mjs-13

The size wheels you have indicated "should" fit. The rear 9.5's should be OK with 5.5 backspace. I would check since a Monte does have as much room as a Chevelle. The front will look better with 8.5's. The 4.5 backspace should be OK however that will depend on the size tire you choose to use AND how low you plan to drop the front. Disc brakes space the front wheels out 1/4 inch on each side compared to drum brakes on an A body. You may be looking at 4 3/4 - 5 inch backspace with 8.5's depending upon the tire height and section width. There are tire/wheel fitment tools available at a reasonable cost of less than $200. Given the fact that the wheels you have listed above show to cost over $1,000 each, an investment in the proper fitment tool would be well advised.

OOPS!

The reason 70-72 Chevelles do not necessarily have F41 on the build sheet or on a car is because F41 was an option on a 70-72 Chevelle and NOT standard equipment as part of the SS option.

I will see if I can get a picture of the 70 brackets. You will pay at least $250 for a set of 70 A/C, power steering brackets brackets. They are the same as Chevelle and that's why they are so expensive. 71 up brakets are cheap.

What Year SS? 70 brackets are different from 71 Brackets.

Jim Mattison who runs Pontiac Historical Serivices (PHS) "was" retained to do any Chevy records that could be found similiar to the Pontiac records. Jim has resigned from the project and no information is forthcoming as it does not exist. A gentleman (Mr. Art Armstrong) on the NCRS board (National Corvette Restorers Society) worked for GM 30+ years. His last assignment for 9 full months was a special project for Jim Perkins, head of Chevrolet at the time. This project was to look through ALL OF GM for any and all records concerning the build of Corvettes at at he St. Louis plant. Mr. Armstrong had 2 assistants and "carte blanch" to go any where in GM to research/find any documentation. Corvette was his main goal however he was also charged with finding any information on Camaro/Chevelle/ Impala etc. from the 60'-70's. HE FOUND NOTHING!!!!! The PHS is NOT build information. It is "shipping" invoice information. Very similiar to the shipping information available for GM Canada built/delivered cars. Art Armstrong will tell that the old build information does not exist for Corvette or our cars. Given the resources/money/labor/time spent by Art and his 2 assistants as their FULL TIME job with expense accounts to travel at will anywhere in GM to search for information, he will tell you the information DOES NOT EXIST! It is still great to wish and hope the information exists. Listed above is verifiable information from someone within GM who was given a special assigment for 9 months by a GM President to find any and all build information for Corvette and other Chevrolet's and he came up EMPTY. The information is gone!

No, that is high. They must have been exceptionally nice. There is a "bolt in" kit available from a company in Minnesota to install power windows. This company also sells reproduction glass. It is complete with switches, regulators and wiring. Everything you need for $499. Given the condition of most USED power window systems. Buy the new kit!

It is "possible" that a late, late, late 71 could have a "289" casting block. Although unusual, I have in my possesion a "289 block installed in a July 71 manufactured 71 Chevelle made in Baltimore. Although unusual, late year production cars many time DO have castning number parts from the next production year model. Remember, althought the assembly plants stopped production in late summer for "refit" of the plant, the parts manufacturing plants were in full production of parts for the "new" model production that's ususally set to begin in early/mid August.

Try a vacuum cleaner repair shop for a new belt. They will be able to match something that will work. This is where I have gone when I needed this belt.

"Anti-drain back" is a wonderful feature that is particularly needed on Buick V8's. What this does is to not allow the oil to drain back out of the oil filter due to a one way valve. Since the Chevy oil filter is vertical, not such a big deal. On Buicks the oil filter is parallel to the ground. It is very easy for the oil to drain back into the pan. When you start the car, the first place the oil heads to is the filter. Many times a Buick will rattle until is gets oil pressure since the filter must be filled with oil to initiate the oil pressure. Technically you could set up a "syphon" situation in a Chevy V8 that could empty the oil filter. The valve would prevent that from occuring.

If it does'nt fit, force it! If it breaks you needed a new one anyway! Take a BIG hammer, hit tailight, break housing, remove 4 nuts holding housing, paint replacement housing, install replacement tailight housing. See, you never needed to remove the backup light lens screws in the first place!

