Murphy

Glen, here's a little trick for you to refurbish your old scripts. If the black paint was worn away and you want the chrome letters to pop, use a brass bristled brush with dish soap/water to clean the scripts. this will get any loose paint and grime and leave the metal really clean. Then find a crayon and lightly mark up the chrome surface (top flat portion only, see photo, I used a yellow crayon) then spray the scripts with SEM trim black and let them thoroughly dry for several hours. Using a wooden tongue depressor or something similar (wood only) rub off the waxy crayon which is now black from paint. The chrome top surface of the scripts will now be exposed. Insure that the waxy crayon is only applied on the top flat surface. Good luck!

Glenn, I could be wrong but I didn't think there were nuts on the sail panel scripts. I thought there was only a grommet type device in the sail panel and that the prongs of the script just pressed into them??Someone with a body manual could verify but I wouldn't tear out your interior sail panel panels until you know for sure.............

Paypal request sent. Also emailed some pics............

I've got a set that are in excellent condition as I've repainted & buffed. I'll ship for $40!

Droff........lots of good tips posted here. Take a photos and a little bit of patience. When I did mine last year, it took 2+ hrs to get one of the drums off as a spring had let loose and would allow the drum to slide off due to the groove it had cut into the drum. Clean/paint/lube the correct parts and you'll be good to go for years..........

Surely, there can't be much difference in torque between long tubes & mid-length tubed headers? Am I misinformed?? Shirley

Here's pic to show how low everything is.......................

Hey Jason, I'm running a set of Hookers on a sbc350 w/AC. My only complaint is the clearance for the starter, I had to go with a mini starter and I purchased the recommended AC bracket. I made a slight modification to this bracket also. When I installed the headers, my 71 Monte was an automatic, I have since UPGRADED to a Muncie M20. Nothing like bangin' a few gears! No modifications were needed when making this conversion. If I had to do over again, or should I say when, I would go with mid-length headers vs full length. I lowered the front end a bit and am always worried about the headers hitting something as the collector/flange is the lowest point.

I'll mail one to you for $10, send me a PM so I can get your address............

Roger that!

That was a test.........

I've got a few spares, left-handed or right-handed.......

Just curious.....are the stock axles 30 spline? Is there a difference from big block to small block or whether a posi was factory installed?

I thought I had the same issue, rear main seal........turns out it was a combination of the oilpan gasket and the distributor gasket!

You can order these shirts at http://teespring.com/18436572order I saw the ad on CL last winter and had to have one......$20.

I don't know what all the facts & figures are you stated in your post but I wear this shirt in the garage all the time... The wifes impressed..........that's what counts! I really envy those of you who get deep into the operation of the combustion engine!

Installed the new FGMCC plate I bought from our Store. Nice part, good quality!

Can Sonny also do the conversion on the AMP gauge to VOLTS?

All great info guys.......this would be a long term project as I still have many other things to accomplish on the Monte. I need to do more investigating with a few local builders here in the valley.

Thanks for the response Mike, my goal? Good question? Not a strip car......Just a beefier street car, thought building an engine would be a fun challenge. I imagine that sonic testing, magnafluxing and decking then building from scratch would get quite pricy and your correct...I've read several articles where people have stated "start with a good Sportsman block" I know of several 400 complete engines available for $300, condition...who knows for sure!

Toying with the idea of building a 400sb, researched info on the 509, 511, & 817 blocks. Seems as tho the consensus is to get a 2bolt main block from various web searches...Looking for opinions from those who have built 400's, which is the perferred block?

Without a doubt, that is one beautiful car Darren! I have a question, where is the 4 spoke steering wheel from?

I'd have to say the entire job has maybe 8 hrs, this was my 1st attempt and I learned a lot. If there's another one, it would be 4-5 probably. It's all of hand sanding, as you might imagine..........

The filler I used is PC7, this stuff is great for plastic repairs. It was part of the Eastwood kit. The SEM paint although, wasn't so great.....My friend who refinishes antique bathtubs, sinks, and urinals swears by this acrylic coating. He says it will never chip or scratch, a couple coats of clear for extra protection. I noticed that the pictures look as if the finished surface is rough, that is not the case, smooth as glass!

Well, probably knows by now that I can't stop coming up with projects to do. From a complete brake & suspension overhaul to a automatic to 4-speed conversion to a 1955 refrigerator. Here's my latest completed project. Restoring the stock plastic steeling wheels in our beloved Monte Carlos....... Turned out really well, had to employ my painting buddy as we used an industrial acrylic and several coats of clear......