LS5

Hey Scott once again all the SB A/C stuff ....alll the brackets Wont fit either just the Compressor....we did Vaughns swap over and Roys and small block brackets def Dont fit BB and we had to search Ebay and high and low for the correct brackets.... Darren,.

Hey Scott, Sorry I have to disagree with Andy. My pullys from the 350 look simular to the ones on my 454 but are definately different. I know you just asked about pullys but the Alt brackets are different for sure on both of them although you can use the alt for sure and the PS pully is the same but once again as Andy did mention the PS brackets are diff too the SB wont bolt up. I do have the tall water pump on my 454 without A/C and that pully is definatly different than my small block one and my Crank pully on the SB has 2 gooves where as my BB has 3 grooves in it..... Darren. PS the bolt holes on my water pump dont allow the sb pully to line up and both are 70 blocks.....

Hey Kyle, so your in Alberta eh....Hmmm anyways, the woodgrain overlay in the 1970 was held on with strips of what they called Dum Gum and had tabs that curled around the heater switch cluster and in the corner of the Amp Gauge or Alt Gauge in the left corner and then down by the steering column cover that could all be bent back and pull the panel off slowly, In the early 71 models they still used some Dum Gum but then switched over to drilling various holes in the dash itself and attaching butterfly clips to the back of the panel which went through the holes to hold the panel on and all 1972's had the clips as well so when the panels were removed you had these 7 holes scattered everywhere......so if your monte is a 70 good chances are its held on with dum gum and corner clips... Darren.

Hey Dennis, Just a guess here.... The Gas Tank itself has 2 Metal straps that run from front to back holding the tank up... Check to see if the bolts are tight and the fact that the straps are suppose to have rubber channels that wrap around them to stop vibrations and the top of the tank has about 4 compressed Carboard blocks to stop an annoying howl that can arise if they rot away so check those areas that maybe it and it simulates your sound even sitting still and idleing the tank still vibrates.... Darren.

Hey Murray, from what I know of which is not gospel but my 2 cents worth is on such rims like the 15x8 or 7 vette wheels there were markings sometimes in the form of letters or numbers by the lug holes on the rims, or like the Z28 or chevelle SS wheels there were markings around the valve stem holes and also on the inside when the tires are dismounted they are stamped where the two halves meet or seem lines. They will say where they were made like Canada or the USA and also the size ie 14x7 or 15x6 and then the Catalouge company name such as Canadian Wheel or Wheel Vintiques or Coker or ?????? I think seldom did they have marks on the backside of the rims by the lug nut holes but I thought I had heard some where rarely marked there... Darren.

Hey Dave , that is exactly where I was going to look and suggest next was Nasty Z28...... Did you get off the site the Valve stem hole info..?? The Z wheels that have the round hole around the valve stems are rims that came from the 77-81 Z cars and the Oval hole around the stems were the correct Dated wheels for the Elky's and 71-72 chevelle SS cars and of course the Z28 also... Darren.

Hey Daryl, sound like the boys have come up with a bunch of ideas that are all ligit and worth checking. My 2 cents worth, if it's kind of shoveing or grabing as it were on the one side more times than not by the sounds of things, my strong guess is a rear wheel cylinder that is giving up the ghost and is sticking....other guesses could be a broken spring inside the drum and the one pad grabs in reverse...or Worse case the axle seal is gone and diff fluid has leaked into the drum and contaminated the brake pads and they are grabing.?? check for fluid seeping out of the bottom of the drum and down the wheel onto the ground that is the dead giveaway.... Darren.

Hey Shawn, yes you were right the Monte was the luxury mans car and the Chevelle was the step down...Yes Rod and Vaughn you heard the Chevelle guy say that so print it off and frame it...hahaha... I have only seen a handful of Monte's with drums But Power Steering was not a full time given as I have seen in person a Documented 1971 Monte Carlo that is a 402-4spd car that did NOT come with power Steering and also to boot it didnt have a 7 blade clutch fan either it had a 4 blade fixed plate fan, with no rear sway bar or boxed control arms too..... Jim, the hand full of monte's I saw were like 5-1970's that had Drums and 1 1971 also but had a real ggod feeling someone might have swapped those disc's off the 71 and put drums back on in order to put them on a Chevelle.....Those Damn Chevelle guys anyways.....hahahaha Just for the heck of it I checked my 15x8's out in the garage and three have the same code and the forth doesnt match but here is another good one the single that doesnt match says it was made in the USA and the other 3 say they were made in Canada.....better have that single one made in the USA checked out to make sure it's not Bent......hahahahahahahahahahaaha....love pokeing fun...have a great weekend guys... Darren.