Andreas, Your comment that "systems in Europe are designed to work safely with Duracool" has me puzzled? No matter how good your design, there is no A/C system that "crash proof"! With a condenser hanging out front of the radiator and hoses under the hood, it is impossible to design a system that will no be punctured/compromised in an accident. When the system is punctured, the gas is released. If there is an ignition source, you "can" have a fire. The possibility of a fire is no different with 134 and Freeze 12. Yes, Duracool has a higher flash point and is "more" flamable, however 134 and its derivitives can also catch fire in an accident with the same or similiar source of ignition for the fire. Duracool is legal in Canada and everywhere else in the world. Kinda makes you wonder why not HERE? Maybe there are some patents expiring or the lobbyists for Dupont (134 Patent holder) are better than the hydrocarbon refrigerant lobby in Congress. That's usually the way things work in Washington DC. Global warming and the ozone issue were a big issue with the killing of R-12. Flamability was discussed but that was it. Apparently our Congress and lawmakers are again trying to be big brother and tell us what is best for us and that is 134. We can use gasoline, pump gasoline and spill all the gasoline we want at the service station. Gasoline is as or more flamable than Duracool. Somehow "I" think pumping gasoline is a MUCH greater safety issue than a hydrocarbon refrigerant. But what do I know?

Before everyone get's all upset, you need to look at what all the "substitutes" really are made from. Freeze 12 is 80% R134A and 20% filler. Duracool is a "hydrocarbon" based coolant. 134, Duracool and Feeze 12 are all FLAMABLE! R12 is not flamable. The concern about flamability has do with the gas escapiing in a collision. Sorry to ruin you day however IF you have US or Foriegn car manufactured after 1994, it has 134 and 134 IS FLAMABLE. Some are more flamable than others. The first commercially available refrigerant in the 20's was Sulfur Dioxide (SO2). This is now considered a poison gas. Mix SO2 and H2O and you get sulfurous acid. Example, breath SO2 and the water in your lungs turns to acid. In today's world, not acceptable. Duracool is hydrocarbon based. So is gasoline, oil, plastic and many other things used in the manufacture and operation of your car everyday. Propane makes and excellent refrigerant. It is flamable. I can't recall the make up of Duracool however it probably has a variant of propane in the formula. In Europe, they use hydrocarbon based refrigerants exclusively in vehicles. Hydrocarbon based refrigerants more environmentally friendly and a operate more efficiently that 134. I USE DURACOOL AS MY SUBSTITUE OF CHOICE. Freeze 12 as noted above is just a mixture of 134 and filler to step outside the EPA guidlines. It works, just understand what you are using. The problem in your system will the the POA valve or orifice tube. One, the other or both are probably "stopped up". Before we blame the POA valve I need to know the answer to one question. Did you install a new "orifice tube". An orifice tube is the system filter. Alway replace this everytime you open the system. If you did not replace the orifice tube that may be your first problem. You could also have a stopped up evaporator or condenser. Unusual but not unheard of. A POA valve regulates the system pressure mechanically. Many of the substitute coolants like 134 and Freeze 12 operate at higher pressures. These pressures are higher that the POA valve is set to operate. You can "adjust" ad POA valve a little on the inside with a screw driver. This never did much good for me. A better way to regulate system pressure is to replace the POA valve with a "Old Air Products" tube/cycling switch. This will operate the system pressure more like a modern car. If a POA valve was so good, they would not have discontinued it's use in 1974. A lot of people has had success just changing coolant and the system still works. Usually not as good as R12, but works none the less. Your problem will be mechanical in the system. Your choice of coolant is not the problem.

Yes, in most cases due to flywheel. Could be 153 tooth or 168 tooth.

Go with the 2004R! They run behind 9 second Buick Gran Nationals ALL DAY so they will run behind your car. No Cheaper than a 700R4 but much easier to install. They BOLT in where your turbo 350 now lives. Same size! No drive shaft modification. The stuff about how difficult it is to adjust the TV cable is WAY OVERBLOWN. It's easy, takes about 10 minutes. You MUST follow the instructions and use the correct brackets to hold the TV cable at the carb or FI. NO BIG DEAL! I have tried the 700R4, the Gear Vendors Overdrive and the 2004R in my cars. 200R4 wins hands down from my experience. The 2004R has a deeper 1st gear on lower overdrive versuse the 700R4. Best of both worlds. The Gear Vendors was OK however it is expensive, requires modification of floor pan (depends on the car), drive shaft modification, driver input with a switch. Yes its tough however do you see any race cars running it down the 1280? NO! Lot's of pull trucks and Motorhomes but no race cars so who cares that it holds 700 HP! You have lot's of different opinions here on this subject. YOU need to decide how YOU will drive/use your car. It it's a street cruiser and occasional run down the 1280 for ****'s and giggles, one of the transmissions my be a better choice.

I have seen "289" blocks used in late 1971 production cars such as Monte's and Corvettes. So if you see a "289" block in a 71SS and it is matching numbers, it probably IS the original engine.

