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Ratchet shifters


kc8oye

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it would look better if I had a MIG welder smile flux core is MESSY!

 

i onyl burned one small hole in the floorpan which i welded shut wink

 

it's solid too.. i can pull and tug and yank on it.. and the shfiter itself flexes before the mounting does smile it shoudl be fun fitting the carpet around it tho

 

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i dont know why u say flux core is messy for. we use flux core here around the house welding up body panels, frame repair, and welding jobs we do on the side. when welding the welder should sound like beacon sizzling in a pan. best thing to do is practics on extar sheet metal until u find the right settings.

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flux core is messy like a stick welder.. the flux splatters everywhere making a mess. that's why it is messy.

 

remind me not to ride in your cars if you are using flux core to fix frames :>

 

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Every expierenced welder I've talked to says not to use wire welding of any kind where structual strength is critical (frames etc) it just doesn't penetrate deep enough. This is where Stick welding is beneficial.. and if you watch when they build buildings.. they are all stick welding.. not MIG/Tig/flux smile

 

But that's what I've been told *shrug*...

 

but you hit the nail on the head allan.. the two big reasons I chose a flux core welder is a) price. B) portability. I can throw my welder in the trunk and go.. I dont' have to drag a gas bottle around with me. my welder is also a 110v unit which makes it even beter yet smile

 

ifI have REALLY heavy welding to do. I'll go use dave's MillerMatic mig :P~

 

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A buddy of mine put in a "Cheetah" manual valve body w/ compression braking and he loves it! I think its the valve body I'm gonna end up using in my 400.Its nice because you can run through the gears like a full manual, or drop it into low(I think) and use it just like regular automatic.

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if it's a manual valve body, all automatic functions are deleted.

 

some do engine brakign, some don't.

 

i've considered a full manual for my 700 but we'll have to see.

 

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the nomad has been on the road since 2003 and we cut out the frame and put pockets in the frame for the leaf springs and its still together and it was welded with a 110v linicl 100hd. even when its turn to its loses heat range its still to hot for sheet metal. also if u put a lil angle on ur metal you can make the weld strong instead of butting the metal together. ive done welding for the past 10 years so i learned a lil on my way out the door. most of the buildings that r welded together they used a 7018 rod. ive seen them build bridges on tv and they used a wire feed mig with 7018 wire. my dad looked at ur welds tim he said u need more practics.

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I was mistaken... If you shift in to Drive it will act like a regular automatic.Go into low and you have to run the gears like a full manual.Convenient if you still drive your MC on the street, but like to go out the Strip every once in a while.

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well.. i seems to me like all TH's do that... or do you mean if it's in Low 2, it stays in Lo2, even if you come to a complete stop?

 

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I've read most of the posts here and now I'll chime in. I say go with a B&M Pro Rachet shifter, put a JW reverse manual valve body(comes with a trans brake), and let the thing eat. My new turbo 400 has this set up and as long as you know where your converter stalls at ripping through the gears is awesome. Shifting below converter stall is still ok just not as crisp. Once you are above the stall speed it will snap your neck similar to a shift kit full auto shift. I for one like being in control of my shifts now. I can cruise and shift at 3K, or slam it to 6K and hang on. Just my two cents. I also highly recommend a JW Ultra Bell SFI flexplate shield. They currently don't have one for overdrives, but should be out by next year. Peace.

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I've already got an SFI 10.9 approved flex plate on it smile

 

my only concern with a full manual valve body is that I dont' want tire-barking shifts at light throttle.. most of the full manuals i've seen, completely delete all the shift cusioning.

 

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Hey KC, a higher stall torque converter will likely ease up on the tire chirps at part throttle. Also, you can leave in your accumulator springs which will cushion the shifts too. I'm not sure how your tranny was built/is built, but they can make it how you want it. I would be hesitant to get a full manual VB, if you lose engine braking, youwon't like it. Actually , you'll like it for a day or two, then when you are picking up pieces of whatever broke, you won't like it!

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lol.. the trans is getting built with an 'agressive' street shift kit. I told him tire chirps are full throttle are awesome.. I dont' want to be barkin the tires at part throttle tho.

 

i'm gonna stick with a stock valve body for now. .and he's gonna work some magic on it for me to improve durability and shift performance :>

 

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