Cali Z28

Stock small block I wouldnt go anything over a 383 or whatever the cubic inch comes out if its at most 60 over. I'd choose the Dart block over the World. Scott

Something doesn't seem right if all the lug nuts feel wrong. Generally the studs strange gives for their axles are longer then stock. Are you using "open end" lug nuts? That's where I would start first

Nice Andy....although a power adder such as a big turbo is the great equalizer...I went up against a Grand National the last time we went to ETown and he went 9.50's at 140mph....I treed him and then he passed me like I was standing still and I all I could hear when he went by was that turbo (it was a time run so no handicap). I'll still take the big block Scott

X2 You will have severe brake fade

Mine is a HP950 that flows over 1000cfm

David, my moto has always been "if your going to be a bear be a grizzy".....solid roller baby (spend the dollars on the best lifters available)...you're going to have to upgrade your drivetrain to handle the new power (trans, driveshaft, rear)

And depending on how fast you go and how hard you hook, the tires should be pinned regardless if there are tubes or not

Summit / Jegs sells rim screws (I went with Moroso) - I have 8 on the outside and 8 on the inside. Since its a slick and only used when I go the track I have no tubes. I used tubes when I had the ET Streets which were on the car for the street and track Scott

X2 I know my car is a Camaro...but I run the M/T ET Drag 28x10.5S (stiff sidewall) with 16lbs of air Scott

x2 I have the Hurst roll control but that was bought 10yrs ago...I would go with the Moroso

I have a 6pt..I guess if you count the bar that goes behind the the seat in the main hoop its a 8pt? Im good to 10.00 (plus all the regular safety equipment that is need below 11.49) you dont need a full cage until your 9.99 or faster

I believe its a rule or an urban legend, I've heard that for years. Ive never run straight water

16-18lbs sounds about right for drag radials....I wouldn't go lower unless you like feeling of a loose car

Like David mentioned, Steve, Al and myself all have DP's from ProSystems. They were right on the money out of the box, just had to adjust the float and idle and off you go. I recommend calling a couple of carb companies for recommendations as they are or should be the experts. Speak with Patrick at ProSystems

Its not the best but you get used to it. Like Steve said, my eliminator kit leaks (they all leak!) I had the Eaton posi from Strange along with the upgraded axles (31 spline), and would over power the posi at the track (making around 725 hp). Spool in it now and its night and day. It depends on what your going to use the car for, a lot of track time you definately need the spool. Scott

March is good as well

I run the dual fan setup (made by SPAL) - same fans that Be Cool now sells - lots of CFM put draws alot of current

I have to find my old post where I said your MPH put you in the 11.90's And you backed it up with 2 more 11 second runs. Very cool Dave and congrats on going 3 rounds.

Lol....I think it's more like a discussion and looking forward to see if he picks up any ET

Hey Scott, I've agreed with you the whole time and the logic and physics make sense...but if the car is not spinning and leaving straight the gains I believe would be very small. We are racing in July in PA, the elevation will be probably smiliar the temp will be way different. We shall see.

Agreed on the looks which is one of the main reasons I got it and I have the pump and fans on seperate switches to run it between rounds.

Steve's point is this (we were debating about it yesterday). If he can eliminate the torque pull and have the car come up straight that would that improve his ET. My arguement is that the rear suspension is doing its job if the car leaves straight, doesnt spin the tires and there is no wheel hop. Now all these factors happened at the track. No spin, 1.71 60ft and the car went straight. I added the fact that I have a race rear suspension set up in my car (racing split monos, adjustable shocks and Cal Tracs) solid motor mounts but my front suspension is all stock except for no sway bar. My car has torque pull as well. Every racer I've spoken to said in order for the car to come up equal on both sides the front suspension would have to be set up as well (trick springs and 90/10's) but with a 1.39 60ft I find that unecessary for the 2 times I race a year. My point is there is minimal to be gained if any by eliminating the torque pull. Steve is citing the physics involved which is a little scarey LOL. Any thoughts or am I off base?

Its personal preference...it depends on how much your using your car. Some of the articles you read say you can add up to 10hp by eliminating pulleys. I run a CSR electric pump with no issues (draws very little) for last 2yrs and the car doesnt run hot. I like the clean look which is why I relocated the alternator down low as well.

Tab here

I ran the Mallory comp 140 pump for years with my old motor with no return and no issues. Like Scott said it so quiet I barely noticed it.