speedfreak71

Thanks Guys !!

Anyone have a place they prefer or recommend or thoughts on who to avoid ? thanks

Thanks for the info guys. I'll give that a shot. Heckeng- My monte has the slip type and I'm wanting to put in a overdrive and would like to upgrade the cross member to a solid bolt in type like the chevelles have

Where is a good place to get a chevelle cross member from ?

I know there are several good pumps out there. I like the magnaflow with the filter built in. I have and several of my racing buddies ( the ones that still run nitrous) run the magna flow 500 pump for 10 years now and to my knowledge only 1 has been rebuilt. As far as regulators go everyone including NOS gurus that build systems all swear by the regular holley 12-803 regulator. As a side note it isn't recommended using a pcv set up when using NOS. You don't EVER want to contaminate the incoming fuel and NOS with oil. CONVENTIONAL Oil burns and when hit with a highly combustible situation ( which is nitrous. A controlled explosion that hits the intake at -128 degrees ) the oil can act like a torch right through the piston. World renowned Engine guy Tony Bischoff owner of BES engine service told me that's exactly why he runs a GOOD synthetic like royal purple. When it does get by the rings and into the cylinder it won't burn.

Gee never heard that 1 funny man. #KneeSlapper should be your name instead of newtimer

I agree with jim. Depends on what pump you go with. 150 isn't much and that stuff is addictive. If you EVER think there is a possibility you will go with more you should set it up ONCE and build it with the possibility of advancement. I have a MagnaFuel pump because they are very reliable, made for continuous use and have a built in by-pass. Use 2 regulators. I'm not a fan of dead heading the regulator because the pressure will climb. Put a valve in line so you can shut it off in case of emergency. (Has saved my butt on many occasions. Like when the solenoids get stuck on) Always keep pressure off the NOS solenoids by use of a purge. They shouldn't see pressure until right before you use it then purge it right back off after words. I do so after I pull the shoot. Will get a lot more use from the solenoids if you take care of em.

Fuel pressure doesn't really work like that. In race engines pressure is around 7 to 8psi to the carb. Stock carb engines run around 3 to 5psi. Holley's can only handle 9 to 9 1/2psi. High Pressure pumps are only used to be sure there is enough volume to be there when you need it and a regulator is used to hold it back down to 7 psi. As far as intakes are concerned, ever see a sb2 intake or a sheet metal Intake? They are very tall. The concept is the taller/longer runner has more time to atomize the fuel and air better which is essentially what the idea is for spacers. Every engine is different and you can never tell if yours can gain by using 1 unless you try it. With that being said Patrick James of Pro Fuel Systems has told me that if you engine picks up with a spacer your carb isn't tuned right for the car.

Don't forget to post pics of your progress for us. Good luck

You made the right decision and did a good job doing your homework. You won't regret it

Looks like your trying to build a camaro the hard way. By useing a monte LOL

Isn't this a Monte Carlo forum ?

Seems a little high priced for a 10 bolt. There are plenty of chevelle and monte 12 bolts still around. They are stronger and help the value of the car. The last 2 I've bought for $250 a piece. I found a aftermarket posi on the net for $235 shipped and found some used 3.31 gears for $50 and have been very happy with it. And the 12 bolt just looks MEAN Just my 2 cents worth

Love the new wheels Ian ^ I changed the oil and adjusted the dead spot out of the carb and DANG !!!! I can't wait to go cruising tomorrow !!!!

Don't forget when you replace it to use teflon paste to seal it up

Me and the wife took the monte out for dinner and a short cruise. Always turning heads wherever we go

Went for a cruise today with mine. Played all over town and stopped by the drive in for a vanilla Dr.Pepper

First off I don't think there is such thing as a dumb question. A big block is a sensitive creature compared to the small block. More time is taken to be sure the cam,valve train,and oiling system are spot on. The valve train is MUCH heavier and is a durability flaw to pay attention to. That's why a roller is SOOOOO nice. Everything is made to take the weight/pressure. I favor Comp Cams since they are the industry leader on new technology. PLUS There are PLENTY of people/dealers in this economy that will sell them to you at close to there cost just to keep there "special" dealer discount. I have priced the cam lifters and springs and my buddies have gotten the same Hydraulic roller set up for $800. I'm not bashing the Lunati stuff I do own and have owned plenty of there stuff and been very happy. Just custom roller stuff it comes down to $ for me. Also A few things to pay attention to would be. MOST of the time the roller requires longer valves and if you do plan to spin that 4 inch stroke crank to 6400rpm I would consider buying an aftermarket set of rods as cheap insurance. Seen plenty of broken factory rods on the street. I make it a hobby to buy things and find things as cheap as possible. So I'm a sucker for used aftermarket aluminum heads. The weight savings alone (like 70lbs) will make an ET difference. Plus they are much easier to repair. If I take my 383 out of the monte I am piecing together a 496. I have some forged pistons already I found on the net. A New cast crank is only like $250 $300 and no matter what it will make PLENTY of torque to pull my big ol' cruiser around I still run the zinc additive, its not just for cams but all metal friction issues like bearings. And X2 on the smith brothers pushrods. Make sure the oil pump is matched to the pan. If its a stock pump and pan no problem but I wouldn't recommend a bigger better pump with out a bigger better pan. Good luck and keep us posted

I own both but like most have said here I am impressed with the HEI street version in my monte for its simplicity, reliability and nice options.

.050 was they same measurement for both intake and exhaust?

Took her out and went on a poker run with the car club and did a few burnouts

Posi tracs are all over craigslist and a new disc brake set up is only a few hundred. No need to swap to a weaker rear end

If you liked your headers and they have no problem you could do as I did and just send them off and get coated. Mine were VERY rusty but solid with no dents. They are hookers and have a very nice thick flange at the head. PC coatings blasted mine and baked them before coating to get them all cleaned up. They are done inside and out and shine great. Shipping and everything was done for $200. It really helped a lot on the under hood temp. I think with a X pipe you will be happy with whatever muffler you decide. The ignition I tend to have a different point of view than most. Having been a racer for years I have had my fill of ignition related problems. So on a driver I tend to keep it simple. I think MSD is the BEST so I run a billet ready to run distributor that has a better coil and ignition module. I don't have any BOX on it as I feel for a driver I'm not gaining anything performance wise to justify the cost and maintenance. My experience has shown that the HOT MSD spark is harder on plug wires, cap and rotor.Making there life span much shorter plus I have NEVER had a box that I haven't had to replace at least once. And I have owned them all with the exception of a MAG. Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck on your project

Anyone know how much a fiberglass hood will save on a 71 monte?