badddoin

I wasn't able to get a fitting to work anywhere on my intake, without interfering with the carburetor. I just ran a short piece of rubber line from the base of the carburetor to a "T", one side goes to the booster, the other to the PCV.

Congratulations, welding is a game-changer. Oh, and I've seen a lot worse.

Your nitrous test bench looks very similar to my nitrous mock-up bench. It should definitely get the job done.

I finally took the plunge and bought a lift. If anyone knows why I didn't do this 5 years ago, before two tranny swaps, new exhaust, break lines, rear end rebuild, etc., I'd be interested. Edit: Apparently I've also defied all of the laws of physics.

Thanks. I gotta do something. It sounds like I'm strangling kittens or something.

Ditto on not being an expert. It would seem to me, though, that you could set your bypass reg. at 10PSI and do away with the nitrous deadhead reg. You should have ten pounds everywhere behind your deadhead reg. (carb) and your solenoids (nitrous). You have plenty of volume w/ that pump. Is that pump any quieter than my Holley black? I despise that thing.

That's some real nice looking work there.

I had a heck of a time plumbing my plate system, on my small block. I have up on the steel lines altogether, and got some copper tubing.

I can feel the excitement from here. Getting very close.

Those type of repairs are bigly expensive to have done. Cbolt is spot-on IMO. This is a great opportinity to learn to weld in floor pans, provided you have the time and inclination. I did the three-piece trunk pan in my 72. It came out nice - not perfect by any means, but better than I thought it would. I will warn you, though: it's a lot of work, and ain't none of it easy, either. I'd probably do it again, though, if I had to. If you decide to farm it out, do some research and use someone reputable. There's plenty of hacks in that business, and you'd probably be better off doing nothing than letting somebody go in there and butcher it up. Best of luck. Remember there's plenty of people on this forum to walk you through the indecisive moments.

My 4.10 gears with a 27.75 in. tire turns about 3100 @60 mph.

I've been adding some new junk. New 4150 HP 750 Holley carb, new black Holley fuel pump, new regulator, some groovy new braided fuel line, 2 stage NOS system, MSD digital 6A box. It was a monster chore to make it all fit and work. I still have quite a bit of cleaning up of wires and stuff to do.

Some are rope, others rubber. You're suppose to be able to push one side up and grab the other end w\plyers or something (Good luck with that.). The last one I changed - and the motor was out of the car - I had to remove ALL the main caps, and pull the vrank down a little to get it to break free, then re-torque the caps. I don't know that I'd attempt that under the car, but maybe. If I was commited to trying that, if necessary, I'd first attempt to scrwe a sheet metal screw up into one end of the seal, being VERY MINDFUL of not letting it make contacr with the crank. Then I'd grab the screw with Vice Grips and pull gently, while pushing on the other end with some non-metal thing - maybe something like a pencil. When that didn't work, and it probably won't, I'd take the caps off. Remember to put a little silicone where the seal halves meet on reinstalation. Good luck.

I usually avoid doing things right the first time.

After replacing the master on my Monte, I had to bleed it at the the break lines where they meet the master. Got a little air out, even though I bench bled it. Easy thing to try.

NOW you tell me.

Ow! I wish you luck with the oil swap, but I'd have to say I think you have an engine issue (other than oil type) if all the other plugs looked good.

My checkbook usually resolves this debate. Great arbitrator.

I was having similar issues, along with idle issues. My problem was junk getting past the filter. I thought it was rust from my 40 year oldtank, but when I dropped the tank and removed the sending unit, it wasn't rusty inside at all. The problem was my 40 year old pre filter (sock) was falling apart. It was black, and when I fetched a piece of it out, it would turn into a gazillion fibers in my hand. I cleaned it all outta there with a contraption I made to attach a piece of steel fuel line to my shop vac - pat. pend. I also got one of those groovy scopes from Harbor Freight, so I could see all around in there. If you have an old tank, you might consider taking your bowls off and seeing if anything is getting in there.

I bought mine from Rock Auto. It's definately an el cheapo piece. I ran a wire from the battery ground and hooked the unit up before I reinstalled the tank. Then I turned the tank upside down to make sure the float wasn't getting hung up on anything. I also had to bend the float arm. Not exactly rocket science, but a real PITA.

Me either. If I did, I'd have to look at all the things I did two (or three) times, when I should have just waited till I could either afford what I wanted, or, at the very least, have an plan that made sense.

Cory, I just built a 383 for my car. I love it. I haven't had it on a dyno yet, so I have no idea of the power. I also went with a forged assembly, figuring that I could spray it in the future if I had to. I got the American Eagle crank and "h" beam rods, with Mahle flat top pistons. With my current 64 cc. Patriot aluminum heads and a .028 head gasket it's around 11.2:1 comp. I'm happy (extremely happy) to report that it runs good on premium pump gas. I was more than a little concerned about that. I was eyeball deep in the build when you first posted this thread, but I didn't feel like I had anything to offer because all of my issues had to do with clearancing the block, and assembly. You said you had somebody that was gonna do that for you. There was a lot of grinding to do on that block to get the propper clearance. I did it with a die grinder. It took forever. I just knew I was gonna grind into the water jacket, but I never did. 500 bucks for somebody to do all the machine work and assembly is a steel, IMO. I started with a 4 bolt block that I got free from a friend. He didn't even remember where he got it. Probably at a swap meet or something. It was covered in rust, like it had been used as a boat anchor or something. When the machine shop bored it to +.030 there was still a couple deep pits in it. He went to +.060 and it looked good. I had already bought the pistons, so I was in a bit of a pickle. He had a .030 over 4bolt block that was unclaimed that he gave me for 75.00 plus my block. I thought that was a good deal, considering the alternatives. My next major expenditure is gonna be a set of premium heads and some new headers. I'd be interested to know how you decided on the 195 AFRs.

Please keep us posted, Paul, I'm likely to follow close in your footsteps. Thanks.

FWIW, I'm not particularly happy with the converter I got from Coan. I didn't call them, but I DID fill in all my pertinent information on their website, and they recommended a pro street converter for my application.It's wound too tight, IMO. It pulls hard against my breaks @1000 RPM. I will be replacing it in the future.

I don't know how mine are oriented. I recall feeling lucky to get them on there at all, with all of my fingers intact. Be careful, they can be a bear.