riverdogs00

Happy to. I've actually had this very post/idea in my head for the past 10 years, simply because there is nothing out there on some of these old Factory engines. everyone modifies them, and then, well, its not original anymore.

That it is.

Good morning - I missed this question, and still am learning the nuances of posting and replying - I've primarily just lurked in the past. The engine was the primary focus on this build. I've been looking for one since I fist read about it in a parts magazine in 81' (same year as I saw a picture of the SS 454 monte carlo and knew I would have one some day). I just love old factory muscle (all brands), all of the advertising and claims that went with them, and the whole vibe of that scene. The cammers, super dutys and ram airs, the ardun conversions for the flat heads, etc... Once the engine was acquired, then the search for the right vehicle to put it into went into motion. What I really wanted was kind of a day 2 look. I wanted original paint and interior, and for the car to look like someone had bought a car new, and swapped engines the same year. Tasteful, period correct mods, manual trans, etc. After looking daily for 18 months nation wide, I just was beginning to realize I could not afford what I wanted, and low and behold this 1970 car came up for sale 2 miles from the house. Its been repainted, but is severely faded, and pretty straight and original. It was a 350/250hp / turbo 350 / 10 bot car. Engine and trans out of it, and the guy was doing an LS swap. He wanted 8k. I bought it for 6k, and let him keep the LS, but I took the original drivetrain. Sold the entire drive train to a buddy that's looking for the right body. I decided to go with a 9" rear vs the 12 bolt simply out of cost, and ease of gear changes down the road. Its the only main deviation from the original plan. Its a Quick performance unit with 4.11's, trutrac, 35 spline axles, 1350 yoke and upgraded center section. Disc brakes were added when it became apparent that the drums they provided would have necessitated cutting off brackets and rewelding...then it would have to be re powder coated (well it should anyway). I've replaced the passenger floor pan, replaced all of the body bushings, converted to manual brakes (did not want to run a vacuum pump or reservoir), new wheels and tires, built all new brake lines, removed the AC, converted the pedal assemblies to manual, and am presently going through the column replacing the ignition switch/turn signal switch, etc... I'm maintaining the original interior (cloth bench). Yhe front will have a blanket on it due to wear and deterioration, the rear looks great, just faded. Carpet is waiting to go in, once I get the tunnel cut and hump installed. The transmission is a M23. its an upgraded version of the original M22 purchased through https://midwestmuncie.com/ . presently I am still waiting on this unit, having ordered it in November. They are waiting on the main case from https://www.autogear.net/motorsports/ . The engine is dyno'd and tuned. and ready to drop in, now that I finally have the headers as well. Hopefully the engine will go in, in the next week or 3. the car is just going to be a fun weekend burnout toy, and romp around machine. It runs off of $10/gallon 100 octane I can get at the pump here, so its no highway cruiser. My blue SS454 car is my other weekend cruiser, so will be fun to change it up. Thats where Im at.

Funny thing on the ARH headers. We finished the day, and I wanted to run the engine with the air filters and headers I was going to run in the car. lost 12 HP at 6000 rpm total, and the headers turned gold ha

Yup, I will. He printed a couple of the pulls, then just gave me a thumb drive with all of them, but my pc didn't like 1 of the files and deleted it. Now I cant view any of them. I will take a picture of 1 and load it

Mid 70s 454 LS-7 bought in the original crate a few years back. There are very few videos or information regarding these 50 year old engines. Those that have them, traditionally seem to add roller cams, aluminum after market heads and other internal speed parts. This engine was the successor to the LS-6 found in Chevelle's and Corvettes, and was slated to go into the Corvette. GM killed it due to emissions regulations. Subsequently, these were sold over the parts counter as a Off highway use only engine. GM rated the LS-6 at 450 HP, and the LS-7 at 465. The engine was only offered as a long block, no manifolds, carbs, distributor. This particular engine was located in 2020 still in the factory crate. It was purchased and shipped directly to my engine builder in las Vegas where it was disassembled, cleaned, and checked. We only replaced the following parts as a precaution, and maintained stock level parts for a true representation. Gaskets, rod and main bearings, Valve springs and seals, and rings. The engine received a light hone, but maintains its standard bore, and a light valve job as the valves were exposed for 50 plus years. This engine uses the same solid flat tappet cam as the 427 ZL-1, and was a step above what the 427 L88 had in terms of lift and duration. Parts added to this specific build to complete it were twin Holley 660 center squinters, Offenhauser tunnel ram, MSD E curve distributor, poly locks for the stock rocker arms, and the Edelbrock valve covers. Rated at 465 HP, this engine made 582 hp at 6000 rpm with no air cleaners, and 2 1/4" dyno headers. Installing my 1 7/8 American racing chassis headers (1970 Monte Carlo), and twin velocity stack air cleaners brought the power down to 570 at 6000 rpm. While I realize that this engine was never offered in a passenger car, its unique enough for those that are interested in the Big Block Chevy. Link to the video can be found here:

I found a way to upload to youtube, and then just provide a link. Will create a new thread as it does not really fall into line of this thread and the LS-5.

