stangeba

Sorry, I can't help with a fix but this has got to be one of the strangest problems I have ever heard of. PLEASE let us know what the fix is when you find out. Bruce

Big difference! I believe Chevrolet didn't use any air cleaner decal for engine size in 1972. Big cost savings? Bruce

If anyone suspects faulty plug wires, when it's dark at night, spray the wires with water from a spray bottle then start it up and have someone brake torque it a bit. I recall my dad's Oldsmobile arching at every plug and all around the cap. Nice light show! Bruce

Bob, I recommend purchasing the inner part (core) only. They come as cut to fit and with a, one time use, plastic end that you crimp on. As always, measure twice and cut once because the shaft isn't long enough for a do over, neither is the plastic end. I believe I also had an issue where I needed an external ground wire on the unit itself, because of our plastic inner fenders. Bruce

I bought factory cruise control about 25 years ago. It requires two speedometer cables, each shorter than the one you have and one (trans to control unit) has a different "screw on" type connection on each end vs the "quick disconnect" type at the speedometer head. I'm thinking there are ?? 4 ?? wires to the button, not sure. In the factory shop manual, there is a very nice section about the unit. If you take the unit apart, index it first (like you do an alternator). Good luck. Bruce

Two things came to mind, the insides (baffles) of the mufflers are rotted out and rattling around or the exhaust system is touching the frame or under body at some point. Can you duplicate doing a brake torque? Possible broken motor mount allowing the engine to move under load. Good luck! Bruce

Nice! How many spots in the steel fuel / vapor lines were rusted out? Mine are all OEM, guess I should crawl under mine and check. I remember doing some of the same things about 22 years ago. I left the upper arms in after removing the axle. I think they were too hard to get at or I just got too tired. Keep up the good work! Bruce

I live in Michigan, always have. When a heater needs to be fixed, I fix it. If I never used the heater, I may not have bothered and just blocked it off. It's all about time and money. Bruce

With or With out A/C? I just did (2010) my 71 NON A/C car and took pictures. My only problem was the snow ball effect where one thing leads to another. Carpet was old, fire wall insulation was damaged, brake and E-Brake peddles were rusty, clock didn't work added three point safety belts, Replaced all hoses and coolant, check all the bulbs in the dash (perhaps change them all to the brighter GE 168 bulbs) Vent handles (one already broke) and so on. Here is a link to the pictures. Bruce Heater Core replacement NO A/C

Sorry, you have a leaking heater core. Bruce

I asked some "older" retired DuPont Paint people and got this reply: "The hoods and fenders were primed in a black semi-gloss dip primer back in those days. My recollection is that nothing more was done to the non-exterior surfaces. Of course the hood and fenders were topcoated on the exposed surface and edges only. If the underside of the hood is something other than black, it most likely has been removed sometime and painted." Hope this helps. Bruce

I didn't find what I was looking for. Anyone remember a great write up a member did with pictures and descriptions on how to rebuild a ft suspension? I thought it was in the Tech Article section. sorry

With the engine off, remove the air cleaner, look down the primary's at the accelerator pump outlets, (Prop open the choke is closed) slowly open the throttle and carefully view the stream of gasoline. They should be equal and strong. I would bet a piece of debris (dirt) got into one or both and partially plugged them. Remove and clean them out, try again. Good luck. Bruce

Try this one, but I remember someone writing up a step by step "HOW TO" Spring / Ft End work link

Several good write up here someplace, I'll search for them. Caution when working with the coil springs! They are under extream tension and can almost explode out of the pocket if removed incorrectly!

