Winston Wolf

yes there is a blue v roof.

The parking brake just pushes your brake pads against the drum, so nothing to wear aside from the normal pads/drums. Probably not a big deal. If you're worried, just pull off the wheel and drum and make sure the pads look ok.

Probably did the most damage to the top of the piston, maybe broke a valve. Oh well, Summer's over now. May as well beef it up now and have it back in full force by spring...

I was going to mention the same thing. If they are a stock type flat top, say 5cc dish with a 58cc chamber, .040 gasket and the pistons are .020 down, that's 11.75:1+ right there with a crap head to begin with. Will probably have no power and ping like a bicycle with a pop can hitting the spokes. If your on a tight budget, maybe trade the 305 heads for some bigger ones at the junk yard or find some old used 400 ones...

You could try Straub, I know the big guys like Lunati or Comp will also make custom grinds. This guy is well known in the speed community, I'd at least call him: Mike Jones Jones Cam Designs Denver, NC www.jonescams.com (704)489-2449 Roller is probably best, but it does cost an extra 500 bucks plus however you decide to do the cam button. Plus you need to think about distributor gears and fuel pump pushrods and springs. I don't think there is the HUGE difference that people lead everyone to believe between flat/roller, you can still make plenty of power either way. Like you said, is 10 or 20 HP worth 500 bucks to you? I don't know, depends on your goals and how you use it. If you go with a roller, you can go bigger than you think and still have the drive-ablity/vacuum/idling.

Worked on the suspension a bit this weekend. I did get the Edelbrock upper control arms. They were the best value in a double adjustable as they included bushings. I also got some Comp adjustable drag shocks for the front. Removed the front sway bar and installed the shocks set to 90/10. Took the 3" spacers out of the springs in the rear. Sits really low in the back now. I don't care for the look. I had to go to town with the grinder to clearance the inside fender lip. I think I will need to take even more out (about 1/2" on both sides to be safe) Street tires are 275/60-15. I decided not to put in the uppers at this point. There is just no way I can get the upper bushings out of the old rear end while its in the car. Plus I didn't have the right extensions for the bolts to the frame, tough to get at. This thing has never been restored so they've been in there for 40+ years. I'll take the rear out this winter and put new lowers and springs in right away. Here is how the car sits now: Here it is with 1" lift. Top of tape is no air in the shocks Probably where it should be: Here is where it was before. 3" up from original springs: I think I may rebuild the front end this winter and lower the front an inch, that will leave me a bit of rake yet. Driving without the sway bar and the 90/10s in, it does float around like a boat.

Steam holes are recommended for all 400 block applications. Use a 400 gasket as a template and drill the three holes nearest the spark plug side of the head straight down, the other three which are very near the head bolt holes should be drilled at a 30 degree angle away from the bolt hole. The center hole will intersect water about 1" down and the two outboard holes to a depth of 2 1/4". Use a 1/8 drill. I would recommend you take it to a cylinder head repair shop or a machine shop. They charge between 40 and 100 bucks to do it. You will need to use a drill press and jig them up somehow if you don't take it in. A couple of those holes are pretty deep and it you break off a drill bit, you'r f'd. Cast iron drills pretty tough by hand, not sure if thats what you have or aluminium?

I would assume those are dyno headers, not what you will be running on the car? I hope you plan on doing a chassis dyno run when you get the car put back together too. It would be nice to see how much you lose when you use the actual headers/exhaust/air cleaner/transmission. My guess is it's going to need at least a 3800-4000 converter. Should run hard from the looks of it. More proof that a small block can make plenty of power. I'm sure you will have fun pulling away from all the 454 guys.

Best thing I ever did to my car was the 200-4r. You will be leaving alot on the table with those gears. 3.73 and 6700 rpms is 150 mph. Some 4.56's will put you right in a happy place. MPH/RPM Calculator Car would be alot faster with something deeper. Then you can get as loose a converter as you need with no worry about driveablity with the lockup. The extra gear and the lockup converter makes it a whole new animal. Just something to think about. Car's all apart, now is the easy time to do it....

Where are the dyno graphs? What trans are you going to run now? Roll cage? Gear change?

A couple other thoughts. Don't worry about the initial timing. Set it by total and it is what it is. The advanced timing at idle will help it run cooler. Usually you want the primary jets about 10 sizes smaller than the secondary jets. If I'm wrong on this, someone correct me. Holley changed the carbs in the early 90's to integrate a check valve that prevents power valve blowouts due to an engine backfire. If your carb is older than that, you may want to install the kit. When you get the idle circuit tuned correctly and have the timing set to optimal, it will not pull the engine down more than 2-300 RPM's. Since yours does, I can pretty much promise you it's not set right. Also if your float level is too high you can get fuel that drips out the boosters, messing things up. May want to check that too right away.

Here is what I would do. With no choke, the car will start a bit harder. Give it a couple pumps of the pedal before you start it cold, and you may have to hold the gas a bit to keep it running until it comes up to temp. To test the power valve, when the engine is running, turn the idle mixture screw in all the way. If the engine dies, the power valve isn't blown. If it stays running, that's one of your problems. I would set the E curve so both switches are on 1. This will give you a K1 curve. 15 deg mechanical advance, all in by 2500 with a 10 degree vacuum advance that starts to come off at 10" and is all off at 4" of vac. This should be close enough to make the car run well. Set the total timing with the vacuum advance unhooked at 35 degrees. At 1000 rpm idle with the vacuum hooked up at those settings it should read about 30 btdc. Set your idle mixture screws with a vacuum gauge tee'd into the vac advance line off the carburator (make sure its on manifold vac and not ported) while it's in gear. A hesitation off idle can be a rich bog or a lean stumble/pop. Are you sure it's idling rich, and if so how can you tell? Just because it smells like gas, doesn't mean it's rich. Good luck.

