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dbreese

(Non-dues paying)
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Everything posted by dbreese

  1. Agree with Sam and Scott. Stay away from the chrome pans. Milodon is good stuff and I have had good luck with Moroso. If your engine mild a stock style pan from any of the two mentioned would suffice. If your engine is gnarly and is gonna see some track time you could step up to something with a windage tray and crank scraper. This is the one I have on my engine http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20191/overview/ David
  2. Gett'er Done Scott!!! Where are you going to mount the MSD Box? I tucked mine up at the front of the inner fender well and it is kinda of hidden by the battery tray. David
  3. Pulled the valve covers and looked the valve train over, pulled the plugs and checked them. Checked the valve lash and all was good. Buttoned her back up and went for a little cruise. David
  4. Thanks Mike, I have a tight lash cam and it calls for .010 hot. Set them at .004 cold. Spot on when hot. Gotta love a shaft rocker setup! David
  5. WICKED!!! That's a bunch a engine right there!!!! BTW what do you set your hot lash at?. David
  6. Atta boy Dave! You haven't missed a lick!!!! Keep up the good work! I can't remember, are you running a glide? Glad you have the car so consistent. Man and losing the round by .0012 of second is like what 11". That was a close race for sure. I say you're a winner though, facing the challenges that you have and dealing with them in such a positive manner. David
  7. Washed her and detailed the engine bay. Heading to a local cruise-in at a hamburger joint that I hung out as a teenager some 30 + years ago. David
  8. Went to my local Auto Zone yesterday and picked up a new light. It was a no frills Actron http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16313 model that was on sale for 29.99. It didn't surprise me that it was made of shore but I thought I would give it a shot. Got home hooked it up and and cranked the car up. Set the timing at 35 degrees at idle. Had the wife come out and sit in the car to monitor the tach and told her to take it to 3500 rpm( she hates that car LOL) to take the MSD 6al out of the equation. Timing remained dead on at 35. So this light will work with MSD boxes. Quality was ok, about what you would expect for something in this price range. It does have a metal inductor clamp which is a plus. One last thing you have to worry about melting. David
  9. Hey Dave, Yep I do have a 6al. Thanks, David
  10. Would love to find a bare bones light made in the USA if possible. The old Craftsmans are great lights. Thanks David
  11. My trusty Sun Pro Actron timing light of 20 years met its demise today. I had just installed a new MSD 85551 distributor. Got the car fired up and went to check the timing. To my surprise I was fairly close @ 39 degrees (locked out). I went to turn the distributor to pull the timing back to 35 degrees but it was hold down bolt/clamp was a little tight. I set the light down and was not aware the wires from the plug wire inductor clamp came in contact with a header tube and melted….bad! Well after I loosened the bolt I went back around through the light on and was no showing 100 degrees BTDC. I checked and saw where the wires had melted and gave me the screwed up reading. It was a great light and was made in the USA. I'm looking for a good light. Don't need all the bells and whistles. Suggestions? Thanks, David
  12. Track scales. 3850 with me (175 lbs) half tank of gas. Weld draglites. David
  13. That is a light Monte right there. Is this a track only ride? Does it have a cage? David
  14. Viking was started by two of the former owners of QA1. They have an awesome facility up in MN. and everything is made in house. The shocks are rebuildable and they can do custom valving. I have a set of DA's on the rear with factor springs. You can dial them down for street. They have 19 settings for rebound and compression. Very nice shock for the money. David
  15. Denny's, Empire and Mark Williams are some good sources for driveshafts. David
  16. Sounds ok for a B/B. I joke, I joke!!!lol That engine sounds wicked and will motivate the Monte for sure!! Great job on the build!! David
  17. The build you posted up is very nice. A member here, AL M, has a 427 sb and that is one bad mouse motor. I can tell ya that a build like that can get pricey. David
  18. Afraid it won't work. Sorry. David
  19. Hey Drew, IIRC 2 series carriers are just that. 2.73 and I want to say the even had like a 2.56 gear or close to it. 3 series is 3.08 up to 3.73 but you can purchase a thick ring gear set in 4.11, 4.56, and I think 4.88 that will fit a 3 series. David
  20. ^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^ I have had two intakes done(RPM and my current Vic Jr) and it does look nice. Easy to clean and impervious to oil, gas and heat. David
  21. Nice work!!!! Very cool David
  22. dbreese

    396?

    Hi James, If it were me I would pass on this. The seller's description and shape of the components is very vague. It says nothing about the block being checked for cracks and the same goes for the shape of the crank and rods. Based on the description I don't think any parts have been machined. You would still need to buy cylinder heads, intake, main, crank and cam bearings. Pistons in rods thrown in a box is also a red flag. You could rebuild your current mill on a budget or pick up a crate long block from Pace Performance http://paceperformance.com/c-142529-engi...e-engines.html. Just some suggestions. David
  23. WTG Mike. That B/B is making some good steam especially with that mild of a gear. Have fun and be safe. Don't know what kind of safety gear you have but a sfi jacket, collar and even gloves would be a good idea. I bought a jacket, pants, shoes and collar and have a full face Bell helmet. I also mounted a halon fire extinguisher with a bracket mounted to the seat bolts on the drivers side. Fire scares me! My car ain't that fast and I remember some guys kinda laughing at me one night at tnt when they saw me suited up. I chuckled back and said you can burn to death just as fast in an 11 second car as you can in an 8 second car. David
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