Steve G

When i ran the 313-c number it comes up as a Doug Thorley header for the big block. I have ran Thorley headers before and never had issues with leaks or fitment. The price is a tad up there but this seems like a logical option. My biggest concern was the proportioning valve.

As the title says im looking for long tube headers for a BB that will slide right in with minimal to no vehicle modifications at all. Thanks

I have seen these transactions before... the only thing that makes me wonder is why would he go through all this effort to sell for 1/4 of market value? if it seems to good to be true.............

had to ask

i got to ask....... you are running roller lifters now..... did you install a roller cam?

is oil making its way up the pushrods?

my falcon i built 20 years ago had the same issue on a fresh build... i was told it was because i didnt prime the lifters properly before setting the lash... i was not sure if that is true so i changed cam and lifters instead of chancing damage to anything the most accurate way to set zero lash is to go up and down rather than spinning the pushrod....... strong fingers, different diameter pushrods, spring rate for the lifter and valve springs will throw off the spin method.. then do your half or 1/4 turn depending on application

that may be the best idea... reason being is the car was bought by my Mom and Dad in 1971. The car was a special order and sent to Fairway Chevrolet in San Bruno. It was discounted and sold off the back lot. The pewter green exterior with green interior was an acquired taste. So maybe the person who ordered it was unable to get the car for whatever reason.

adding braces will cause warping and distorting .... i wont go into all the scientific explanation about why.. Dont expect your fiberglass hood to be razor straight.. you can do a ton of bodywork, prime and block it till it looks flawless... paint it and park it in direct sunlight on a 100 degree day and watch what happens. To some it will still look perfect but fiberglass panels never get past a trained eye.

my honest opinion.... only run a latch if its designed for it. Hood pins are 100% guaranteed to hold a hood down.. as long as they are installed and not sitting on your toolbox. I have seen fiberglass hoods that get hacked or modded to hold a factory latch just to find out the hoods resin content was far too high and it starts cracking apart.

Springs for fiberglass hoods are very light tension compared to standard springs. Only about 20%in many cases. A racing fiberglass hood will break in half before it even begins to move stock springs. On the other hand a really high quality fiberglass hood with all the fasteners, inner braces and a show quality fit and finish in many cases will weigh as much or more than a stock steel hood. I have used monster springs from the hardware store before on the old mustangs and falcons. About $9. But the monte hood towers over a mustang hood. but its something to consider

My monte is a 72 and came with a 71 hood spear from the showroom floor (i have pics of it the day it was purchased). Has any one else came across this before? i was thinking maybe because its a very early production 72 and possibly GM used up overstock on the assembly line. Its a Van Nuys car. Any info or opinions would be great thanks

bone stock 402...

My monte has a 4 core radiator and the 350 never even runs close to 180 degrees. Will it work with a 402 or do i need to run a real big block radiator? or is there a difference to begin with? thanks

so....... what do i need? haha

I am sure this has been covered before but i gave up using the search option. I have a complete 402 from a 71 including the trans and every accessory it came with... 98% complete. the 2% missing is the motor mounts and brackets. I am trying to find out what i need thats specific to the bbc in the way of motor mounting brackets. and where i can get them. Some have said use everything from chevelle but after trying to use LS swap kits from chevelle i dont believe they can be the same Thanks

i thought the glass trim was the same as a chevelle

the best deepest gloss black you will find is an acrylic urethane single stage from a good company like glasso or sikkens. None of the black single stage paints are very durable anymore due to EPA regulations restricting all the good stuff that goes into paint. Black is the softest single stage there is because it contains almost no ti02 chemical. if you are going to be a trailer queen i would go single stage. If its a driver i suggest house of kolor jet black base with HOK usc01 show clear. Avoid the deals you see online, never mix different brands of clear, hardeners, bases, or reducers. its too risky unless you are super familiar with the products. Sometimes it takes years for a problem to become evident. as for brands i suggest to avoid... stay away from any independent side sale companies, PPG delfleet, PPG omni and hybrid synthetics such as ENAMEL URETHANE based paints that use dual hardeners (like delfleet). Acrylic enamel is good stuff but its old technology and time to move on.

attachment below....

ok so let me tell you the final outcome..... i sprayed all the door jambs then i went with two tape lines in the jambs when doing the outside..... first tape was to control how far the sealer and blue base went in, then remove the fineline and allow the candy and clear to go in a tad further... end result it looked terrible.. somehow the candy and clear never went in even half what the sealer traveled, And to top it off the body came out a totally different shade of the same color. I have now found the best way to solve this issue.... paint the car first to see what color the car will actually end up (candy paint sometimes makes the decision for you) then do the jambs . it came out perfect with only the faintest transition in color and no dull fuzzy clear edge

i gotta think about this one I have taken lots of pics but i cant post anything till the car is completed.

Hello everyone, California has just about banned every paint product i like... pretty soon i think i will be crushing berries and using carrot juice as a toner to make paint. But for now I need to move over to House OF Kolor for candy paints. I believe in following the tech sheets and staying within the paint systems (no cocktail mixing or chemist mix match of products) but the local paint suppliers cant give any advice because they simply sell paint.. oh how the times have changed. At one time a paint store required that the salesman had experience with their products they sell, not anymore. Im about to paint a car that is a seriously high end build ($200,000+) and im going to be throwing House of Kolor on it. The fun part of this is i have not sprayed their candy products in over 10 years. So i have been doing research all over and looking for advice from people that have had hands on experience with their current products. advice, warnings, tips are all welcome. This is not a "how do i spray candy paint" question. I do know how to spray candy with zero streaks or blems. But i sure as heck dont want to find out something about HOK products during the paint process.. or even worse find out after its painted that it will all peel off or something like that. I will be painting the jambs first and the outside all assembled .. i normally like to paint all apart to avoid tape lines in the jambs but the color will be sensitive to overlap buildup and i dont want dark edges around all the panels. So any advice on how to back blend the jambs or some way to minimize the tape lines will be appreciated . The tape line will be quite hefty considering the sealer, base, mid-coat and clear will be building up against it Thanks!

back when men were real men

I dont think we ever used them, at least the name is not familiar to me.