72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 After completing a couple modifications on the ole girl, I had attempted to lock/unlock doors and trunk using the key fob. I am not having any luck at this point. My question is: Is there a procedure to reset remote after disconnecting battery? I vaguely think I remember something needed done to get remote key fob to actuate doors & trunk again. I could be wrong but before I start tearing things apart, this is my 1st trouble shooting move. Thanx for the input guys. Fix on thing and create another problem! Good thing I don't do this for a living cause I would simply starve to death..... Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Doug I had the same issue with my keyless entry after the battery went dead in the car. After changing the battery and leaving it alone for a couple of days (on my battery tender for those days) the key fob started working again. I did contact Tom in regards to the issue and he told me that it would work after a dead battery, good thing I had the door key on that key ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Very fortunate Robert, indeed. Okay, while battery was not dead but just disconnected at the time, I will give it a try again tomorrow. Wasn't sure if there was a special trick to reset it. Could easily be something else. Thanx, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I have disconnected the battery in my blue '70 many times the past three months for various dash-related projects and have never had an issue with my Keyless Klassics remote fobs failing to operate the door or trunk locks. My keyless system is interfaced to factory power door locks, but I doubt that makes any difference. I really appreciate not having to use a key in the doors or trunk anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 First chance I have had to troubleshoot this problem. Ultimately discovered the (always) hot lead from keyless system had been disconnected from the fuse block. Plugged lead back into fuse block powered by a 20 amp fuse and fuse immediately blew. With lead plugged into fuse block, replaced 20 amp fuse into fuse block and immediately blew again. I think there is a procedure for when disconnected and trying to reconnect the system. I sent Tom a message hoping he can refresh my memory. Already blew 2 fuses and I know a third isn't going to give me different result. I think the original instructions with this system even explained how to reconnect but for the life of me I cant find them. I know I have them somewhere and should have scanned them into a photo I could simply look at. Anyway, if aware of this procedure, would appreciate you jogging my memory just in case I don't hear from Tom anytime soon. Thanx, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCfan Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Doug, I don't recall any system reset instructions but I can't locate the installation papers that came with my kit, either. It sure sounds like you are completing a short circuit that is going directly to ground (which is why the fuses are blowing immediately). Tom's systems generally feature a constant common ground and then momentarily switch power to the respective electro-mechanical actuator through the receiver/controller as directed by the key fob or door pin switch (in the case of power seat back releases). What color is the power lead that is loose from your fuse panel? Does it come directly from the keyless receiver? The power lead on my kit is red and the ground is black. I suppose it is possible that your receiver/controller has been fried, resulting in a grounded/shorted circuit or maybe some of your door wiring or connectors are contacting/shorting against the door structure, although that shouldn't blow a fuse until you actuate the circuit with the fob. Warning - the following comment may not apply in your situation: One of my keyless kits from Tom (actually, I think it was a power seat back release kit) would blow every fuse below 30 A. Since the wire in the circuit was not sized to withstand 30 A, I asked Tom about it. He traced it to a down level controller that his supplier had substituted a few of to complete a larger volume order. Tom cheerfully and quickly replaced the controllers for me and everything has worked well since. Again, that may not be your situation at all, but it wouldn't hurt to ask him to be sure. You best bet is to call Tom directly on 402-502-6926. Refresh his memory on which kit(s) you have and I'll bet he can trouble shoot it pretty quickly for you. Sorry I couldn't be of much help. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leghome Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I contacted Tom by e-mail last week and he responded a week later. He is very busy so the phone call is the quickest way. I blew two 25 amp fuses on my system. My son in-law and I had the dash loose 10 days ago and when we tightened everything back up we pinched both wires going to the glove box release button. We replaced the two blown fuses and the trunk latch still did not work. He had me take a 9 volt battery and connect the leads form the latch to the battery and still no clicking. So I disassembled the latch and saw that the coil was all bubbly and had a brownish cast to it. I was hoping I could just buy the coil but no such luck so I ordered a new latch assembly and it should be here before the end of this week. Another Benjamin spent that I had not planned on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Appreciate the input guys. In both instances you possibilities do not fit my circumstance other than a possible ground issue. Tom did get back to me today and we discussed possibilities. The ground was the 1st possibility and will study that tomorrow when I get back over to the car. Other than that, it will be a matter of trial & error. The doors lock and trunk lid opens when hot lead is connected and locks doors / opens trunk lid just as fuse in fuse block blows. Dennis, the hot lead is red and ground wire is black. With the work done earlier, the disconnected power lead from Keyless entry to fuse block was the only wire I noticed unplugged. Tom indicated there is no procedure to reconnect once power supply has been disrupted. Simply plugging power supply back in would not cause a short of itself. I'm just going to have to check ground(s) and if not the problem, Tom asked that I call him and will see what other possibilities might exist. Just like Rosanne Rosanna Dana says, "its always something"! Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72-CLASSIC_RIDE Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Ahhhh, sweet success! Honestly, I don't really know why/how the problem resolved itself. I went over to car this morning and picked up some 20 amp. fuses along the way, followed some wiring to verify connections. (I did find my connection from keyless wiring side to fuse block hot lead that originally disconnected from fuse block were both male ends. I wont elaborate how it is possible to mate both male connections together other than say my BAD)! I can hear the gears grinding from you guys but remember, this is a family site so no jokes! What was noted and a possible suspect was this connection may have been asking for more power than would have been otherwise required if male & female connectors were used and why it wasn't a problem in the beginning when originally installed is still a mystery to me. I replaced one connector with a female end, reconnected at both male/female connectors at fuse block for a positive connection, unplugged the keyless entry at relay harness, put fuse in fuse block and fully expected fuse to blow when I reconnected keyless wiring harness to hot lead. Everything worked as it had when keyless was initially installed! The other only difference was the sequence used when reconnecting the system together. As I always have said, "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth" and consider it repaired until discovered otherwise. However, found another small problem once satisfied with electrical issue (and here we go again)! My throttle/cruise control bracket I noticed had pivoted forward toward the front of car. Recently replaced the carburetor gasket with an insulator style to reduce heat issues from Intake to carb. When tightening, I could not snug carb nuts down as tightly as with gasket that now allowed this bracket to pivot as a Carb nut is used to secure it. I ended up fabricating a brace that I attached at rear of intake to bracket as reinforcement. Another problem resolved. So, installation of the Cruise Control and Carb Insulator gasket found other issues needing resolved that I had not originally considered or discovered at the time, so overall was a good thing. Otherwise, had I been on the highway, I am pretty confident eventually either would have cropped up! My explanation of the Keyless electrical problem (well, you had to be there) to really understand where I believe the problem initiated from. But is still a theory as I cant prove it, other than saying replacing that connector from male appeared to made the difference until proved otherwise. And with that, to all a good a Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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