Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Pulled off the head this morning, in an effort to replace what (I thought) was simply a bad head gasket... Found the #5 piston looking quite melty, with some of it built up around the top of the cylinder. So, is it likely that I will be able to get by with just honing them out and replacing the pistons, or am I going to have to bore it out? And... anyone who can point me in the right direction for good deals on the parts would be greatly appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 I would bore it out, you have to replace the pistons anyway but first....how was the coolant getting into the cylinders? head gasket cracked head cracked cylinder wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Tear it down and take it to a trusted machine shop. They can mic the cylinders and also magnaflux the block and cylinder heads to check for cracks. If the block is good have them go .030 or even .040 over if they need to. Plenty of kits available out there. You may want to go with a stroker kit and turn the mill into a 383. Lots of extra torque which is needed to get our land yachts moving!lol Check jegs or summit. Kits by eagle and scat with some forged pistons would be nice. If you decide to co the stroker route you can get a set of dart 200 cc iron eagles with 2.02 intake valves and 1.60 exhaust. Combine this with a nice hydraulic roller cam and an edelbrock rpm intake you would have a potent bullet. The block would need to be machined for the extra stroke but that is not a big deal. If it is a two bolt main I would stud the main caps just for a little extra strength on the bottom end. Just some suggestions. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Sam, I'm guessing it was likely loose bolts on the heads... they got easier to loosen the farther back I got, but I'm going to get the block checked just to make sure... I can't -see- anything wrong with it still in the car, (Other than the melted piston...) but that doesn't mean squat. Reese, thanks for the input, but I'd like to use this engine to show what a 350 can do. Just about everyone at my work is telling me to swap it, so, my stubborn streak kicked in pretty hard XD What's the difference between forged and hypereutechtic pistons, other than one being really hard to spell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston All you wanted to know but were afraid to ask about hyperutectic pistons. LOL! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Oh right, I'm on the internet... XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 spend the money on forged! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 That was the plan... Unfortunately, due to budgetary constraints, she's gonna be out of commission for... probably the whole year =( Got a recommended brand for them, though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Is that the engine that lost coolant and got hot enough to quit? If that is the case I would have the block crack checked AND pressure tested. Those do not look like original pistons, factory usually have four valve reliefs. Forged pistons are the strongest and make noise when cold, Hypers are cast with high silicone content they are stronger than plain cast pistons but the strength comes with a brittleness so power adders are a no, no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yeah, same one Mike. Non-original pistons would explain why half the intake manifold bolts were loose, seems somewhere along the line someone hopped it up and didn't do it right. Wish I'd have known, I was told it was stock when I bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Yep intake bolts always come loose, aluminum intakes aggravate the loosening I check mine all the time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 I did not know that... Will remember to check them frequently, now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 Quick question... Since I have to replace the pistons, should I also replace the connecting rods? This is the first time I've rebuilt anything but a school engine and I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 Depends on what the condition of the rods. Sometimes the cost of removing the rods and installing them on pistons clean, check and resize a stock rod. A upgrade rod is cost effective. Just remember these types of changes will require rebalance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vacavillebob Posted June 27, 2014 Share Posted June 27, 2014 I just received my new rebuilt 350 from O'Reilly auto parts. I got a complete long block with all new parts and a 3 year warranty for $1,300. I could not rebuild it myself for that much. My motor has over 500,000 miles on it so it was do to be replaced. Now to find time to install it hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72MC Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 Quick question... Since I have to replace the pistons, should I also replace the connecting rods? This is the first time I've rebuilt anything but a school engine and I want to make sure I do it right the first time. Mitchell, if you are set on Hyper pistons, I may have a deal for you. I have a set of Sealed Power Hyper pistons(.030 over) already installed on OEM rods. They were in an engine I built but only have 2-3 hours run time before I discovered the machine shop did not flux and check the block for cracks. Of course I discovered it and they had already gone out of business. I also have a Comp Cam Extreme Energy flat tappet cam that is already broken in. I can include the matching lifters and they are marked for the proper lobe that they were broken in on. For the pistons, rings, rods, cam, and lifters, I would take 150.00 plus shipping and they're yours. That engine was also built with a "Quiet" gear drive for the timing chain. Add 75.00 and that could be included. Let me know. In any case, good luck with your repairs. - Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malyc Posted July 13, 2014 Author Share Posted July 13, 2014 I apparently need to check back more often... about the time you posted that was when i was putting one back together. I'd be interested if i hadnt gotten it in the car friday night. Thanks for the offer though, its a good price, and hopefully someone sees the post and picks them up from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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