72-CLASSIC_RIDE

Yeah, I at first thought there was a adhesive backing on it already. So many other things going on, I put it in the Console and practically forgot about it until recently. Heck, with adhesive included, it would likely add another $20.00 to the cost!! Thanx guys, Doug

Hey guys, Bought a Hood Spear emblem awhile back and am asking as to what type of adhesive would provide the best bond. Of course must also be weather resistant also. It is a metallic GM licensed repop piece. Original was gone back when I purchased her. I've looked at adhesives but these days you really can't trust the claims being made. A experienced opinion is appreciated. Kinda spendy and don't want to have to replace to often! Much appreciated, Doug

Not a 1970 model year but my 72 has the 400 w/ CD code and is a 402.

Even the NOS plastic fenders seem to have fitment problems, but can be massaged in if done properly. Chevelle's are different but can be used if you have some patience. The problem is when connected. The stresses in the plastic tend to start them cracking prematurely as noted by others who have used them. Montes have their own plastic fender characteristics and are not the same as a Chevelle. The NOS P/N's are different between the two. I believe the biggest problem with using the Chevelle inner fenderwells occur at the backside of the wheel but can't remember exactly where. You can likely see when holding fenderwell up into position by aligning the front section where the fit will be closer. I replaced my plastic cracked NOS fenderwells with Metal a year or so ago and they required some effort, elongated holes and massaging to fit up. For best fit up, you need Monte (only) inner fender wells. To often advertised as fits Chevelle/Monty is just wrong. Both cars share many different components but not all of them! NOS plastic fenders are sometimes offered via ebay. Check with Leo @ Koniksklassiks as he is a very good source for parts, new and used. Also, not sure where you purchased but I might see whats involved to return them as they are misrepresented! Doug

Replaced 350 CI engine and TH 350 Transmission with a 402 BB and TH400 transmission. Assembled transmission shift linkage and found will not shift to Park. Appears the shift cable bracket is preventing the shift cable from properly reaching the shift fork. AS the TH400 did not come with the bracket, I can't remember but must have purchased one sometime in the past 10 months. It apparently isn't the right one. No cable adjustment evident. Even tried another shift fork thinking the slot would position cable correctly. No dice! My question is, can anyone supply a pic showing what the shift linkage bracket actually looks like? Does shift cable appear to be correctly located? Is it possible is from a Column Shift? Does the TH400 require a different shift cable than a 350? We are considering bending the shift linkage bracket toward the fork in hopes of jimmy rigging for adjustment. Here is a pic of what I have set up now. THe arrow points to the shift fork we added. The bracket hard to see. Any and all suggestions and advise appreciated. A pic would be super!! Thanx all, Doug

Hey guys, thanx for the info. Really takes the guess work out. Didn't want to experiment and find out I goofed. What a nightmare to reclean again!! Doug

Anyone had any experience reconditioning their Fan Shroud? I just spent around 4 hours today cleaning and recleaning my Shroud. It is clean but 37 years of use has left it faded and stained. I tried using some polish and then some wax on a couple of spots but did not get the result I wanted. Looking for a paint (semi-gloss black) that I can trust to not peel, flake, crack from the compartment heat or weather and can be cleaned. Not looking for show quality, just a enhancement. I've seen some pic's of members cars with the shroud looking mighty sweet. Any success stories from you guys? Doug

Try this site by pasting into your browser. http://www.jdrace.com/ Doesn't spell out if a 28 or 30 spline but lots of info on the 12 Bolts. Look to left of page column and select Differential ID. Doug

