MonteFox89 Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 ok so... I'm having issues! I had my timing up to 30+ before I actually had time to get a timing light in there and set it on advanced 13. but now that I have it set on advanced 13 I'm wondering if it's not getting enough gas, and if that's the case I would need to up my power valve in my carb. I'll list the symptoms here; when going between 0-15 mph it doesn't wanna accelerate, when I come to a stop it likes to die if I sit longer than 4 seconds, and if I punch it from a stopped position it sputters and tries to go then dies. Any help is appreciated! P.S. 355, .30 over pistons, mild cam, +13 timing, 650 Holley Carb (made in 76), smallest power valve for the 650 carb (I do have about 2-3 extra valves sitting around). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Check and make sure your advance weights free and moving Try a little more base timing maybe 16-18 degrees. How much mechanical advance do you have and when is it all in (2500-3000?) Also if using a vacuum advance canister how much total advance do you have with it connected? If you have a vacuum advance make sure it is free and working. Just some thing to look at. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 still new to working on the distributor and the timing so bear with me lol. Basically I have no tach to really check particular things that absolutely require a Tach. As for everything else I.E. Vacuum Advance Canister, it's working fine same for the advance weight. But as I said earlier I don't exactly have a tach so I'm blind firing but it's been working slightly so far lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbolt Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 A tach isn't required for setting timing, just the light. You should look into the vacuum gage in order to make sure you have the proper mixture, check for vacuum leaks, watch the timing marks when accelerating to see what your total advance is, things like that. Your problem doesn't sound like a timing-only problem to me rather just a poorly tuned engine that was masked by the timing advance being set too high initially. If your timing is set correctly and advancing correctly you probably need to make adjustments elsewhere to smooth it out and make it run right. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 just to cover an easy mistake i've made myself before.. you DID have the light on the #1 cylinder right? (that's front most cylinder, driver's side) i set the timing on an engine once.. couldn't figure out why it was so far off.. set it "right" and it ran horribly.. after double checking everything, discovered I clipped onto the wrong wire and was checking timing from #3 not #1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 8, 2010 Author Share Posted October 8, 2010 positive that I got it on number 1 wire lol I actually set it by the plug it's self so that way I knew it was on the right one lol ahhh I think this is the worst thing I'll ever be working with on an engine lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winston Wolf Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Set the total timing to 36 degrees BTDC with the vacuum advance unhooked. If it still runs like crap, work on the carb. Buy a cheap tach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winston Wolf Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 Also, what do you mean by the smallest power valve? They have a standard flow and a high flow. The size is the vacuum rating that they open at. If you are using the smallest one, which is 1.0" of hg, you better be driving a race car. Your car probably should have a 10.5" in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 57 Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 I noticed you said it has the smallest power valve for a 650. What does that mean? What is the number? If it is a low number it may not be opening soon enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 The power valve has a very little 6 on it and my rebuild kit came with a 6, 7, 7, and adjustable. I go with my elders advice around here normally lol and they suggested that since it was overloading in the past that I should be putting the smallest one I have in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 PROBLEM SOLVED! after going over countless hours of reading materials I figured out what was causing my car to die at acceleration! Turns out that it was the carb! seems it was getting to much fuel at acceleration which was causing a Rich bog down (causes the car to die) where as if it was lean it would have just sputtered and skipped (or seemingly skipped). So I furthered my reading and learned what was really causing the issues with it being to rich! turns out my accelerator pump spring was let out to much and it was force feeding my carb a bit early so I tightened it up and then drove it to town and had not a single problem. Well, I did have one problem, the gas tank is on the back and I couldn't find a gas pump on the end so I had to wait and then re-align my car twice with the pump to actually get the hose to reach because I don't have a passenger mirror! lol I'll get the hang of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 generally speaking, you want your powervalve to be just a little bit less then your vacuum at idle in gear (With an automatic) so if you idle at 16", you want the highest pv they make.. a 10.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 kk, so would and adjustable work if I turned it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc8oye Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 i've never heard of an adjustable power valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 It has the screw thing... I was told it was adjustable... errr, I am staring to think it's not adjustable, a little help on what THAT thing is lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Actually that looks like a 2 Stage power valve.. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-125-208/ Here is what Holley says about choosing the right PV QUESTION How do I tell what size power valve I need? ANSWER To properly size a power valve, take a vaccum reading at idle and if it is above 12" for a standard transmission a 6.5" will be safe to use. For automatic transmissions take a vaccume reading in gear at idle and if the vaccum is below 12" divide that in half for proper size. Example 9" of vaccume in gear at idle will require a 4.5" power valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteFox89 Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 so then my power valve should be very close to fine. maybe .5 off... I'm not running it on the strip, I'm simply wanting a great ride and to get the classics known Sooo, it should be fine... right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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