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dbreese

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Everything posted by dbreese

  1. Tom I leave at 1500 rpm. Course I ain't got no torque monster b/b like you just a 10.25:1 385 with 3.73 gears and a 3000 stall converter. I'm heading to our local t&t on Oct 8th so I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again for the advise. David
  2. Tom, Sorry for calling you Mike. Don't know why I did. Could be a senior moment. David
  3. Mike Would I still leave my intial @ 19 degrees? The light set up would mean my total would come in much faster, right? Thanks for your help. BTW, have you gotten your racepump installed? Wallaby, From what I understand you get excellent throttle response and clean idle from a locked out dizzy and 36-38 degrees seems to be the magic number. David
  4. Sorry, my math was wrong 19 intial and 17 mech. I just want to make sure there are no starter issues and that it likes 36 degrees all the time before I make the lockout permanent. David
  5. Is there a way to temporarily lock out an hei distributor to see if it will work properly with the starter and engine combo? I would like to lock it out at 36 degrees and see how it does. Right now I have 19 degrees initial and 15 degrees mech all in by 3000. TIA David
  6. I need to install one. For those of you that have one what make do you have, how hard was it to install and if it is not to much of a problem would you have a photo/photos. I hate to drill in to my floor to install one but I don't think I have an option. David
  7. Tom, Looks nice! What was the cost for the bumper + chroming? Can you use the stock brackets? David
  8. I currently have a Coan behind my stroked s/b. Been running it for almost 3 yrs no problems. David
  9. Check the universal joints. That could be your problem. David
  10. To me if you can you can get a 3900 + pound car in the 12's or high 11's with a with a b/b s/b combo I don't see that as slow. This would cover pretty much any production car with ease. Just my opinion. BTW Welcome to the boards MrWilson. David
  11. Try this, http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/speedo_gears.htm You should be able to get pretty close. David
  12. dbreese

    rear end

    Mine did. Had 2.73 open diff until the upgrade. David
  13. Mike Try this site http://www.coanengineering.com/ Just email your combo and they can get you set up with the conveter that will work well. They actually called me about two days after I sent the info up. The tech was very helpful and we were able to come up with a converter that works well with my powerband and gear. It also idles at 750 rpm in gear with a 240/238 @ .050 cam. Tech also said that they could tighten or loosen it to get it just right. So far no problems. Helps take alot of the guesswork out. David
  14. To the Lines family May God provide comfort for you during this time of great sadness and loss. Remember that one day you will be reunited with George and what a wonderful and glorious day that will be! You are in my prayers. David
  15. Bought a Carter Street Performance pump (M6900) Tried to install it but ran into trouble. The housing won't clear the cross member. Has anyone run into this problem? If so, whats the fix? Thanks! David
  16. Hey Guys! Thanks for all the input! Since my car will not see alot of strip time I was looking for the best of both worlds and had heard the drag radials were a pretty good trade off between full on traction and good road manners. George, I went to M/T website and didn't see any listing for drag radials. What mag did you see them in? Thanks David
  17. Since I installed my stroker motor I've got some traction issues. The 215-70-15 out back are not up to the task. I want to get some 15x8 rallys out back. Was thinking about using bf goodrich drag radials maybe 235-60-15. They are a little shorter than the 215-70-15's (26.9 to 26.1). Are any of you ya'll running these tires or have run them in the past? Any help would be great! Thanks David
  18. Pyro I went from a 2.73 to a 3.36 and took my car to a shop that had a set of speed calibrated rollers. They went to a light blue 45 tooth which I think was the largest they could get and got the speedo within 2 mph at 55/70 and at 90 it was off by 3 mph. The odometer was off by 1/10 of a mile and they said to get it right on they would have to change the drive gear in the tailshaft so I just left that alone. Hope this helps as a starting point for ya. David
  19. Check out www.gaugeguys.com. They do a convertion of the clock to a tach. I would guess it would operate in the same manner as an aftermarket and run off of the tach side of the coil. David
  20. Too Cool!! I'm sure it is quite functional in keeping that beast glued to the road when your clicking off triple digit MPH's. But you would never do that! Right????? Looks great man!!! David
  21. Hey Rob Saw a 71 bench 402/4sp at a car corral several years back. Was kinda skeptical until I read an article from a muscle car mag that the owner had with the car. Nice car he was asking $15,000. I would have bought it but because of a recent minivan purchase for the wife I was unable to do so. He did come down to 10,000 but the WAF (wife acceptance factor) was not good. It got away. Talked to someone at the M/C Nats and was told that it went to a broker up north and went for I think 19,000. Guess it was the unicorn!! David ------------------
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