badddoin

I think it seemed like the best fit. Also, the directions seemed a little vague. I might take a look at it tomorrow, now that the motor's out, and maybe I will go back with the stud.

I put one in mine. You're definitely right about it being a pita. I didn't use the stud; I bolted the clip with a bell housing bolt. I wasn't able to get the bolt and nut to work, so I used some tie wire. It worked. I pulled my motor today, and when I pulled the distributor out, there was plenty of room there. I'll be able to use the bolt and nut when I reinstall. If I was doing that dipstick tube again, Im sure I'd just pull the distributor to get it out of the way. Just a thought.

I adjusted the shift linkage, straightened the steering wheel, and replaced a hose clamp on the power steering pump return line. Also scraped a little grunge from the undercarriage.

I finally got the bugs worked out of my tranny swap. It's been a little like driving a tractor since I put the 4.10 gear in it last year. My rear tires were only 24.5 inches. I got some new wheels and tires on it. They're Cragar S/S chrome wheels, 15x8 w/ 4.25 backspacing. Tires are MT ET Street 275/60/15 on the rear, and MT Sportsman 255/60/15 on the front. It helped quite a bit with the final drive ratio. I like the stance, but I may cut a little out of the front springs. Have to see what it looks like after the motor swap. I also cut a new mirror for my rear view mirror. I could berely see outta the other one. I did chip a little of the mirroring off the back, about the size of a pencil eraser, but I didn't feel like maing another one right now.

Well, I've solved the bracket issue. I'm sure you all were having trouble sleeping (I was). Now I'm sure the bracket Cory used would've worked just fine. Of course it would. It worked on his car. And it wasn't the matter of the thirty bucks (or whatever}. It really never is the thirty, or fifty, or a hundred, or whatever bucks. It's that it's ANOTHER thirty, or fifty, or a hundred bucks (or whatever}. I've spent around eight grand on this car in the last month, and my spending will (and money) is waining. So, naturally, I did the only logical thing there was left to do. I went to Lowes and spent six-hundred bucks on a welder and helmet, so I could make my own bracket. That does make perfect sense, doesn't it? I bolted my old bracket to the old transmission, and a piece of modified angle to the pan bolts. Then I tacked them together. Then I took 'em off and weded them, cut everything off that wasn't part of the plan, groung it a little, wire brushed it, and molested it with a rattle-can. I like it! Her it is in action, doing its bracketly duties. And I saved thirty bucks!

That's a real nice looking install, Doug. Mine rode around like this forever. Till finally mounted them on the A pillar.

Excellent, Jacob. It's a little tense when they first start. Sounds great; Thanks for posting that. I didn't reaalize you had the body off the frame. Nice looking work there, too.

It was a rainy day here all day, and this is my shop. I'm not exacly complaining; I've worked in a lot worse conditions. As long as it's not raining too hard, it's no problem at all. But today it pretty much poured all day, so I wasn't able to get my tranny back in. Maybe tomorrow. Instead, I unpacked the junk the Fedex guy's been bringing for the last week. I'm still waiting on the short block, head bolts, and a few other odds and ends. The motor is about 3 weeks out. I also scored an engine hoist off CL for a hundred bucks. It's a little rough around the edges, but I'll probably only use it once or twice. My rockers showed up late today, but this guy was in the first box i opened. I hope it wasn't Summit's idea of a joke. Sorry such a bad pic, but I wasn't gonna hang around and take another. I had some scorpionacide to take care of. The correct scorpions for the application. A couple more pics, just because.

I talked to the tech. guy at Summit, and he said I needed this bracket . After looking at it, and the one Cory used, now I'm thinking I've got the wrong thing coming. I'll proobably go ahead and order that one. Either way, I've run out of excuses not to put the tranny in. That's exacly what my bracket looks like, Monte70. This is a pic of the last tranny that was in it. You can almost make out, through the gunk, the bosses in the case where the bracket bolted. I guess it needed replacing. I don't have any history on my car, so there's no telling how many trannies it's been through, or what they came out of. Or who put the rubber baby buggy bumpers on it, for that matter. Thanks again everyon for the help; FGMCC members are off the chart!

As far as I know, the trans is a TH350. The one that was in the car when I bought it bolted the same way as this one. However, this one, which I bought off CL about a year ago, didn't have the holes drilled and tapped. I had to do that myself. I figured it probably just came out of a column shift car, and wasn't machined. My brackket looks like this. It looks to me like I might be able to turn around how the cable goes through the bracket and bolt it through the pan bolts. I'm gonna try that. Thanks so much for the responses. If anyone knows (or can look) if their bracket looks like that I'd be grateful. If not, maybe it looks like one of these ?