Since my car is black I can't say for sure but I do believe the entire body, fenders and hood were all "dipped" in a dip (not spray) primer that was a lower gloss black then bakes at 390F. I assume a spray primer was then applied, baked at 325F then the lacquer topcoat was sprayed in the door jams, under hood edges, inside trunk lid and baked at 325F. The body may have been sprayed separately from the fenders and hood, I'll do some checking. Bruce

I would rather use a "used" GM HEI than purchase a "REBUILT" one. Re-builders ruin most of what they touch. Always keep your core if you do go rebuilt so you have something to put back in when the rebuilt one doesn't work correctly. Bruce

Couldn't you get power brakes on a 4 speed car? Bruce

This may help: Pre-76 7028219 DG 1938 70 - Prefix code. "70" will appear on all late '60's Rochester Carburetors. 2 - Decade produced. 2 - 1960's 3 - 1060's with A.I.R. 4 - 1970-1975 8 - Year produced. 8 = 1968 2 - Model 0 - Monojet (1 bbl) Federal standards 1 - Two jet (2 bbl) Federal standards 2 - Quadrajet (4 bbl) Federal standards 3 - Monojet (1 bbl) California standards 4 - Two jet (2 bbl) California standards 5 - Quadrajet (4 bbl) California standards 6 - VariJet (2 bbl) Fed 1 - Division. 0, 1, and 2 all indicate Chevrolet. 4 - Buick 5 - Olds 6,7 - Pontiac 9 - Transmission Even numbers - Automatic Transmission Odd numbers - Manual Transmission DG - Customer code. 1938 - Date Code 193 - 193 rd Day of the year 8 - Year MY CARB 7041202 DG 1938 70 - Prefix code. "70" will appear on all late '60's Rochester Carburetors. 2 - Decade produced. 2 - 1960's 3 - 1060's with A.I.R. 4 - 1970-1975 1 - Year produced. 1 = 1971 2 - Model 0 - Monojet (1 bbl) Federal standards 1 - Two jet (2 bbl) Federal standards 2 - Quadrajet (4 bbl) Federal standards 3 - Monojet (1 bbl) California standards 4 - Two jet (2 bbl) California standards 5 - Quadrajet (4 bbl) California standards 6 - VariJet (2 bbl) Fed 1 - Division. 0, 1, and 2 all indicate Chevrolet. 4 - Buick 5 - Olds 6,7 - Pontiac 9 - Transmission “2 = Automatic” Even numbers - Automatic Transmission Odd numbers - Manual Transmission DG - Customer code. 0681 - Date Code 068 - 68 th. Day of the year (March 9th) 1 – Year (1971)

"You may be able to improve things somewhat. However, keep in mind that the Monte stock steering system will never feel tight and responsive like a modern car. I replaced virtually everything in mine and a slalom car it is not." I believe this statement to be correct and I agree. I had the gearbox adjusted and it helped a bit. The steering feels better the longer I drive it (I get used to it) however after a day in my rack and pinion type cars, it again feels very loose for several miles. Bruce

I remember towing a 1963 Triumph TR-3B complete car less roof on a trailer with this hitch on my 71 Monte back in 1974. Don't remember if the trailer had one or two axles but it made it 25 miles each way no problems but I was very nervous. Bruce 63 Triumph TR-3B

I second what Mike just wrote, OE HEI is the best. Bruce

I asked my brother in-law a retired Chevy power train engineer, he said: There are 2 flywheels - 153 tooth (12 3/4" dia.) and 168 teeth (14" dia.). Each fly wheel has it's own unique starter assembly. The motor portion of the starter is the same but the nose cone is different to accommodate the different fly wheel diameters. Also, there are so called high torque and regular motor portions of these same starters. So you can see that there could be potentially four combinations for the Chevy V8 of the Monte Carlo era. (as a side not to quality of aftermarket parts) He sells a kit to add a 200 4R or THM-350 trans to an older inline six Chevy engine. In the kit is a new flex plate that he purchases and verifies on a test engine, it's quality for out of round and run out. The out of spec rate is over 50%, for the past several years, so he returns lot's of flex plates as defective. Bruce

I have seen where the body to frame ground wire broke and during cranking, all the amps went through the throttle cable, overheating it and causing it to melt. Your description of a melted cable brought that past event to mind and I wanted to at least post of it's possibility. Just make sure you have a good ground to both the engine and body from the battery. Bruce

Make sure you have a good electrical ground and it's not using your cable as a better ground. Bruce