mymontesa70

thanks Murphy that's just the info i needed. i'm pretty excited i think the posi and different gears will make a world of difference for my car. since i'm swapping the whole carrier do i need to worry about things like pinion depth, bearing preload and backlash? i know it can get pretty in-depth (no pun) once you get in there. i've never messed with any of this stuff before. any special tools? am i fine to go with jegs or summit or do you think i should talk to a shop that specifically deals with rear ends? thanks again any and everyone

its probably been asked on here many time but i cant seem to find it. ive got the standard 12 bolt 2.73 open diff and i thought i remembered reading that you can just pick up a series 3 carrier and swap it in. does this sound right? im sure someones done it before. 3.73 or 3.31's anybody know what the spline count is? i dont know if it 28 or 30 i would probably want to get a rebuild kit as well assuming my axles are in good shape. would i have to look into a new drive shaft? or do you think it could handle the speed of more revolutions thanks as always, this place is a wealth of knowledge

ditto to that. not a problem in like 12 years

omar right on i cant wait to see you finish. im a couple summers out with my other projects and how much i change my mind on stuff involving my builds. are you still looking for gauges? a lot of guys here run dakota digitals. pretty much a direct swap plug and play especially with the ls. doesnt look out of place either. they are not cheap though! i waited for car craft show to come around and i bought mine right there for 700 something. i think they are almost 900 msrp http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=803/prd803.htm

timing chain covers tend to leak on the 350's as well. i know yours is freshly rebuilt but you never know. theres a easy fix and a not so easy fix. depends on how deep you want to get

hey Ryan did you happen to get those arms through speedway motors? im curious becuase ive nothing but good things. especially recently (past 2 years) it seems suspension companies even the over seas stuff has really come along way

Clearly I was reading that wrong. Back to craigslist

am i reading this right? http://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/2790/70-CHEVELLEMALIBUEL-CAMINO-BUCKETS---BLACK/detail.html http://www.tmiproducts.com/products/1970-chevelle-sport-seat.html for 400 i can have bucket seats? if thats the case ive been doing this all wrong. i almost just pulled the trigger on a set of recaros out of a cobalt ss for 500. cool seats and all but they wouldve looked way out of place. i just figured it was the cheapest option.

I can't give much advice as I've never had ac. I will say half the fun of hot rodding is when you have to just make stuff work sometimes

i really like this write up as it seems to be non objective. http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/blog/rubber-v-polyurethane-suspension-bushings/ check out the diy on installing rubber without a press. i like the dry ice method better.

honestly i just always thought they looked "racecar" but there's also a lingering paranoia that ill drive my car somewhere, say take the wife out on a drive and go to dinner and come back out to the dreadfull dead battery becuase of some drain. i guess i dont need one and ill just chance it. life's an adventure right?. now im paranoid about theft. looks like a ignition cut off is in my future

nice walk through.

wow that is going to be one bad mofo. appreciate the pictures and build updates as i am also in process of a lq4 - 4l80e swap. really appreciate the header tip, im trying to save a buck wherever i can.

Hello fellow first gen family, I'm Putting a battery disconnect switch on and i wanted everyone's opinions on where to put it. inner fender? wheel well? maybe in the grill or remove a bumper bolt and use that location? Ever put one in? where did you put it? thanks

i remember having similar issues years back. i belive what i ended up doing for a fix and piece of mind was making a big ground loop. starter- battery-block-frame-trans. im not saying its a fix but its cheap insurance and takes maybe 30 minutes

agreed to all. especially the get what you pay for part. there are a few deals i trust like the right stuff drop spindles seem to be pretty decent. i forgot to add im going with poly for tranny mounts but rubber for the engine. i figure i dont want the tranny twisting and i dont want the motor to shake every nut and bolt loose. seems good in theory. thanks for the links, honestly seems really reasonably priced for what you get.

