Just installed a 2004r Now issues. Help

[BigBlockMonte]

To see when the stall speed is just put your foot on the brake and give it the gas. If the RPM only goes to 1,600 RPM or whatever RPM then that is what your stall speed is and you know if you need a different torque converter.

 

This thing doesn't stall at all. In drive today, I gave it a shot seeing where it would jump to, It might have went to 1200-1300 when I felt the car pulling.

 

Im betting the converter is funky, It does the same thing whether the lock up connected or not. There absolutley no change in driving.

 

I got it kinda liveable for now. Wife says why wont it idle now, its all new right. Can't tell her, yeah its new but it has to come back out so I can buy another new part for it to work right. ha ha

[stangeba]

I assume in park or neutral, it's fine. (Perhaps you said and I missed it)

[BigBlockMonte]

Yes sir, Park & nuetral is fine, idle is fine, idles at 1000rpms. Put it any gear and its over. I can keep it ideling if I keep feathering the throttle while its in gear.

[stangeba]

Please don't laugh at this one but, have you shifted into gear with out holding your foot on the brake? Reason I ask is I saw a car that had a severe vacuum leak in the power brake booster and caused the car to die. Most of the time a driver will apply the brake then shift into gear. If it works properly, apply the parking brake, then shift inti gear. Doesn't cost anything to try this one! Good Luck!

Bruce

[BigBlockMonte]

I'll never laugh. I'll try anything to keep me from spending money and having to yank this trans back out again.

 

I'll give it a shot tomm, So your saying if the car stays ideling without my foot on the brake, I have developed a leak at the brake booster.

 

Like I said, I'll give it a try tomm. Thanks for the tip.

[MikeResko]

I have the same issues with my Stage 3 from BTO. I am running a 2200 converter and a relatively small cam. I also have EZ EFI and got rid of the carbs, because I thought it was a carb issue. Same thing-no improvement. I believe I have an electrical issue. I also have full MSD ignition. I believe mine is a short somewhere.

[MikeResko]

BTW, mine runs blindingly rich too. It has been in storage for a year, so alot of the specifics of mine have been forgotten-as far as issue specifics. I am swapping out steering columns for a tilt. I installed a Hurst shifter and removed the stock column shifter and the shift colar flops around. It may not make sense the way I explain it, but I think I am getting issues from my column. ALSO, I drove mine for a year or two before my issues showed up, so I am not sure you are having converter issues.

[BigBlockMonte]

I don't what kinda issues I'm having. All I know is I removed one tranny one day. car was doing great. Next day I put this one in, and now I have issues.

 

Its tempting to take the 2004r back out. Put in the TH350 to conclude once and for all its the trans/converter causing this issue.

 

And not timing, carb issues, etc. There were no problems pre-2004r. So something has to be up with this new trans or converter.

 

This was suppose to be a good experience for me,

[stangeba]

During the change over, I assume the rear of the engine needed to be lowered some. Doesn't the distributor bump into the fire wall when this takes place? Even if your removed the cap, could the dist or rotor be broken or cracked or bent. Again, just grasping at straws. You did say it free revs OK in park so perhaps not.

[BigBlockMonte]

Yes it does come close. So I removed it before hand, and I noticed the cap & rotor had seen better days. I replaced it with one I had laying around because at first I thought that was the problem. I ended up buying a new distributor to find out it was doing the same thing.

 

So now she has a new dist, new plugs (because I had thought at first maybe I broke one when removing the passenger header), new vacuum lines, sprayed carb & choke cleaner at all vacuum locations. I did find a baby leak at the base of the carb. I was excited thinking that was the issue, Fixed it. The driveabilty seemed to improve, (but that could be in my head), and it still wont idle in gear without feathering the throttle.

 

I don't anything about lock up converters, so I don't know if is is locked up at idle and releasing during driving I dont know. I do know, I have hooked & unhooked the lock up with no changes.

 

So what else would cause the car to one day its running fine with the TH350. Take it out to put in the OD trans, and now all of a sudden it doesn't idle in gear.

 

You would have to think its something to do with the converter right? Its something trans related. Has to be.

 

So if there are any tricks to fixing it without removing, believe me I am all ears and ready to go. But I honestly think I may have a goofy converter on my hands, especially since it been sitting for several years without driving. For all I know the guy broke in the motor with the converter low or dry.

 

When I installed it, I seen fluid in the converter, but it still took 9quarts to fill everything up, and I don't have a deep trans pan, its your basic 2004r trans pan.

[stangeba]

First, do you know this trans and converter was OK when you got it?

 

Bow Tie OD has a good explanation of the lock up system here:

Bow Tie article

 

So NO fluid to lock up the converter till second gear. Just thinking here, is the shift linkage out of adjustment?

 

I helped put a 2004R into a 1939 Suburban with a inline six last summer. The kit I added has a speed sensor inline with the speedometer cable for something (lock up speed?) and there is a short ground wire (mentioned above at Bow Tie) along with the one red wire that plugs into the drivers side of the trans. Is that ground wire attached to a GOOD ground?