ddiddle

Dropped her off at Kennedy Performance in Lexington today to get to the bottom of this noise. I'll keep you posted. He's not thinking cam, so we'll see.

After tonight, I have working horns for the first time. Sounds great!

Bill and Tony, OK, changed them to Non-floating images. Still looks fine to me. How do they look to you Bill? Any better?

Well, I got a couple hours in on the Monte today. After installing an uncut dash last year, I finally installed an AM radio to fill the hole and prepped the glove compartment for installation of the CD player. I also cleaned and restored one of the lap vents (with pics to prove). Then, I tore the steering column apart, fixed a broken spring and a horn wire in there, and managed to get it all back together with everything working. The one thing I couldn't put back yet was the steering wheel. I need a new nut since whoever put this after-market wheel on used a lug nut to install it, and the lug nut is too tall for the horn button to seat properly. I'll have to go to Fastenal or some place like that as none of the hardware stores or parts stores here seem to have one that will work. Finally, I took some Lucas Slick Mist and shined the outside up a bit. At least it will look nice when it goes to Kennedy Racing this week for them to check out the ongoing tick. Man, I hope this is not expensive, but I have a feeling it's going to be.

Very nice indeed!

If you keep doing powerslides in soccer fields, you'll likely also need an attorney...

I am currently running (well, I'm not currently running at all until I get this tick issue straightened out) an Edelbrock 650 carb. It runs fine, but my gas mileage stinks. I've been thinking of returning to a quadrajet to improve mileage at bit, and for the sake of originality, and found one here on a local ad. It's a real Rochester and NOS - the original plugs are still on the vacuum ports. It looks perfect inside and out - guy says there's never been gas in it. According to what I've found number-wise, it was a 1979 model, made for a 350 truck, manual trans. Two questions then: 1. What's it worth, realistically? He wants $150.00 or best offer. 2. Would it adequately feed my car for street use?

I think the factory 2 barrel was a 245 HP engine in 71, so you have a bonus factory 25 HP. Never a bad thing!

That would be with the factory 4 barrel, right? It's rarer than the factory 2 barrel anyway. Hey, welcome to the site!

Well, due to past work they've done for me and due to a couple true car guys on their staff, I have confidence in a local Chevy dealership. I took the car to them for evaluation. They're saying pretty much what's being said here - either a collapsed lifter or a flat cam lobe due to improper break in by the fellow I bought the car from. Of course they can't know until tear down. Lifter replacement estimated at $1,100.00. A little more, obviously if it's the cam. I'm wondering if this is the time to go ahead a do a mild warming up of the engine, if half of the upper end parts may be replaced anyway. Any counsel?

I wish it was exhaust. In fact, I was really hoping it was. I've gone over the whole thing with my stethoscope (which looks a lot like a big screwdriver), and it sure sounds like it's coming from within. I also took it to my exhaust guy - we put it up on his rack and he confirmed that, in his opinion, it's internal. I bought the car with the engine supposedly rebuilt and properly broken in. It ran and sounded great up until this spring. I started with the valves because I thought that was the easiest thing to check and correct, but they didn't seem to be loose - loose enough to get clatter anyway. I do confess that I'm at the end of my knowledge and ability though, like that's not obvious.

Well, I've successfully re-lashed the #2 and #4 valves, but the tick is still there. It only ticks after warm up, not while cold. I'm thinking collapsed lifter? Am I thinking correctly? Mike, I might be showing up at your door.

Where's Wheel and his vote for flat?!

We'll keep praying.

I think I'm good...garbage truck came this AM...not a word so far.

Well, I tried something today that I've not done before - adjusting valves using the "engine running" method. After a about 2000 miles, I had one slight tick in #2 and I think it worked. AND, it wasn't that huge of a mess as I thought it might be. Ruined a few of my wife's towels, but if I can get them buried in the trash can before she gets home, I'll be safe. The valvetrain looked brand new, so the guy who sold me the car was apparently honest about the rebuild. The guy who built my car put chrome Edelbrock covers on it. I ordered some stock-looking chromes with all the stuff to go with 'em - fill cap, wire guides, etc., from Classic Muscle/Modern Chevy. I'll get some pics when it's all together.

Very nice. Those dark colors make the skirts look good! Now, about that Dallas Cowboys stuff...

Looks great. Very impressive Sam. What are you using for plug wire retainers? Are they attached to the engine through the valve cover bolts?

Looking good, Steve. I'll have to get some of that stuff from Lowes for under and behind the rear seat.

My top is padded and given the choice, I'd go unpadded. It just looks better to me, but then again, I'm a sucker for OE. My covers are from CARSINC too and they're great, although I must say, I've not once been disappointed in anything I've gotten from Modern Chevy/Oldmusclecars. Does Leo deal in seat covers/tops?

Welcome Jose!

A question - did any FGMC's come with the blue or aqua foil 2" by 2" GM sticker on the driver's door edge? If so, where exactly does it go? What are the color details, year-wise? Any of you who have an unrestored original, could you post a pic of your door edge? Thanks!

What a great idea! Thanks. I used some silicone to fill the bored out holes in the dash - the kind that sets up pretty hard, and after it cured, just screwed into that. I think your idea there would work better.

I remember those Powerbeams Bruce! Man, I haven't seen one of those in years.