If you remove the Carrier from the Housing yourself, make sure you mark the caps that secure the pumpkin in the housing. They look very similar to main bearing caps with one on each end of the carrier and each secured with 2 bolts. Very very important you don't get them mixed up as per side and orientation as they were machined and fit specifically for that location. If messed up, there is no other way to put them back as removed!! Some use paint to mark on one end of cap and housing to identify exact location while some might put a stamp or marking onto cap and housing to differentiate between the two. A stamp ensures the next time you need to remove carrier, they are already marked for correct replacement. Basically, they must be reinstalled exactly as was removed. The tolerances I'm sure someone can supply you once you decide what you will replace with. The Ring gear will have to be shimmed for correct lash with pinion gear. If not correctly alighned within specified tolerance, you are not going to like the result! Take pic's when removing so you can reference them when putting back together. The tricky part is determining the correct lash. To remove Carrier you have to remove the pin that runs thru carrier shown as a black line on pic. Remove the bolt that holds the pin in place and slide out pin. Push in each axle so that you can remove C-clips shown as yellow lines in pic. The C-clips hold axles in place. Remove Caps shown as black lines in pic. You can now remove carrier from housing. Watch for any washers/shims that may fall when removing Carrier and make note of which side(s). Carrier is / should be a net fit. Pull it out slowly and evenly so as not to cause a bind. If a sloppy fit, you need to investigate further as should have only a few thousanths clearance side to side. Check axles at location where they ride on bearings in axle tube for any wear or pitting. Simply slide axle far enough out from housing to inspect. If worn you should mic them to see how badly and if axle(s) need replaced. They make a repair bearing for a cheap fix but not recommended. If badly pitted, replace them. Inspect axle splines also for any abnormal wear. Bearings and Seals shouldn't present a big problem for you to replace if you decide to do the work yourself. Check bearing races for same types of wear. Pic simply provides a view of typical internals and locations of key removal points.. To replace, just reverse removal procedure. Don't forget to replace C-clips, Carrier Pin and locking pin bolt!!! Make sure caps go on same side and same orientation as removed from!!! This is not a complete tear down and rebuild instruction but will keep you from getting into trouble should you decide to do this on your own. Plent of guys here to walk you thru it and taking lots of pic's to reference should make it a not to difficult project. Of course, theres the lubrication of bearings and gear oil but should be self explanitory as you go. I'm sure others will add some info I likely have left out and the best on your build. I recently changed my 2 stage .273 to a .331 Posi with a total rebuild. Haven't installed it yet but within 3 weeks, we'll see if done correctly. Doug

AC cars would have two speakers regardless of AM, Mono or Stereo. AC apperatus would interfer if speaker were mounted in center of dash. Only non-AC cars would have the center speaker only with AM radios. AM/FM mono radios would have two front & one rear speaker regardless of A/C or not. Awww, the mattress isn't all that nice! Doug

Here are a few pic's for what you are after. There are several varieties to consider. AM Radio only - I Front center speaker (w/o A/C) Easiest and cheapest to find (uses 10 Ohm speaker(s) only) Not certain of speaker dimension or if speaker bracket is unique with 1970/71/72 Montes! AM/FM Mono Radio - 2 Front & 1 Rear Speaker (Uses 10 Ohm speakers only) front are 4X6 and rear 6X9 oval Driver side speaker bracket is unique to 1970/71/72 Monte Carlo only for Mono and Stereo! AM/FM Mono Radio (w/ built in Fader Control) 2 Front & 1 Rear (Uses 10 Ohm speakers only) front are 4X6 and rear 6X9 oval Driver side speaker bracket is unique to 1970/71/72 Monte Carlo only for Mono and Stereo! AM/FM Stereo Radio - 2 Front & 2 Rear Speakers (Uses 10 Ohm speakers only)front are 4X6 and rear 6X9 oval Driver side speaker bracket is unique to 1970/71/72 Monte Carlo only for Mono and Stereo! (Must use 10 Ohm speakers or damage to the radio will occur) 1971 & 72 has blue light illumination & uses the symbol knobs 1970 has green light illumination & knobs unique to 1970 only All use the deep chrome controls found behind the knobs often called SS controls. Mono radios display 1 diode on back while Stereo have 2 diodes displayed on rear. Stereo also identified as such with stereo script on r/h side of tuner Wiring harnesses are different from AM, AM/FM Mono and AM/FM Stereo radios Pic's show Stereo version & is correct look for application. Hope this hepls! Doug

PS: Mount the support arm to the fender skirt first and start bolt to tray. Alignment of battery tray to radiator support should be self explanatory and all the rest will fall into place. Doug

Here is a schematic for how the Battery Tray attaches to a 72 Monte. You can print it and have it with you at the car for orientation. Hope this helps as I know it can be confusing without a reference. Good Luck Doug

Hey thanks for the confirmation Scott. My first attempt at using this formula and needed some support. Seems like the more I learn, the less I know compared to the experiences you all have had. Almost 30 years at the same job and when any of the newer guys raze me about my knowledge, I simply reply (I have advanced so far beyond that point, I have already forgotten what you are just beginning to learn). I know how they feel when I solicit questions in this forum. Much appreciated! Doug

