Murphy

Been doing some distributor investigation myself & thought this would be the proper place to post. I sent an email to DUI after reading there AD in Supper Chevy mag. Here is their response........ 4 REASONS YOU SHOULD DRIVE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF THE D.U.I.-DAVIS UNIFIED IGNITION: 1) Each distributor is actually spun on a distributor machine with a super smooth advance curve. Buying an uncurved distributor is like buying an unground camshaft! A smooth curve insures maximum power and mileage, while eliminating engine damaging detonation. 2) The D.U.I. produces a longer duration spark which allows you to open up your plug gaps to a whopping .055”! Our Dyna-Module and 50,000 Volt D.U.I. Coil work together to give your engine the ultimate spark. A wider gap and a hotter spark leads to more complete combustion. NO add-on spark box is needed! 3) Every D.U.I. is hand-built-not mass produced. Each D.U.I. is individually prepped. Housings are polished and lubed appropriately. Shaft plates are welded for durability. Gears are wire brushed and end-play is adjusted with a feeler gauge. 4) Performance Distributors was the first company to build a performance H.E.I. distributor. In fact, ignition and other electrical related products is all we do! We don’t get into carburetors, rocker arms, or valve covers. Because we are an “ignition” specialist only, Performance Distributors gives you the best possible performance ignition system available anywhere! Thank-you, Performance Distributors(Home of the D.U.I.) 2699 Barris Dr. Memphis, TN 38132 (901)396-5782 www.PerformanceDistributors.com -----Original Message----- From: Murray Rehder <murrayrehder@cox.net> To: info <info@performancedistributors.com> Sent: Sat, May 19, 2012 1:19 pm Subject: SBC 350 Distributor Saw your ad in Super Chevy, then immediately hit the website. Great info! I’m restoring/customizing a 71 Monte Carlo, equipped with a SBC350, TH350, and AC. Good clean car as it has been in storage for 10 yrs. Prior to storage the motor was overhauled and bored to .030 over and the heads were replaced with stock GM heads which are part #333883. Everything else is bone stock. I’m looking to install a set of Patriot clipster midlength headers (ceramic coated of course) and then onto a new HEI distributor setup. I’ve looked over all the JEG’s and Summit offerings, which there are plenty to choose from (almost too confusing) but I’m Impressed with the details you offer on your products. Since the stock setup is original points-style distributor, I’m sure almost any HEI replacement will do wonders. Your part #12720 would be the logical choice. I see HEI distributors from White Performance at $40, Pertronix at $200, Accel at $125 and MSD at $135………..why should I go with DUI at $280?? Are they really that good? Murray Rehder Chandler Arizona

For those w/HEI....what gap are you using?? Factory spec (.035 for SBC 350) or something larger?

I like em' but I chose these from a 70 SS Nova........

I only mentioned removing the existing ww trim was due to the fact that it currently does not fill the wheelwell properly since the other trim pieces are not mounted.......

Not Bad..........Change the front springs to lower an inch or so & IMO, it would look even better.

Hey Austin, welcome to the club! I'd like to see some more pics! It appears the the side marker lites have been filled in already so your looking at a bunch of work. I'd removed the wheelwell trim since it doesn't really fit properly as the side trim is gone...........

Shiftworks has the in-dash tach for $135... http://shiftworks.com/tachs-ss.htm#1970

I had a similar issue years ago with a camaro (standard distributor) and even tho I thought the cap looked OK, there were tiny, tiny little cracks between a few posts.........

Good to know........thanks!

Hey Arron, what do you use to make the hard plastic items look so good (fan shroud, inner fenders, and the hoses)??

Definately pull the motor! That's how I lost my 70 Camaro RS back in 75..............And the entire shop. Small farm town in Iowa and the local welding shop was attempting to fix my oilpan/tie rods after I slid into a ditch one night, but that's a whole other topic! I wasn't there at the time, but he was welding on the pan and we think there was a fuel leak also as it apparently just flashed all over the bottom of the car and due to poor housekeeping in this shop, the floor (wooden bricks soaked in oil)just kept spreading. 2 small fire extinguishers didn't do much good then the tank blew. Lost several tractors, my car, and 40yrs worth of stuff, etc........

Well Mark, I won't be able to tell you how they fit as the guy sold them! We had a scheduled time at noon today to meet, as he is across town, and I called just before I left. That's when he tells me he sold them last nite to his neighbor! What a dick!

That's precisely what I'm thinking of doing. I've owned my Monte for almost a year now and have been concentrating on repairing all the rust issues and I'm almost there but I think I have some bubbling under the vinyl below the rear window (what a surprise)so in planning the vinyl replacement, I'm thinking of covering the entire top all the way to the drip rails and down the A-piller.In visioning the look of the new top is when I really noticed this lack of chrome, cause if I do cover the A-pillar, that chrome piece would definately be needed. I called Joe Vega here in Phoenix and he has a set for the fender which I'm probably get to experiment with..............

Outstanding Dennis! This info/pics are great, as always....

Hey thanks.........local guy here is selling a set for $75, they look really nice in the pic.

Tried to find the dimensions on these headers from the top of the mounting flange on the heads to the bottom of the collector tube. Concerned that they might hang down too far, anyone running these who could give me that measurement??None of the sites list that dimension.

Great detail Dennis! I'll be driving my Monte over next week for you to do it again...........just kidding, April Fools Day. Where did you get the additional fuse block? And secondly, the power feed for that block you mentioned tapping in to the battery feed...where precisely?

Was the lack of the chrome piece on the top of the door on purpose? It seems that it would have been a more complete compliment to the hood trim if it were added?? (yellow circle)

The build sheet already shows "C60 Air Cond" so there was possibly a firewall change in 71? The car was a KC build.

On my build sheet (71 Monte) I show the option "Z14 A/C Body Conv" What is that? This document has the listing but what is it??

Great advice! It's too easy to over think an issue, having this site with experienced folks to bounce ideas off of is GREAT!

Who's headers are U using?

Talked with a guy today who has been rebuilding Muncie's for 30yrs, his comments were that a 26 spline input was 4 times stronger than a 10 spline input shaft. Also, the respective output spline differences made a huge difference in the overall durablility of the tranny. The advice to me was that using a higher splined shaft was definately the way to go since I'm building basically from scratch in a conversion from a TH350. Just wanted to pass along the info..........

Was the 26 spline for the BB cars to due HP & torque??

All good info Dennis, as usual! I have been reviewing Muncie documentation which is widely available, and am wondering which input would be preferred 10 spline or 26 spline? Since I am basically building from scratch......I can do what I want (with a little advice) as I'm told the drive shaft needs to be replaced anyway.