Come on Leo, you mean to tell me your not rich with all those parts and Monte's? Just kidding. Your right, I do not know anyone getting rich off of Monte's however I do not know anyone "parting out" nice cars. I believe that a nice Monte Carlo will "part out" for more money than it will bring whole. I am not talking about a junque car. I am talking about parting out a NICE car. Nice quarters, fenders, 454, wheels, tires, buckets, console, dash, frame, brakes, 12 bolt rear, etc. The prices of these parts can easily exceed the asking price of a nice restored Monte. Want TOP DOLLAR for you Monte? Part it out!!!!

Come on Leo, you mean to tell me your not rich with all those parts and Monte's? Just kidding. Your right, I do not know anyone getting rich off of Monte's however I do not know anyone "parting out" nice cars. I believe that a nice Monte Carlo will "part out" for more money than it will bring whole. I am not talking about a junque car. I am talking about parting out a NICE car. Nice quarters, fenders, 454, wheels, tires, buckets, console, dash, frame, brakes, 12 bolt rear, etc. The prices of these parts can easily exceed the asking price of a nice restored Monte. Want TOP DOLLAR for you Monte? Part it out!!!!

Most cars have 1 or 2 "hidden" VIN's stamped in the body. I have NEVER seen a hidden VIN anyhwere on a GM body that was NOT stamped on the cowl or firewall. You will usually find one behind the heater box below the hole for the squirel cage fan. There is also a hidden VIN on the left frame rail. Remember, the above VIN locations I was speaking about concerns the body itself, not the chassis. Rest assured that the lcoation of the "hidden" VIN's is well know and it is VERY easy to cut out and reweld the VIN into the rebody. If you are goinig to rebody a car, all the numbers will get changed. If not, the person doing the rebody is lazy and stupid.

To rebody a car is a VERY easy way to fix a rusted car. It have been done much more often than you think! Removal of the VIN and transferring of the numbers is a Felony crime no matter what your motive. You must decide your own morals and have to live with your decision. Unfortunately for most folks it is only a problem WHEN THEY GET CAUGHT!!! The problem with a rebody is the FACT that at some point when the car is sold the small issue of the rebody is forgotten. It may be the first sale after the rebody or the fifth sale however there is ALWAYS one ***** in the bunch who WILL forget this important detail. This is when the fraud is perpetrated and everyone becomes involved! If you build a rebody and/or sell a rebody, get the buyer to sign a "notarized" statement acknowledging that he "knows, understands, and accepts" that he has purchased a rebodied automobile. That is the only way to get you off the hook in the future. KEEP THAT SIGNED DOCUMENT! A rebody is worth less that a none rebody car. How much? 25% to 100% less. How can it be worth 100% less? Easy, many buyers will not buy your car period because of the rebody. Monte Carlos are TOO CHEAP NOW and there are TOO MANY GOOD CARS AVAILABLE to even consider the purchase of a rebody. If it's "free to good home" maybe. Do not put your hard earned money in a KNOWN problem. REMEMBER, the car you buy today is the car you will sell in the future. You will have to deal with the same issues the current seller now enjoys. I personally believe people buy/build rebodied cars because of GREED! Rebodies are cheaper to buy/build and therefore the builder/buyer can get a better or more rare car that he normally would be able to afford. Besides nobody will know it's a rebody when the buyer/builder is ready to sell the car! Don't be GREEDY!

Yes, it could get out without a VIN stamp. Rare but possible. It is not unusual to see a letter or number updside down in the VIN stamp also. The worker loaded the Gang holder wrong. By the way, if you want to invest in a set of "correct" VIN and Engine stamps just like the "General" used on the assembly line, call Columbia Stamp in Michigan. They were an original supplier to GM. A "complete" set with gang holder will only set you back about $1,500! Of course nobody out there restamps engines in the collector car market, do they?????

Creedog, With some effort you can find a rustfree unrestored grandma car for $2000-$3000 that is usually driving. Remember, you are only interested in body condition. The rest does not matter unless the car you buy is better than the car you have. Then you have to make a choice as to which Monte lives and which Monte dies as a parts car! Kinda turns you into the grim reaper, doesn't it? The best stuff is out West in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and California. Find one were the interior is toast but a nice body. You will not find this type of car from a dealer. You must find it from an individual. Hello Autotrader or make lots of calls to folks out West to look for you and pay a finders fee! This may not sound all that easy or cheap however neither is installing all that sheetmetal. Remember, YOU said you had lots of time to do the sheetmetal work so you could also spend time finding a good body. Good luck with your project!