Hey Jim I believe you are right... as the Chevelles didnt all come with disc brakes other than the convertibles and BB cars,besides the Elky and wagons... some of the 15x7's and definatly the 15x8's had diff codes and offsets like the 4-3/4 backspace and even the 5" ones floating around for the Vettes,the chevelles had either 14" drums or disc brakes due to a factory tiny 14" wheel until 71 onwards but the vette I believe already stepped up to 15" in 70 rather than 71.... Darren.

Hey Michael, here is a list I found a while back...If you look 3/4 of the way down you will see your FW you are after....hope this helps.... Darren. GM Rally Wheels ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- XA 14X5 BS-3 1/2 67 Chevy II with drum brakes DA 14X5 BS-3 7/8 67 Chevy II RALLY with disc brakes DG 14X6 67 Camaro & Chevelle with discs brakes XB 14X6BS -4 3/8 67 Chevelle SS, 68-69 Chevelle with F-70 Tires, 70 Chevelle XN 14X6 BS-3 3/4 68-69 Camaro & Nova with drum brakes. Different shaped outer AE 14X6 BS-4 3/8 70 Chevelle Station Wagon XG 14X6 BS-3 7/8 68-69 Camaro with discs brakes, 68-70 Chevy II/ Nova with disc brakes, 69-69 El Camino without disc brakes. Wider drop center than normal DE 14X6 BS-4 3/8 71-72 Nova & Chevelle, 6 hole wheels YW 14X6 BS-4 3/8 Exactly like XB, may have come on same cars YJ 14X7 BS-4 3/8 69 Camaro/ Chevy II L72- ZL1, 70 Nova AV 14X7 70-72 Camaro, 71-72 Nova, 6 hole wheel XT 14X7 L72- ZL1 Non Rally Wheel YA 14X7 BS-4 3/8 69 Chevelle SS Wheel AO 14X7 BS-4 3/8 70 Camaro &69 Chevelle SS Wheel DB 15X5 67 Passenger Cars with disc brakes. DF 15X6 BS-4 1/16 67-68 Camaro Z28 DC (BIG) 15X6 B-3 1/2 67 Corvette, No other stampings on rim DC 15X6 BS-3 1/2 68-70 Passenger car, 67 Passenger car (early models) FI 15X6 BS-3 1/2 68-70 Passenger car, 67 Passenger car (later models) Riveted instead of welded together YS 15X6 BS-3 1/2 68-70 El Camino FW 15X7 BS-4 1/4 71-up most any GM AG 15X7 BS-3 3/4 68 Corvette (will take 15x8 Beauty rings) YH 15X7 BS-4 1/4 L72- ZL1 Z28 Rally 69 narrow drop center AD 15X7 BS-4 1/4 L72- ZL1 Z28 Rally 68 wide drop center AV 15X7 70, 71, 73 CAMARO Z28 5 spoke wheel AZ 15X8 BS-4 69-82 Corvette Here are a few extra notes: *BS-Backspacing * All the rally wheels made in 1967 have big marking letters, no date code, a little bit different shaped center and slightly bigger holes in the center. * The 15x7 beauty ring will go on all the 15x6 wheels. * All the hubcaps interchange with each other.

I couldnt resist this one on Ebay just now...Was listed for 6 minutes and at $4.95 should be a good read, says the date was 1999...I will post more info and pics when it arrives..Monte Ragtop sure would be nice to ever get confirmation that at least 1 or 2 are hideing somewhere eh.??? Darren.

Hey Scott, Thats a Great link that Bruce has passed onto you...Those lower Balljoints have to be pressed out, your not gonna get em by a hammer or pliers squeezing them out. The uppers are completely diff, you can drill out the factory rivits. One last key thing when putting it all back together only tighten up the upper and lower bolts just over hand tight. if you crank them all up as you put them in you will not be able to set the correct Ride hieght or the "Z" height as they call it on the front end... Darren.

