NavyCPO Posted May 18, 2023 Share Posted May 18, 2023 Got some progress yesterday and fixing to hit it again today. Installed the new battery tray, all new belts and found out why my speedometer isn't working, installed new battery and put new (temporary side terminals) terminals on until I can get a good set of pre-molded cables. It looks like the transmission side cable has the end broken off at the cruise control module keeping the tranny from spinning the module and the speedometer. I disconnected the cable for the speedometer side and spun it a few times with my fingers (counterclockwise in case you're wondering) and the speedometer needle moved when I would spin it. So it's either the cable or the cruise control module. The shaft looks awfully short to me on the transmission cable and it looks like it has jagged edges on it and broken off into the module. I haven't figured out a way to spin the gear in the module yet to see if the gears are still good. I plan to remove the CC module and make sure I don't have the end of that cable floating around in there if I can. Shocks, front brakes, wheel bearings and races and new rubber lines today, or at least get started on them. Oh, One more thing, I have this rubber line on the driver side fender well that is taped off with some red cloth and electrical tape that I have no idea what it is for or where it should go? It is marked "EVAP" on several places on the hose. Could that be something coming from the fuel tank like a vent line or something? Or is there supposed to be another VACUUM can on the drivers fender well or something? It's right around the area where the cruise control module is mounted. ?????????????? 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Is the evap canister still bolted to the core support. Drivers side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCPO Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 Nope. Is there supposed to be one there? What is it for? Got any pictures? Or know where it is in the manuals where I could find some pic's of it? I have traced the line backwards yet to see where it leads to but looks like it goes down towards the transmission tunnel and down into the darkness!!! LOL I've only got the front of the car jacked up now and can't get under the middle or back yet. Probably jack the [censored] end up tomorrow to change the rear shocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCPO Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 Made some more progress today! Finally things went pretty smoothly today. Got both sides of the brakes taken apart, took the rotors in to get turned and decided to go ahead and replace the calipers since they were only $31 apiece and with my military discount and tax exemption they only ran $56 for the pair. They'll be here in the morning when I got pick up the rotors. Got the front shocks changed out, easy peasey! Put my grill back in as I don't think I need to go back in there for anything right now. All in all, not a bad production day. Tomorrow, replace bearing races, and bearings and seals and put newly turned rotors back on with brand new calipers and pads and rubber brake lines front end will be done, just need to bleed them. Then I'll move to the rear brakes and inspect the drums/shoes and put on the Air Shocks. I'll see how I like them. I may go with a coil over setup later but for now, I chose the air shocks because I think the back of the car needs a little lift. I've got 15x7 Rallies I believe. If I go to the outside of the rim they are about 8" but if you go to the bead seat they are about 7" which is what I think they are. YH code on the wheels. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 12 minutes ago, NavyCPO said: YH code on the wheels. Those come back as a 15x7 rim: YH 15X7 Back Space-4 1/4" L72- ZL1 Z28 Rally 69 narrow drop center (Could possibly be a fairly rare rim, meaning worth a lot of money to the right person) From the chart here: https://www.firstgenmc.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26766-gm-rally-wheel-id/#comment-247137 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Same rim as on my 70. We did a topic on this particular rim awhile ago. They were used on the Monte in 70 ( partial year) before going to the 71 rim. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 This is a picture of my 71. Same idea. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Peters Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Just a note, I could be wrong (I thought I was wrong once before but I was simply mistaken) you may want to wait to do the bleeding until the rear brakes are done and start with the rear on the passenger, then bleed the rear on the driver's side then the front passenger side and finally the front drivers side. I was always taught to start bleeding the wheel farthest from the reservoir when bleeding brakes and work forward from there. If you are doing a total gravity bleed I am not sure if that holds true. I have never had great success with gravity bleeding. rob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtret Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 I agree with Rob on the gravity bleed but I do it when I’m doing a major brake job. I do the work on the right rear and then leave the bleeder open while I’m doing the left side just to push air and make sure there’s a good dripping, then close it and do the left rear. I always go back and do a hard pressure bleed when I make sure I have flow to all 4 wheels. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCPO Posted May 20, 2023 Author Share Posted May 20, 2023 18 hours ago, Dtret said: This is a picture of my 71. Same idea. Yep mine is definitely gone. This was originally a California car, but I guess when the ol' guy moved to Oklahoma, he took off all the smog stuff. I guess I can track that line down and just eliminate it all together. Thanks for the photo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCPO Posted May 20, 2023 Author Share Posted May 20, 2023 14 hours ago, Rob Peters said: Just a note, I could be wrong (I thought I was wrong once before but I was simply mistaken) you may want to wait to do the bleeding until the rear brakes are done and start with the rear on the passenger, then bleed the rear on the driver's side then the front passenger side and finally the front drivers side. I was always taught to start bleeding the wheel farthest from the reservoir when bleeding brakes and work forward from there. If you are doing a total gravity bleed I am not sure if that holds true. I have never had great success with gravity bleeding. rob Yes that is my plan. Even if I don't do anything to the rear brakes and they look OK, I'm still gonna do a complete bleed from furthest to nearest port several times to ensure all old fluid is purged out and flush the system and no air in the lines. :-)😎 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCPO Posted May 20, 2023 Author Share Posted May 20, 2023 Well I ran into another snag tonight. Picked up my rotors from being turned and put the inner race in the first one no problem. Put the inner race in on the second one and it literally fell right into place without me even having to drive it in. Apparently this rotor is worn and won't properly hold the new race. I seriously doubt that Timken has a race that is out of tolerance, so I went ahead and just ordered another rotor from Rock Auto. I think I ordered the one from Raybestos. I put the other rotor back together and got it installed with new caliper and rubber line on the passenger side, now I'm AWP again (AWaiting Parts) for the other rotor. Oh well, I still have to install the air shocks and inspect the rear brakes while I wait for the other rotor. And I may go ahead and start ripping into the HVAC Box. After a thorough lashing and a Safety lecture mind you, Joe has convinced me to go ahead and bite the bullet and go ahead and replace the evaporator and get the correct one for my car. I'll have to order another POA Update kit too cuz I'm pretty sure I buggared up the threads on the one I have. But Joe's right, at least this way I will have the correct stuff on the car and the system should work much better than original because they new condensers and evaporators have improved technology to help them work more efficiently with R-134a. So now I'll have new Compressor, New Condenser, new receiver/dryer, new condenser line, new expansion valve, new evaporator and POA Eliminator. The only part that won't be new is the metal line that runs in front of the condenser and the big line for the compressor manifold but it looks to still be in pretty good shape. Now if only all of the vacuum and controls work to operate the system! I put up a good fight because I did not want to have to get into that HVAC Box, but I finally succumbed to Joes Logic. LOL He's absolutely right! Let's do it right! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jft69z Posted May 20, 2023 Share Posted May 20, 2023 3 hours ago, NavyCPO said: I put up a good fight because I did not want to have to get into that HVAC Box, but I finally succumbed.. Lol, yes Dale, you did put up a good fight! That missing tube on your existing evaporator, and the corresponding mating port on the POA valve eliminator with just a shipping cap on it, would have been disaster though. Glad it's sorted out now, I think you'll be much happier in the long run. (Short run is gonna suck though, changing the evap, hahahaha). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCPO Posted May 21, 2023 Author Share Posted May 21, 2023 Got the new Air Shocks on today, rear brakes are OK for now. Wheel cylinders looked fine and tomorrow I'll be changing the rubber line at the pumpkin and running the air lines for the shocks. Maybe painting the wheel hubs and the front rotor I put back together without painting. Paint was an afterthought................. Ordered the new Evaporator today and another POA Valve eliminator and a seal kit. Hopefully the HVAC box won't be as bad as I'm imagining it is!!!!! LOL 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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