Sam, Larry and Rob that is exactly the advice i am looking for, thank you. i will forgo the drop springs and just get the stockers. Springs are pretty cheap anyway so its not a huge deal and hit to the wallet to change them out if i decide i do want to drop the car on a later date. Same with poly, ill go rubber bushings and poly on the sway bars as per your suggestion Sam, id rather be happy with my monte now and if i decide to go autocross in the future deal with it then, that would be a minor dent in the wallet compared to some of the other investments autocross requires. any advice or reviews on where to source parts? does umi even sell rubber bushings with their kits? i suppose i can head back through the forums and find out the crowd favorites there.

I apologize in advance for the lengthy post and many spelling mistakes. Short story goes... have a 70 monte with a bench seat and a 350/350 set up that i bought when i was 17 and have general emotion for. waived back and forth on what powerplant to build but finally ( thanks to the gurus here) bought a big block and started a 496 stroker build. dumped a bunch of money into that and then remembered i have a wife finishing school along with my 2 year old son and very near future plans to upgrade to a bigger house(garage) so it just kind of sat there.. any way buttoned all that up recently and after reading countless forums and sleepless nights decided to really dive in. Sold the big block, sold the 350 set up, sold anything i could sell and now i have a lq4 with a 4l80e sitting on the stand ready to be torn apart. (rather now then later i figure im this deep in it already) So, on to why im posting in suspension. mine is shot (all of it) and the snowballs a rolling so i wanted your expert monte advice on what to get. "whats my purpose" thats a harder question then most will admit. in my head im like " yeah i totally want to get into auto cross and go race my race car, ohh or drag racing i want that too." but really truth is i want to just have a solid setup . autocross and drag racing may come later and ill take out that second mortgage when it does, but for the time being my real goals are just to go to meets and car shows , finally make it out to a first gen meet and just cruise around with the family and stomp on it once in a while. so im thinking billstien shocks, hotchkiss 1 inch lowering springs, i already have a set of air lift 1000s in the rear, bushings and a nice set of beefier sway bars. QUESTION IS .. do tubular arms have any real advantage or are they just pretty? becuase thats $500 i could not spend, but then what if i get everything in and set her down and go " damn i wish i wouldve gotten those tubular control arms" . Im going poly bushings ( i know you guys have a strong hate for them) but i figure technology has come along way and if i grease and install properly the first time ill be a happy camper. where do you guys recommended i get sway bars and control arms from ? im willing to bet half of you have done a suspension overhaul at some point. anything you would do different? anything else you would recommended while the car sits lighter? im not completely sold on the 1 inch lowering springs because i have this nagging fear it will be too low. i know i sound like a teenage girl but i have a hard time pulling the trigger on stuff ( see above mentioned motor) even though i can usually sell it if i change my mind and break even overall. i guess it boils down to this, i am pretty confident around motors but completely uneducated when it comes to suspension and i come here seeking your monte wisdom, thanks in advance as always.

thanks for the responses. i appreciate it

does anybody have a concrete answer on 906s vs 062s ? you can google it for days but there are a ton of conflicting answers as to which is "preferred" . just kind of want the piece of mind of knowing im doing it right the first time. thanks as always,

Ryan I too got my hydro boost from a junkyard astro, so far not a huge loss if I decide to for go the project. I know theres a specific way to bleed hydroboost systems not sure if that's what you did or not http://www.larescorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Hydroboost-System-Bleeding-Instructions.pdf

yea I know im deep in the history but im at the polly/rubber crossroads myself and was wondering if I could get some recent results/opinions. I always thought poly was supposed to be an improvement over rubber? everyone seems to hate it. If im going to be a weekend autocross racer wouldn't I want poly?

oh those are pretty, that's enough right there to convince me to bust out the credit card.

Sounds like you got a screaming deal. Let me know when your ready to dump your old setup I might be Intrested

Wow, that's one of the better write ups I've read, kudos to that guy. Once again not to rain on anyone's parade but I read that are only two locations that work when adding a return line to the stock ps pump. I believe they are roughly the 7 o'clock position or 5 o'clock position. I could read good and bad reviews all day, I think I need to just dive in and do like I've always done. Pretty sure I'll be really happy that it stops at all