I just got a new transmission to replace my leaking piece of stuff. The problem is, there's no place to bolt my shift cable bracket on the new tranny. There was two threaded holes on the old one right behind the shifter shaft. But there's no such animals on the new one. So my question is, is there a fix for this, short of sending it back? It's truck freight, and I'd probably have to take it to Valdosta to the closest truck terminal (60 miles). I'm hoping there is another bracket I can get that will work.

Thanks for the responses. I've filled out the vehicle info sheet on Coan's website. I'll call them the middle of the week, and see what they have to say. I was afraid I'd have to upgrade the converter. I'll go ahead an order an Eddy performer RPM airgap intake. What the hay; it's only money. At least I can reuse my oilpan.

Way to go, Jacob! Nothing like firing one up.

So, I've taken three months off work for medical reasons (I'm sick of working). I'm putting together a new motor for my 72, and I'd really appreciate some input before I order this stuff. It's pretty spendy for my budget, and I'd rather get it right the first time. I'm gonna use this short block. My major concern is the cam, and how well it will work mith this converter, which I already have and hope to reuse. It has 4.10 gears, and will have 28 inch rear tires. The rest of the pertinents: Holley 650 double pump mechanical secondaries Eddy perfomer intake Scorpion full roller rockers Patriot alluminum heads w/ 64cc chambers I'd appreciate any thoughts you might have.

And nice job on this thread. I really enjoyed reading it, and the pictures - awesome!

I remember a huge sense of accomplishment when that first motor actually started and ran. Something you don't want to miss, Jacob.

Yeah. Had the same issue. I put an Eaton posi carrier in w/ Richmond Gears. I bought a Richmond installation kit that came with synthetic oil (plus additive) so that's what I used. After the fact, I find a piece of paper that came with the carrier that said not to use synthetic oil. I've only driven it maybe 200 miles since so no tellin' if there's any issues. I'm gonna change it back to regular oil anyways. I want to point my eyeballs in the direction of that open housing just to make sure everything is OK. That's a job I wouldn't mind not doing again.

The more I thought about this the less sense it made. Even with a new carrier, it seems that the centerline would have to be in the same place.

I'm thinking if you changed the carrier the centerline may not be the same on the new carrier. I put .035 under my pinion bearing on my 12 bolt with new carrier (Eaton Posi) and new Richmind gears. I'm definatly no expert on gear set up, though. Countiing mine I've done one.

That's excellent news, Jacob. I welded light gauge stainless for 13 years when I was younger, and I don't think I'd attempt a roof skin replacement without someone helping that had the skills. I wanted to mention a couple things to you about welding - for what it's worth. First, like somebody already said, stick welders (arc welders) aren't good for welding body panels. You'll end up with too much heat on the panel by the time you get it tacked and the panel will be warped irrepairably. (is that even a word?) Second, there are only three things that make a good welder - practice,practice,practice. Along those lines, I have a suggestion. Before you attempt any welding on your Monte, find you some junk body panels off of something - Ford parts work well for this. Cut 'em apart with a sawzall or a die grinder, weld 'em back together. Get a grinder and a hammer and a dolly. See if you can get them back together and ground and filled and ready for paint. You are basically replicating the repair you're gonna do on the Monte. Do this several times and when you can achive the results you want then you can consider welding on your car. You're certain to mess-up alot of pices of sheet-metal doing this, but don't worry about it - They're only Ford parts, nobody cares. I really enjoy reading your posts and pics. Keep them coming. Best of luck on your project.

That sounds like an excellent plan, Jacob. Your Grandfather sounds like a wise man.

Thanks everyone for your input. I did put a piece of paper in front of the condenser and it held it right there. I guess that's just the temp it's gonna run at.

Or clutch fan, whatever it is. I'm thinking mine is no good. My car runs a little warmer than I think it should (190 on a 75 degree day). When I shut the engine off when it's warm, the fan free spools for a second. It has hardly any resistance when turned by hand either direction. I'm thinking it should be pretty tight at that point, but then I remembered I don't know squat about thes things. I've already changed my water pump and thermostat (160 degree). The themostat is opening when it's suppose to. I even changed out the copper/brass radiator that came with the car for a cheesy alum. plastic tank one that also came with the car. I'll get a good alum. radiator soon. I was thinking maybe the radiator was plugged up. Anybody know anything about these fan clutches and how to tell if there bad? Thanks

Previous owner did mine. Didn't use new foam and the ribs stick through - looks terrible. Worth the xtra to get new foam, I'd say.

Had the same problem w/ mine. Was actually boiling the gas in the bowls. (350 performer 650 Holly man. choke, mild cam.) I put a phenolic spacer 1/2 in. under the carb. seemed to help quite a bit. Phenolic Spacer