect fit is the Flex-a-lite-292. I have it on my car and it works awesome...having a shroud like it does increases the effectiveness greatly with 4,600 cfm. Here's a link...Click Here Bill

It is a GM color...but my car no longer looks like that, picture was taken about 5 years ago and the photo was color enhanced...although that is how it looked back in 1983 when my Dad painted it. We went from car dealer to car dealer looking for a color and when we found it we got the paint code off the dealer...it was so long ago I don't remember the code...sorry. Bill

I just clicked on my cardomain page...looks like they changed the site around a bit, not sure I like how it looks... Bill

Here's a view of them...you can see at the collector is where I have a collector extension that starts to angle the exhaust back up. The funny thing sticking out at an angle in that extension is a y-pipe cut-out. Bill

Those are the exact ones I have on my 502 motor. One thing, they will hang low under the car as most "long tubes" do.

I agree with the forged parts...add a forged crank to that list, but at the level of hp you are going for Jim I think the forged crank is really not that necessary. Andreas, 8:1 compression to run 8 psi of boost is more the limit of a roots style...with a intercooled Pro charger at 8 psi he could go as high as 10.5:1 This may seem high but check out their chart...this is a guide line and other things like iron or aluminum heads will be a factor also. Bill

After seeing that picture I imagined myself in a hurry to leave a car show and grabbing my hood and pulling down fairly hard and forgeting the pins were in... ...I actually got a tingling in my stomach at the thought. I think I'll be okay and won't forget though...but if I do I will post pictures of the carnage... Bill

I will definately be doing that very simple but highly effective mod... Bill

Bummer... I can't remember, what did you say your fiberglass hood weighs? I'm just curious, I'll be taking "mine" back off soon for some work and maybe this time I will remember to weigh it before I put it back on, but still I would have thought mine was heavier... Bill

A 3000 stall is what I had ordered with my tranny...now the company who built it didn't use any of the hi-performance parts I ordered for it so it is possible that the converter is wrong also...possibly oversized...I'm not sure, but it was definately a no name brand they listed and if I could go back in time what I know now I would have ordered a name brand. Only feels like it is slipping when I first start it (we had that conversation before) but when it warms up you can barely tell it has that big of a stall...you can blip the throttle a bit when idling through a parking lot to maybe 2000+ and the car won't jump forward and can actually give the illusion to a bystander standing there that my car might have a clutch set-up. Using those calculators available on-line my converter is slipping like 1 to 2 percent more than it should be at 60 mph. I still have no tranny temp. gauge so I'm not sure what it is running at, but I do have a large tranny cooler in front with a large fan on it, I do not run the lines through the radiator, in fact I ordered the Be Cool one without them. I never noticed that it was hot or smelled anything funny. At any speed if I hammer it the rpm's jump to 4000+ which is just below my torque peak for my motor, I'll admit (and brag) my car pulls extremely hard at any speed, at 60 mph in overdrive (remember my car is locked in overdrive with the gear vendors at that point) my TH400 kicks in the passing gear and just starts pulling...I can make my passengers eyes get real wide at that point... ... Bill

The brakes can only hold it back so much...the stall is really what it flashes to when you launch full throttle...my 3000 stall flashes to 4000+ behind my big block but would act differently behind any other motor. Bill

I was looking at the Pro Charger myself for quite awhile, I talked to them and did alot of research. Go to their site and request some info/catalog, it will have all their models on there, listing which one would be best for you with the motor you have in your car now. They give all the info on fuel requirements and everything in between. You could simply put one of their modest supercharger models on your car without an intercooler and with not much boost and still get nice results. Or you could go all out with one of their huge models (I was gonna get the F2 model) an intercooler which takes alot of fabwork, a huge fuel line, high volume pump, etc, etc... I think the centrifugal type of superchargers are the best seeing how they will fit under a stock hood. Bill