Mo's70MCs Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 I still never really found the source of the leak, but I'm 99% sure its from the front tranny seal/torque converter (i just cant see for sure) even though I did replace that seal when I put the new engine in.I'm still puzzled cause the source of the leak is kind of important and could have alot more relevance than you think.. I somehow suspect a converter or xmsn problem! I can't see the motor behaving that way? keep us posted? Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloTerp Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 I already replaced the tranny modulator at the rear of the trans (is this the "xmsn"?) I've been leaning towards the torque converter being the problem. I'm going to take your advice, unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter and see how it runs disconnected sometime this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 I agree looks like that's the quickest way to get to the root of the problem, kid of sucks though! I'd be pissed, if I had to split it because of a bad converter. Keep us posted, I'd like to know the outcome? Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangeba Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 My stock converter was leaking at a spot in the weld. Cost me two trans pull outs and a ft pump prior to finding out the true cause of the leak. Did anyone mention to check the inside of the dist cap for carbon tracking or a fouled plug where the bad wire was? Could someone have crossed two plug wires as a prank? I did it myself once (not as a prank) good luck. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 I agree with Bruce! it's always a good idea to cover the basics.. you know what the say about assuming? I'll be the first to admit, it's very easy to overlook the tiniest of things.. there are some variables involved though! e.g.. electronic ign, firing order, alot of others depending on different set ups. The one that keeps bugging me, would be! "Pulling away from the station, there was a loud bang (like something shifting around) and the car started vibrating real bad (running rough)" Something broke!! Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloTerp Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 I sort of threw most ignition related causes out because the timing is still good. Rice gave me this advice awhile back and it was running great: Quote: Ok, first off the engine is no longer stock so throw the stock base timing out the window with that short quick timing curve in the dist. You do set idle in gear. Set your base timing at 12 deg btdc with the vacuum adv plugged. Then adjust your idle too 700 rpm in drive with the vac adv hooked up. Then plug the vac adv again and recheck timing if it changed due to rpm change, it could depending on the weight of the mechanical adv springs springs, repeat this procedure until you get 12 deg base timing with no vac adv at 700 rpms in drive once you get this then hook the vac adv back up readjust the idle speed back to 700 in drive, this way you know that at 700 it still has enough base timing. The timing mark was still at 12btdc with the vac plugged at 700rpm, so Im good with that. Anyway, what am I going to need to do to run the engine with the tranny disconnected. Can I just unbolt the converter, or do I need to pull it too before I can run without damage (Im worried about the flex plate banging the converter or something). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloTerp Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 So I went to start the car after disconnecting the trans and I fried the starter wire again (the one from the starter to HEI). Totally destroyed/melted. Fixing this/finding the cause of the short becomes priority I guess. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 Jon, I'd say that's important.. although you could reroute the wiring to the HEI distributor, I'd have to say it has a dead short to fry the wire all over again.. and when you say it fried the stater wire you mean!..the wire that originates from the starter R terminal (the #6 stud furthest from the engine block on the starter solenoid). This wire provides full battery voltage to the coil during cranking only. There are a bunch of different ways to reroute it.. and besides I do believe you're working on a "70" not that it matters, but originally you had standard ign.. so when you installed the HEI dist you had to get rid of the old dist wiring? Anyhow the new HEI requires different voltage and I like to wire the constant hot from a different source other than from the old solenoid term!.. have you ever taken a solenoid appart and looked at the lil portion of copper they used to make a temp connection! It had alot to be desired! That's a pretty hot area of the motor and with all the heat transfer involved I always thought it would breakdown and undermine the integrity of the solenoid! I think the reason for the redesign in the Delco Remy stater and solenoid, they did away with the "R" term all together. Getting carried away from the subject.. keep us posted.. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloTerp Posted July 18, 2006 Author Share Posted July 18, 2006 Quote: I'd say that's important.. although you could reroute the wiring to the HEI distributor, I'd have to say it has a dead short to fry the wire all over again.. and when you say it fried the stater wire you mean!..the wire that originates from the starter R terminal (the #6 stud furthest from the engine block on the starter solenoid). This wire provides full battery voltage to the coil during cranking only. Couple Things: 1. ^^Yes, this is the wire I'm talking about. What do you think is causing the dead short? I replaced the entire wire after the first time, with good clean connections at the ends. 2. What are some replacement/reroute options? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo's70MCs Posted July 19, 2006 Share Posted July 19, 2006 Jon, the easiest way would be a switched 12v source from the ignition switch, but it would'nt be very practical, it can also be achieved from the fuse block as well, using the fused side of an "ign" spade on the block, I've done it!.. even easier by putting a T-tap connector onto a switched wire like the radio..some might disagree! The primary side of the coil draws very liltle current. Now a cleaner job and deleting the existing wires can be a bit more difficult, it all depends on how clean you want the job? Key!..deleting the resistance wire that used to feed your old points distributor and applying a good "fuseable" & "reliable" 12v source to the HEI distributor. A good inexpensive kill switch comes to mind also! PM me if you want! Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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