Group, I'm back from Westech after a very successful dyno session with Steve Brule. I have a few pics, and a few videos. My question is whether I should start a new thread, or just post here. The engine was run out of the car. The issue with the video is size. I have a short 4 second vid that's 16MB, and a longer 15 second vid that's closer to 55MB. Am I able to upload that size here?

I've often wondered what the old engines "actually" make, given the factory ratings were sometimes underrated, or simply rated at a certain RPM, while the engine was actually continuing to climb in power. My LS5 seems to run out of steam closer to 4500. I'm taking my LS7 to Westech on Tuesday for an out of car dyno and tune session, and am very interested to see what it actually does. Let us know on your chassis dyno numbers !

I have a powermaster mini starter on a 454, and with the new ARH 1 7/8 headers mocked up, I found that I needed to clearance the headers to make room where they touched the rear of the starter motor. Was looking for a few different solutions, and ordered this Moroso unit from Summit. I mocked it up, and it looks like it will fit the mini starter perfectly. It has material sandwiched between the two layers of metal, and fits nice and snug. a few pics for reference. I noticed a few mentions of various heat shields, but didnt see a pic - just thought id share. Hopefully will get to Drop the motor in tomorrow to mock up headers / z bar clearance and will look to install this as well.

Succumbing to peer pressure lol. I do not have pics of the starter interference, as I didn't realize it was an issue until I could not remove the rag. Clearanced now at about 1/8", and have ordered a couple of different shield /starter wraps to see if that's going to be enough, or if I have to continue to beat on it. The car is being converted to a 4 speed (M23), and I wanted to drop the engine in for mock up to double check the Zbar location. My hoist (cheapie) does not have enough reach. Even going over the fender with the engine sideways, it was too short. so - off to the metal yard yesterday for some .250 wall square stock that I'm currently grinding trying to get it to fit inside of the the hoist main beam support. I only needed to take off about 1/32-1/16" but its slow going. thats where I am in that process.

I just received my 1 7/8 set after being on order for 3 months. Minor clearancing needed at the mini starter, but they look great. They are going on my LS-7 which I hope to test fit into the car today.

thats likely it, some sort of overdrive. interesting

Group, a little OFF topic, but the question came to mind while perusing the various lots at Mecum/Kissimmee auction brought up by this thread. Have any of you ever heard of a " Sure Shift" modification, like is found on this Chevelle? https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0123-539129/1969-chevrolet-chevelle-baldwin-motion-phase-iii/ I'm very familiar with the Motion/Yenko/Nickey type cars - just had never heard of this, and what I believe to be the accompanying lever on the trans hump.

I do not know that my spring is original - its just what was on the car when I bought it 6 years ago

that would be awesome, but it wont be part of engine masters ha. I do plan on videoing the pulls

happy to help

This is what I have on mine. Mine is actually one of the Edelbrock quadrajet units (1901 I believe), but the basics are the same.

I'm still vacillating. The car is not a resto, just trying to keep it simple and something that does not have a lot of newer a/m parts on it. I need to look at my ss, and see what I have for valve cover clearance, as I have taller, old vintage cast covers on the new motor. If I have booster clearance, then maybe a vac pump. I know I could go to a newer dual diaphragm booster, but would rather not. Its all personal preference. My SS I've left stock, and resisted adding any A/M parts to it. It runs and drives great. This one, is more of a toy - The kind of look I enjoyed as a kid. We will see. On a positive note, I'm taking the engine to Westech in mid February and have Steve Brule dial in the carbs and tunnel ram, and put it on the dyno. Should be fun.

All good info - thank you

I have 2 cars. This one is a mid 70s LS7 454 / 4 spd conversion. Its not going to be a daily driver, but rather a weekend cruiser / occasional strip car. I wanted to keep the underhood reasonably period correct.

Thank you much. Now contemplating just going manual. I have to replumb the lines to eliminate the residual valves. If I stay power, I have to add a vacuum pump, or can just swap to manual and avoid that cost.

Do you need to remove both residual valves when converting to 4wh discs? I realize you need the correct master and distribution block. Do you know if you can removed the internals of the valve to maintain the stock appearance and lines?

I follow Engine masters, roadkill and roadkill garage on the motortrend app. I'm in the middle if scheduling my LS-7 for a visit to Westech to help dial in my tunnel ram, and see what this motor ACTUALLY will make.