sredmyer

Does anyone know of somebody that refurbishes the air ride compressors?

As the topics says, this post is about exhaust not engines but this seemed like the best place to put it. Anyway, here is the question what headers are folks using in their BBC with auto transmissions? Then what header back exhaust system would you recommend. Looking for something that will provide good sound, fit like OEM and stainless. I plan, at some point, to do a mild build on the 454. Not going for big power, just want it to count a good lope at idle and want an exhaust system that will fit the bill. Maybe I don't even need to go with headers. If that is the case how does that change the exhaust system recommendations? So what do you guys suggest and why? Thanks

Just got the front suspension refreshed...new bushings, new ball joints, new springs, one new control arm and alignment. Still would like to do something inexpensive (air shocks) to raise the rear end a little. I prefer a slight rake to the stance on these long beauties but I don't want to do anything expensive or to permanent as I will be redoing the whole rear end when I do the actual restore. I hope the car is now safe enough to drive around for the summer.

I am trying to figure out how to install an original AM/FM 8-track radio in my car. The car currently has an OEM AM/FM radio but the guy I bought the car from said he thought it originally had an AM/FM 8-track and he include one (green tint lights and very nice condition) with the car. In researching, I have found there is a different bracket for the 8-track radios and I bought one from The Parts Place on eBay here. What I can't determine is where this bracket goes and how the radio actually mounts in the car. I assume I will need to actually remove the dash to do the swap but I was hoping someone (MCFan?) had a write up with pictures.

Change the time zone setting in your profile

That looks really nice. How bad did your engine compartment look when you started? Mine looks pretty bad, well not bad for a nearly 50 year old car but way worse than I would like. I have been wondering how guys go about reconditioning/restoring the parts under the hood. Specifically, how do we get all the fittings on the AC box and lines looking good? What about the brake booster and master cylinder, what are guys doing there to make them look new?

My 70 SS built in Baltimore with AC has the long ones.

Well not today exactly but this past week...I started work on my building/shop which will be the Monte's home very soon.

Thanks

Can anyone tell me what bulb the instrument cluster takes.

Dennis - your situation (2 different cars) has just about convinced me to buy a second car (likely the silver one I found originally). The plan will be to restore this black one to as close to perfect as finances will allow, then I will use the second car to drive and enjoy. This seems like the only way to meet all of my desires. On the one hand I would really like to have a rare car (like my SS) perfectly restored. On the other hand, I want a car I can drive and enjoy. If I am able to get the black SS to the point I want, it will be a garage/trailer queen and will rarely see the out doors let alone pavement. The silver car I originally found would not be a good candidate for such a restore project because it is not numbers matching or documented. That said, it has been previously restored (1993 I believe) and is still in very good shape. It is also very nearly exactly the same as the car I had in high school and has a nicely enhanced motor...will be a lot of fun to drive. I just have to find the funds for the second car. If things go according to plan (they seldom do) I should be able to swing the second car by June then I just have to hope he still has it

That is a truly nice car. I am glad some one from here got it! As mentioned in a previous post, I actually found and bought a triple black 1970 SS. It is a nice car but it is not in nearly as good shape as the one you bought (will need a fair amount of restoration) but like yours it is a numbers matching documented car. While I am starting to question the wisdom of not buying one that was already nearly perfect, I wanted a car that was at least partly a project as I will enjoy doing the work. Problem is I probably will end up with significantly more $$ in this car than I would have had I bought one that was already done.

Paul - Congratulations on the SS. I actually looked at that car back in January and almost bought it but in the end bought one that was a little closer to what I was looking for. Unfortunately for me, it is not any where near as nice as that one. Anyway congrats again and welcome to the club

I have been collecting up parts in preparation for starting the restore on my 1970 SS. While I am not sure I will need it, one part I was able to buy was a roof (with 'A' pillars) that had been removed from a rust free car by drilling out the spot welds. Unfortunately, while the roof is basically clean it does have significant surface rust and grime from sitting around a shop for several years. I know it is likely going to be a while before I get to this part of the restoration so I want to take the roof to a local place that will chemically strip the roof and remove all the rust then prime it for me so it can sit without deteriorating until I get ready to use it. So the problem is the roof has 2 pieces of what looks to be Masonite glued to the inside. What is this board for? Can I remove to get the roof dipped and primed?

Now that there's funny...I don't car who ya are

I agree with Rob...it looks like a 1970 grill to me too.

Very nice car there

Does the build sheet tell when the car was made? I see box 10 labeled "Sched No Date" and the values 02 01-29. Can that be decoded to tell me when the car was built? Thanks

How long should it be if it is for a Monte?

Rodney - what shape were those parts in when you sent them to be plated, was there pitting? Can you say where you took them, the wife's family is in Cleveland and we go there frequently.

I may have one. I bought a parts car that has AC. I am not sure of condition of the compressor as the car has not arrived yet. It will likely be at least a couple of weeks before I will know condition. If you can wait, let me know and I will hit you up when I know something.

Is there any way to restore chrome plated pot metal parts which have pitting such as door handles, mirrors, etc.?

Anyone know of someone (or a shop) that can do the phosphate plating?

Wasn't really thinking of fooling a judge. Just didn't know if there was a difference. My thinking was, if the repro parts are made to OEM specs (most claim this) then what is the difference? Evidently, despite their claims, repro parts are not made to OEM specs. To further discuss your analogy, in the "kit" cars (as I understand it) there is no effort to make "real" replacement parts...just to make parts that look real. In fact the parts in these kit cars are often made of fiberglass rather than metal.

So, I started a previous post with this same topic but I didn't really get the answers I was hoping for so I thought I would reword my question and try again. Are NOS parts better than reproduction and if so why. The question is simple on the face of it but becomes more complex with details. Most of the answers I got to that question previously had to do with quality. While that is indeed an important consideration, it still leaves an equally (in my mind) important part of the question unanswered. That is, would the use of reproduction parts in a restoration devalue the finished product? In other words, if there were two cars both restored to showroom condition and equal in every respect except one was done with NOS (or reconditioned OEM) parts and the other used many reproduction parts, would there be any difference in the value of the cars? If the two cars were both entered in a show and judged would the one using all OEM parts judge higher than the one using reproduction parts? Assuming the answer to both of those statements is yes, how do the judges recognize the reproduction parts from the "real deal" parts? I ask this because while I will likely never enter my car in any of the high end shows, I want to know before I start the restoration. If it makes a difference, and I can afford to do it right, it will be much more cost effective to do it right from the start than to learn after the fact that it does indeed matter and have to go back and fix it. On the other hand if it really does not make much difference, sourcing reproduction parts will be much easier and likely cheaper.