Creedog, Quarter skins will cost you at least $200 a side plus shipping. If you need quarter panels you WILL need outer wheel housings. They are NOT available in repo for Monte's therefore your choice is to adapt a Chevelle housing or not replace at all. If you need a quarter panel, you NEED outer wheel housings, trust me! GM quarter panels are no longer avaialable from GM so you have to find a NOS "New Old Stock" set somebody has for sale. Last set available here on the site was $1,500 plus shipping. Installation of skins or quarters will be at least $300 as side at a body shop with another $75-100 for the outer wheel housings. A usuable right fender will set you back about $250. You can probably adapt a repo Chevelle lower rear window piece between the trunk lid and the rear window on your Monte. I am not sure if a specific one of these pieces is repo'd for a Monte. Expect labor to be at least $250. You can always do like everyone else and load it up with bondo, kitty hair or POR 15. I am not knocking this approach however it is not correct or everlasting. However, the original GM sheetmetal was not everlasting either! Gee, I just spent at least $1,500 of your money to do the rear body repairs not including the right front fender. Second, how much time and aggravation our you going to endure with your local bodyman when it sits there 6 months with no work. Given your earlier response that you "don't think it's an option for me to form the metal myself", I assume you also will not be able to install the quarter and the piece behind the rear window. This is NO knock against your ability whatsoever as it is a learned skill however I must assume that you will have to pay to have this work completed. Now you see why I suggest a rustfree body may not be such a bad idea. Good luck with your project! Mike

"VIN's" where installed at the assembly plant once the engine was installed in chassis. Assembly procedure dicatated the location of the stamp. Some assembly lines already had installed the alternator "before" the location the stamped the VIN. Therefore the VIN was stamped by the oil filter. Only place left they could get a gang holder to stamp the VIN. The body was not yet installed. This is more the exception than the rule. It is rare to find a Baltimore built car with the VIN by the oil filter. I will not say it did not happen however most all Chevelles/Montes made in Baltimore have the VIN on the engine pad behind the alternator. Kansas City cars and Arlington cars seem to have the VIN by the oil fiter more often. Remeber, these engines were already stamped with the engine code at engine manufacturing plant such as "Tonawanda or Flint". So the inventory of engines on hand where already coded for application. All the workers had to do was pick the correct engine for the build, install and stamp. At this time, engines where not "complete" from the engine plants. By complete I mean that the alternator, brackets, power steering pump etc may/were not installed, therefore this was an assembly plant function. Some plants installed this after VIN stamping therefore the VIN was on the pad behind the alternator. Other's installed the accesories before engine installation in the chassis therefore the only place accesable to stamp the VIN was by the oil filter. GM's "AIM" assembly procdure outlined for virtually all assembly plants was for the VIN to be stamped on the pad behind the oil filter. Another example of the VIN in many cases being by the oil filter are 1969 Z-28's from Norwood assembly. All the other Camaro's had the VIN on the pad behind the alternator, WHY? Only explanation according to the Camaro weenies is the engine accesory installation procedure at that plant for that particular 302 engine. For 350's, 396's ect the VIN is on the pad! Van Nuys built 1969 Z-28's have the VIN on the engine pad! As with many things in GM, there were different procedures at different assembly plants. By "AIM" they were all to assemble the cars the same way, they did not!

You can make a rear window channel with sheetmetal and a sheetmetal break. It's not that hard. Make it in several smaller pieces/weld it in and no one will ever know. An easier way to repair the top of a window is to find a parts car and cut the parts you need from the parts car. While Monte's rust in the lower rear window, upper window rust is much more rare. Finding a donor car should not be difficult. Not wanting to rain on your parade, however if you need this much sheetmetal, it will be cheaper/easier to find a "good" body hull and do a swap. The time you spend traveling to pick up a good body will be shorter, cost MUCH cheaper and the effort MUCH easier than doing roof repair/lower rear window repair/trunk repair/quarter panel replacement etc. Cheap Monte's that are rust free or almost rustfree are still available in the South/West. It is still easier and cheaper to drive 1,500 miles to get a car than all that sheetmetal work. Unless your car is a documented/loaded SS 454, I would give this serious consideration. This will be cheaper/ easier than all the work you have outlined and you can sell the rest of the car/parts to also recoup more of your money. I have built LOT's of A body Chevelles and a few Monte's. My days of quarter panels, roof repair, trunk repair etc are over. It's a little harder to find a rustfree car, but MUCH cheaper/easier in the end. Monte's are not worth enough "YET" to justify a lot of sheetmetal work in MY OPINION! Something to consider?