1972mc Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I was looking at a website that sold among other things a driveshaft loop. They indicated that NHRA tracks require a loop for sub 13's. Is this true and do most of you guys just below that et have one? I know it's cheap insurance, but I don't want to get to the track my 1st time, run one 12.99 and have to go home. Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I think that you only have to have the safety loop if you run slicks, and maybe drag radials. Not totally sure though. The safety loop is usually one of the main things they look for though. I've squeaked by with some other things missing, but the drive shaft safety loop is too easy not to look for. I'd say just put one on and have fun racing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stick Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 " I know it's cheap insurance, " I have one. I run low 13’s on Drag Radials. Like you said its cheep insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evil Austin Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I have heard from other racers anything north of 450+ fhp you should have a loop. . . Cheap insurance is always good insurance ! -EA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
502ci Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Hate to say it but I do not even have one and I'm in the 11's...I know I should, my only excuse and it's not the greatest is I have all 1350 series joints and a large driveshaft. It wouldn't hurt to have it when running at any speed and would save alot of carnage if something breaks. Too be honest when you are test and tuning, trophy night, or grudge matches at the track near me, they won't even look...that includes a back woods track here and even the very large Summit Motorsports Park. I think you will get by the techs without one (I'm being honest and not suggesting you race without safety measures). Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 You also don't have to settle for a one size fits all generic loop either. BMR MFG makes a 68-72 GM "A" body specific safety loop. I just got mine yesterday. I can tell it will be a breeze to bolt, or weld in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I'll check the rulebook, I think it's needed when you hit 11.99, manditory w/slicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteAZBB70 Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 I used to know a guy that had a late '40's chopped Merc cruiser with a built big block Chevy in it. Not sure of all the circumstances, but he romped on it and the driveshaft came up through the floor doing a ton of damage and broke his daughter's feet in the process! Definitely not worth going without one in my opinion. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Evil Austin Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 680 HP: Where did you buy that loop kit from, or was it direct from the manufacturer ? -EA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted February 7, 2008 Share Posted February 7, 2008 Greg, I need a loop for mine but don't want to drill holes through the floor. The BMR looks like a nice piece but how would one bolt it to the floor support brace behind the tranny? TIA David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted March 2, 2008 Share Posted March 2, 2008 seems to me, the difference between the cost of the driveshaft loop, and the damage done by pole-vaulting your car on the driveshaft at high speed... seems to me that it would be a no brainer to put one in.. no matter what speed u run. I'm going to be installing one in my car this summer. and I only run mid 14's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 The BMR unit coming with two locating screws. Just wire wheel and grind off the area for the loop on the floor support that's about foot behind your front universal, drill two small holes in the support for the locating screws, screw the loop in and then tig/mig weld it in. After that paint it up and you are done. Nothing through the floor, and nothing burnt. Mine loos awesome and fits like a glove with a big, fat custom driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I know Allan I need digital pics, but my camera is broke and santa didn't bring me one for Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I know Allan I need digital pics, but my camera is broke and santa didn't bring me one for Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 according to the NHRA rulebook...the loop has to within 6" of the front U-joint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 72yellowmc Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Actually I believe if you run 13.99 and faster with slicks or other types of drag race tires you must have a drive shaft loop, it's cheap insurance, I've seen the damage a drive shaft can do to the floor board of a car without one. it was nasty...... the driver was real lucky, and he was running high 13's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
680HPStroker Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 I said a foot, but maybe it isn't that far back, but it's the only mounting point for the BMR Loop. From the base of the u-joint it probably is six inches. I will measure tonight to be sure seeing my car is in the air still. Hopefully it will be ready to come home tomarrow. With the new 400 tranny I'm having the pinion angle set at negative three this time. Last time with the 700 tranny it was at -2. I'm doing it this way as I could blow off even drag radials at will. Hopefully the added bite, with some fresh MT drag radials vise BFG, and the BMR support braces I can finally get this car to hook up on the street as well as the track. Slicks will be my last resort. Lessons learned from the 400 install is with 3.5" exhaust my crossmember had to be shaped and welded to clear both the exhaust and provide the correct angle for my tranny mount. If I never tell anyone no one would ever know now that it's all painted up. I'm getting closer to being ready for anything, but the cage is going to be the show stopper for NHRA events. That will be the last thing and it might not happen until late this year, or early next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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