dbreese Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Is there a way to temporarily lock out an hei distributor to see if it will work properly with the starter and engine combo? I would like to lock it out at 36 degrees and see how it does. Right now I have 19 degrees initial and 15 degrees mech all in by 3000. TIA David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 I'm not sure I understand the question. Right now you have 34 degrees total and you want to try 36 total without changing the initial? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 Sorry, my math was wrong 19 intial and 17 mech. I just want to make sure there are no starter issues and that it likes 36 degrees all the time before I make the lockout permanent. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc71454 Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 Just put on one light spring for one weight and "e" clip the other weight with no spring. You'll have all the timing in the instant you blip the throttle and be able to start it very close to your initial timing setting It will be easier on your starter and battery and fywheel/flex plate. Grind your weights or flip over the center piece between the weights to change the total. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 Hmmm...so you want to set it up with 36 degree initial and no mechanical? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 Mike Would I still leave my intial @ 19 degrees? The light set up would mean my total would come in much faster, right? Thanks for your help. BTW, have you gotten your racepump installed? Wallaby, From what I understand you get excellent throttle response and clean idle from a locked out dizzy and 36-38 degrees seems to be the magic number. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc71454 Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 Mike Would I still leave my intial @ 19 degrees? The light set up would mean my total would come in much faster, right? Thanks for your help. BTW, have you gotten your racepump installed? Wallaby, From what I understand you get excellent throttle response and clean idle from a locked out dizzy and 36-38 degrees seems to be the magic number. David Set your initial by what you get at total. I am assuming you have a timing Tape installed on your balancer (Summits own brand is the best). Turn your distributor to the desired total timing and as long as the initial is reasonable (up to 20 degrees) you are all set. The timing will advance to the max instantly. When the race track traction is marginal, I will install the second spring (medium)to slow down the advance on the initial tire hit. (I leave at 1200 RPM) BBC's usually like 34 to 38 total and all in by 2000 RPM, BUT it depends a lot on your cylinder heads. When running my Canfields my motor liked 38 degrees, the switch to AFR's this year I have found 35 to be the best ET and MPH wise. It has to do with cylinder head efficiency and flame travel in the chamber. I was happy as the 3 degrees gives me a little more safety cushion when I fill up at the convenient store No Race Pump yet, used up that spare time selling my GN and buying the chevelle. I have a track rental at the end of the month, should have it on by then. Thanks for asking... Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted September 13, 2006 Author Share Posted September 13, 2006 Tom, Sorry for calling you Mike. Don't know why I did. Could be a senior moment. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc71454 Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Tom, Sorry for calling you Mike. Don't know why I did. Could be a senior moment. David LOL....I do it all the time Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted September 14, 2006 Share Posted September 14, 2006 Hmmmm.... All in by 2k? I am not set up that way, but may try it. Also, the lower the compression, the more timing a motor generally likes correct? I am just looking for little tweaks to squeezze out whatever there is potential for. Will it matter if you move your full in advance from 3k to 2k if your stall is around 3k? I currently run 17 initial, 38 full at 3k, only mechanical advance. Iron head 454 with 8.75 compression, 3.55 gears with a ~2800 converter. Any thoughts or recommendations? Don? Tom? Bueller, Bueller, Bueller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc71454 Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 Hmmmm.... All in by 2k? I am not set up that way, but may try it. Also, the lower the compression, the more timing a motor generally likes correct? I am just looking for little tweaks to squeezze out whatever there is potential for. Will it matter if you move your full in advance from 3k to 2k if your stall is around 3k? I currently run 17 initial, 38 full at 3k, only mechanical advance. Iron head 454 with 8.75 compression, 3.55 gears with a ~2800 converter. Any thoughts or recommendations? Don? Tom? Bueller, Bueller, Bueller? It will depend where you leave the line...I leave at 1200 RPM and my timing when set on "kill" is all in by 1500 RPM, so it is virtually instantaneous. It will help your 60 ft times and therefore your ET.... .....and you doesn't have to call me Johnson ! I guess I dated myself with that one...LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted September 15, 2006 Share Posted September 15, 2006 sorry guy's, Don's internet is out until this weekend, I'm sure he'll catch-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted September 15, 2006 Author Share Posted September 15, 2006 Tom I leave at 1500 rpm. Course I ain't got no torque monster b/b like you just a 10.25:1 385 with 3.73 gears and a 3000 stall converter. I'm heading to our local t&t on Oct 8th so I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again for the advise. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Not sure if I understand, but I would use a dial-back timing lite for adjusting your advance. Heck mine was only 6 bills from the snap-on man. I am sure you can get one of those cheap Chucks ones or something too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 Yes there is a away to lock the dizzy when you want. Make you 2 small steel links to put in place of the springs so the mech can't move. When you get to the track pop the cap pull the springs and weights, install the straps and e-clips. Reset the timing to what every you want to try. I would suggest that you hook the coil power wire thru a toggle switch so you can get it spinning over before you throw spark to it. The starter won't like 36 degrees of lead when cranking. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted September 17, 2006 Author Share Posted September 17, 2006 Thanks for the reply Don. I'll give both your's and Tom's way a try and see what I like best. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 David locking the dizz may make you run lean at idle and at low rpm. You most likley will have retune to get the truest results. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbreese Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Thanks for the info on re-tune Don. I have friend who has a chassis dyno with afr measuring. Could I just fatten it up with the 4 corner idle if there is a lean idle? I'll also shoot Patrick @ Prosystems an e-mail to get some feedback from him. I have one of his 4150 carbs and the thing is just awesome. Thanks again for your input. I highly respect your expertise. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 You may have to put smaller idle circuit bleeds in as well as fatten up the mixture screws. Try the mixture screws first. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heckeng Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Post move, pay no attention.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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