Wished I could answer that question Scott, Maybe someone will chime in that can. It would be much easier than grabbing the axle code from the tube but even then, had the axle been altered since new? Doug

I know this issue has been discussed in previous conversations and I have attempted to understand and use the calculators in order to determine what my correct speedometer reading would require based on the following: In the process of changing out entire drivetrain From 350 CI to 402 CI From TH350 to TH400 Trans. From .273 10 Bolt to .331 12 Bolt Posi Rear Axle Rear tire size remains the same @ 235/R70 w/ 15" Rim Based on my understanding the following applies using the calculator(s) provided: Tire dia. @ 27.95" 331 Rear Axle ratio 18 Tooth Drive Gear The formula says I need to change my driven gear from currently 37 teeth to 43 teeth for correct speedo reading. I believe the driven gear housing will also need to be replaced to a 40 to 45 tooth gear housing. Does this seem correct assuming my calculations are accurate? Looking for a confirmation that I had used the math correctly and not left out anything else that would cause me grief. Not totally confident and don't want to throw money around on something I may have overlooked. All comments and suggestions aprreciated All have a GREAT day..... Doug

No, didn't and have not planned for a clear coat. Frankly, I hopefully won't put anything in the trunk that will cause me any grief. I did recently purchase a repop trunk mat and that should be sufficient. Doug

When I redid my 1972 trunk using black aqua with a spray gun vs. rattle can paint, I had to let it set up about 2 weeks before I put anything on the trunk floor. It was a water base paint and the cure time required the trunklid to remain open and breath for that period of time to ensure a good bond and cure. It has been over a year since done and looks as new as when repainted. Of course, if you take this approach, don't forget to disconnect the trunk light bulb in the interim or you will have a surprise like I did!!

Thanks for the info Jim. I have a 69 Chevelle Malibu 12 Bolt Posi 331:1 I am putting in my 72 Monte. The axle was actually a non-Posi .273:1 before I added the Posi unit to it. As I had both the metal and plastic tag, I could go either way but wanted to at least give it the correct appearance for the year. You take care as well Jim....... Doug

What style of lubricant plug was used on the rear axle housing for the 72 Monte Carlo? Was it the Male or Female plug? I currently have the Male plug designed for the earlier Posi's with the plastic warning tag on the lubricant plug installed. I'm pretty sure to be correct, the metal warning tag attached to a rear housing cover bolt at the base of the housing. I have both male & female but am not certain which is correct. Thanx for any advise. Doug

The Map Light assembly is removed by gently compressing each side of the map lens housing and pulling the assembly down and out. You must be careful not to compress the sides very hard or the rail on one side or both may fracture or break off where the pressure was applied. Is very brittle after all these years. The bulb removes with the assembly. Replace by simply pushing assembly back into position and again, gently apply pressure to each side of lens and release once secured and thats it!

Hey thanx Mike, I had figured out the Trans mount relocation and the Kick Down Switch, I am swapping out the 10 bolt differential to a 12 bolt posi as well. I do have the driveshaft that came with the TH400. It appears it will be needed because of the differences in the tranny's. I will have to verify the Differential yoke size as I am not sure what tranny was driving it, Thanx for the tip. Trying to avoid any unforseen trouble when I make the swap out. I have determined the bracket photo is the correct one I need. Because the tranny pan bolt pattern is different than on the 350, this configuration will provide the adjustment for correct location for shift cable mounting. Again appreciate the heads up. Would ne a real bummer getting it that close to done and find out the yoke didn't match up! Have a GREAT day Mike..... Doug

Hi all, Can anyone tell me if there is a difference from a TH350 & TH400 Console mounted shift cable? I understand the transmission mounted shift cable bracket is different. Have included a pic to confirm if this is the style I am looking for. Any help greatly appreciated as I am upgrading to the TH400 from the TH350. Thanx much...... I also am not certain if the Drivelines and u-joints are different. I have the driveline that came with the TH400 and if used are the u-joints different than the TH350? Anything else I may have missed or deemed important also greatly appreciated. Thanx for any and all help on this. All have a GREAT day....... Doug