Hey Scott, Welcome to the Madness here at FGMCC..... Dont forget to post some pics when you get a chance we all love to see pictures here and to give Newbies a rough time.....hahaha, unless you own a Chevelle the rough times come naturally so my brothers tell me here....lol. Anyways I believe your gonna hear and see that most of our cars came with a Semi Gloss or Semi Flat Black underside on the hood, the preference on the finishes seems to be by choice. I have seen some cars though that have had the factory color follow through to the underside but once that color hits the second braceing skin that was tac welded onto the hoods is where it changed to Black and then had the hood insulation added or in some case's removed as they love to be a dust and dirt sponge... Darren. PS. Dont forget to Anti up on the $25 for a membership it will be one of the best $25 spent.........

Hey Scott, I went with a complete Pertronix distributor and HEI guts and Pertronix 65,000 volt coil all for $260 in the chevelle which has a 454 in it and retains the Factory OEM look even on the coil once the pertronix stickers are pulled off. Darren.

Hey Jim, are you sure it's the rims.? how about the tires, sure they are steel belted radials but they still have nylon and polyester cords in them on the sidewalls and shoulders. Maybe the tires that were on the rear either one or both have some nylon cords that are broke or even a steel belt in the treat that has let go and the rest is still holding things together but causes a Thump or vibration....usually called cupping or seperated.??? Just my 2 cents worth... Darren.

Those backs are def 15x8's and the fronts not too sure...measure how far the derby centercap is flush from the outside of the trim ring in on the back and then the front if it is the same then 15x8 all around other than that they are 15x7....plus the beauty ring is wider on 8's the offset is usualy 5 inch... Darren.

Hey Phil, Sam is right that 10 bolt should be ok, it depends on what coin you are looking at to put that set up in? as it might be better to run a series 3 gearset in a 12 bolt...I have a 454 and a M-21 and a 331 12bolt rear and all is good especially on the Highway driving plus thats what is on the build sheet too..If you think you are going to want to have some get up and go more often that what you thought at first it doesnt hurt to go 12 bolt and a swaybar with boxed control arms that way you can let the grrrrrrrr out.... Darren.

Hey Rob, I have the same problem in the Chevelle from time to time and it is a 454 that is bored out too, and everything is brand new. I am now looking at a 4 core Aluminum rad as Vaughn has one in his 502 car with electric fans and all seems to run just fine in that and Vaughn does run it..you can paint it Black to look OEM as I am certain I will have to do that as well....so maybe Aluminum is the way to go with the Big Blocks...??? What do you think Davey..??? Darren.

Hey Phil, What was wrong with the Factory Chrome ones'.?? I have no problems with mine and they have the Factory drippers inside them too and clear my booster on the 454.... Darren.

Great Steve....Greg is right a 275 60 15 will fit just right under there with no rub but because as you mentioned the 60 series in that 275 range will look big on a side view and make the rear end look like it is sagging or sitting to high up into the wheel well, yet the 295-50-15 makes it look great in the wheel well and you cant mistake that kick butt look on those boots from the rear end but they do rub like on my 72 monte did unless you trim as you said. The 295-50-15 fits on the 70 chevelle perfect with no trimming only because the rear quarters bulge outwards yet the monte is more flush.. If you are after a 50 series still Steve have you thought of the 245-50-15 or 275-50-15??? it is an old school size and not a lot of tire makers make it anymore but if you go onto Ebaymotors and enter the size I mentioned you will find them for sale from time to time but not to often, and you may go that way with a 235-60-15 on the front or ??? Tire Rack will have the tire size chart to help out with the numbers you are seeking.......just my last 2 cents here Steve thats all....... Darren.

AWESOME Dave, great picture, good luck and do us proud and have fun doing it... Darren.

Hey Willie, another spot you might wanna check for either a VIN or GM part number would be the rear of the rolling chassis, the crossover bar at the back that holds the rear horns together sometimes have numbers on the rear pass side...side of the frame as if you are squatting down looking at it straight on.....And Yes Vaughn is correct too as I have seen some that dont have any and including the car he speaks of that he worked on...so both instance's can be the answer.... Darren.

its all in the negative offset of the rim Steve...the factory 4 1/2 backspace wont work you need I think a minimum of 5inch backspace or even a 5 1/4 to make sure...

Hey Steve, I ran 15x8 corvette rallies on my 72 monte with a 295-50-15 TA and they rubbed...the wheel well lip had to be cut almost flush or right off for them to work and I wont do it again as the rear quarter lost its strength around the wheel well lip and started to ripple after a while.... Darren.

Ok so now I am scratching my head big time as my Big Block fan shroud in the chevelle that is a factory LS-5 454 looks nothing like a small block or big block Monte fan shroud..