Use this. Static Comp Calculator Or this but you need to allow for decking in your numbers. Comp and displacement Calculator I'm not sure what you mean by .010 Is that what you decked the block to so the piston sticks up .010 or is it down .010? Either way, just modify the head gasket thickness on the 2nd one to make it correct. Or the first one is better. You are between 10.2 and 10.57, depending on what you mean.

Read the thread guys. It's not a double pumper. It's a 3310 vac secondary....

With that SP2P intake you shouldn't need a spacer plate, but you could use the first one you posted on that if you wanted.

That won't work. You need one of these my man.... Spread Bore to Square bore adapter.

Well, if it's a stock qjet spread bore manifold, you will have to run the adapter plate because the bolt holes don't match up otherwise. No need to overthink things on a stock engine, but an open spacer generally helps the HP on the top end and may reduce some torque in the low/mid range.

That takes off pretty smooth. Did you loosen up the a-arms like that old white Chevelle? You can really tell on that video that the front end goes up and stays up until you're well out of sight. If you don't mind, could you measure the distance from your wheel wheel to the center of the wheel hub? I'm going to try and use that height as a benchmark when I cut down my spring spacers this weekend. How was that thing driving on the road with no swaybar and the 90/10's? I looked at some time slips, the best 60 I have ever had is a 1.701, but most seem to be in the 1.72-1.74 range, not too constant of times. I think this car has enough torque to get to 1.65's pretty easy. This thread is turning from a head cam sway to a how to build the whole car thread....not sure if that matters to people.

3310 is a vacuum sec carb, not a double pumper. Just run it without doing whatever it is your buddy told you to do, if you have it already, it will work just fine. I would not run the spacer on a stock engine.

I think for this year, I'll just get a set of cheap Comp Eng adjustable front drag shocks and set them at 90/10. I'll also use your suggestion of loosening up the a-arms. With those and lowering the rear end 2 inches, hopefully it will be enough for now. I'm going to try and keep the air shocks in until I figure out what ride height I like/works. Just keep them empty for racing. I do drive this thing, so I don't want a total crap handling/unsafe drag only setup. Maybe this winter I'll get the boxed lowers, anti roll bar, and adjustable uppers. We'll see what the cheap route yields first.

It is probably on the big side, but if jetted correctly it will certainly work just fine. You may have crisper throttle response with a smaller carb, but I think people worry about it way too much, as they don't know what they're talking about. If you are ever planning on doing anything to the engine, may as well only buy one carb. Tell your buddy to get a 500 and you get the 750. Then read this article. Carburator Size Testing

Here is a video of one of the 11.7 runs. You can see the car has a jacked up stance. The traction bars are some I made way back in highschool. It looks like it bounces quite a bit on the launch. I'm sure what is happening is if it bounces good enough I lose the traction on the up stroke.

That would be correct. If I ever get the desire to go faster than 11.50, I'll be getting an early 60's Chevy II or one of these... My Monte Carlo is a driver.

[quote=Reds72WMonte Justin, by shift recovery I mean how many RPM's is it dropping between shifts. If you listen to your run you can hear the shift pull the motor down. If you're crossing the line at 6600 (and it sounds great btw) then your peak power should be at 6000+. Does your data logger tell you how many RPM's it's dropping? My ear tells me it's more than about 4/500 which is what you need to keep the motor up at it's peak power during the run. Recovery can be influenced by the converter, a converter that is to tight will pull the motor down. That motor really needs something in the 4500/5000 range to take full advantage of your power curve. Here is my shift log. RPM's is the top black line. You can see the exact RPM drops 1-2 drops 950 rpms, 2-3 drops 1000 rpms, and the 3rd to locked 3rd drops it 340 rpms. You can also see that it looks to flash right at 3500 off the line. I may get my converter retalled up a bit, maybe 3800 or 3900, but if I do it won't be until winter. Not sure if it will be worth the trouble, don't have much room to go any faster. I know people get spooked about high stall converters on the street but you can get a custom one that is spec'd specifically for your set up that can have decent street manners (I use Coan). Have you ever tested the flash? It sounds like it's flashing but it's always good to check it out. Remember, I am using an overdrive trans with a lockup converter, so I can get by with higher stall than most.... I might try and do a few things to the suspension you guys are talking about before the last race day end of this month, but I don't want to spend any more money this season. One thing I did was to seperate the left and right air shocks. I tried putting 30 psi in the right side only, hoping it would act like an airbag. I don't think it's the same... I will get a video up tonight of the launch from outside the car on one of the 11.7 runs so you guys can see how is takes off.

CD, It's a 3500 Precision Industries Vigilante Stall. Precision Converters Not sure what you mean by "shift recovery" I'm not dropping below 5000 rpm the entire run after take off. I'd be happy to hear any suspension suggestions, it's next on my list.