Crow

Doesn't pop or backfire, yeah I think I'm looking at pulling the carb apart and cleaning it out.. then installing an inline filter with a new tank, its original.

Hi all, hoping someone can help diagnose. My new stroker is running well one day, won't accelerate the next. Has about 100 miles on it so far. New GMPP ZZ383, DEMON 650 VE, new GM HEI. Starts fine, idles fine, vacuum about 20" off manifold at idle, revs high about 1250 (now), shuts down fine, will run about 7mph without throttle, but soon as I step on it, it misses, and will stall if I don't get off it.. Was running strong a day before, a little pinging under acceleration, was gonna address that when this happened. No inline fuel filter, if plugged somewhere wouldn't idle be affected?

Late entry. I was confused by this too. I found this March kit on E-bay for $660. Fit good not great. March kit.

My SBC kit isn't tested yet, but I don't like the p/s fitment either. I bought it off E-bay and think its a #22080. It has the A/C bracket, but the new Sanden compressor doesn't fit. I'll have to shave about 1/8" off either outside of the bracket,or, off the inside of the compressor mounts. I really like the look, although a thinner shroud would be nice. GMPP ZZ383 with March kit.

Or will I find a mechanical interlock? On my 1972 stock column.

Great diagrams, do you have the same for a column shifter? I am going to install a floor shifter this week I hope, and I'm wondering how I have to reroute the neutral safety switch to the B&M on the hump? Thanks.

The hood sucks, but, substituting a nice fitting 2" glass cowl induction on original steel would fix that. I think it needs rebuilt hinges at least. Everything else looks tight.

I'm know what headers you're not gonna use.

I was told by a guy I respect in the business that The crossover pipe only works if you find the exact point to put it in, and even then isn't worth much effiency.

Thanks guys, I'll ask them to use the soda media, and yes I'll be replacing the original u-joints with Spicers.

I had my trans crossmember sandblasted and cleaned up today, looked so good, that now I want to do a few other parts. One thing I was wondering about was; if I had the driveshaft blasted with aluminum oxide would it need to be rebalanced afterwards?

Nice machine.

No school like old school.

I run a clutch fan, with the wrong side finished. I'm left handed is all I can say.

The power valve is simply a 'switch' that opens at a specified vacuum. It does not meter the fuel. Metering is accomplished by the Power-valve channel restrictions. I know you can get staged valves in the Holley, that are designed to open at intermediate vacuum, which will meter the fuel until a low vacuum occurs and the metering is switched back to the PVCR's. Bones: I don't think your valve number should be higher than your idle number. If you remove the valve, you should start by jetting up 6-8 sizes to compensate.