Rock Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 As most know I am replacing the stock springs with Viking coil overs. Well I have the driver side off and the holes needed drilled and after removing the bolt for the lower control arm the bushing doesn't look to good. Since I am This far already would it be worth it to replace the control arms? I won't be doing and drag racing or anything, just street driving. Would I notice any changes or would it be a waste of money? Should I just replace the bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 http://m.ebay.com/itm/UMI-Performance-64-72-GM-A-Body-Boxed-Lower-Control-Arms-Chevelle-GTO-Lemans-RED-/201275184800?nav=SEARCH These are the ones I am looking at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Do you now have a rear anti-sway bar? Do you want to add one? Do the new replacement bars handle a rear anti-sway bar? Stock, aftermarket or both? I don't care for most things aftermarket but they look simple enough. I added a stock RAS bar to my 71 in 1972 and didn't "BOX" them till about 1990 when I was told I must box them or they would be ruined. (didn't harm them at all but I did box them) Perhaps it was because I only bolted the bar to the inside not through to the other side, where it then would have been crushed. IMO I would paint them black. Good luck, Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted June 11, 2016 Author Share Posted June 11, 2016 Do you now have a rear anti-sway bar? Do you want to add one? Do the new replacement bars handle a rear anti-sway bar? Stock, aftermarket or both? I don't care for most things aftermarket but they look simple enough. I added a stock RAS bar to my 71 in 1972 and didn't "BOX" them till about 1990 when I was told I must box them or they would be ruined. (didn't harm them at all but I did box them) Perhaps it was because I only bolted the bar to the inside not through to the other side, where it then would have been crushed. IMO I would paint them black. Good luck, Bruce Yes it does have a sway bar and the boxed arms look like it accepts a sway bar. I figure if I am doing this I might as well do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Glen I have UMI on the rear of my 70 don't ask how it handles as it hasn't seen the road since it was put on last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murphy Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Glen, those are a nice upgrade, when I got mine they were black. With the coil-over upgrade your starting, just do it right and be done with it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Glen, those are a nice upgrade, when I got mine they were black. With the coil-over upgrade your starting, just do it right and be done with it! the upper stock look good so I don't think I will change those out but I am definetly changing the lowers. Did you do the Viking shocks? If you did how did you get the 2 top bolts you drilled holes for in? There sure isn't much room to get the bolts in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 FYI , The Viking shocks with aftermarket control arms you may have to grind a bit of the bolt head that the bottom of the shock mounts to. . It wasn't bad but I found out the hard way. Here are a couple of pictures 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 FYI , The Viking shocks with aftermarket control arms you may have to grind a bit of the bolt head that the bottom of the shock mounts to. . It wasn't bad but I found out the hard way. Here are a couple of pictures those holes that were drilled for the upper mounts, which size bolt was used and how the heck did you fish them into the holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Well the car put up a good fight and did not want to give up the 46 year old control arm but I won out in the end. Ignore the feet in the pic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Nice Feet .. J/k.. I mounted the bracket up there with the two existing holes. Lined up where the other two holes go and I used an air drill I bought at Harbor freight .. That drill worked great. I have a small 4 horse 25 gallon compressor.. To get the bolts in is a PITA.. I used one of those long reach claws. I Placed the head of the bolt and a washer in the claw and fed it in. It took a bit.. Attached picture of both tools. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Sorry, keep forgetting to attache the picture 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Sorry, keep forgetting to attache the picture Thanks, I will have to get one of those claws. No way to get my fingers that far back. Do you remember of you use the 1/2" or 5/16 bolts for the drilled holes? The holes I drilled were 5/16" so I assume those are the bolts I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snomobeelr Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 I don't remember what size bolts they were. Id have to climb under to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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