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engine rebuild kit


jacob

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does any one know where to get a engine rebuild kit? I have a bearing making noise and its getting worse I dont want to throw a rod ... and I would like to rebiuld my engine any way. I want to get a thumper cam,aluminum heads... any kits like that out there???????

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how much hp would a 350 bored .30 over,thumper cam,edlebrock high rise manifold, edelbrock carb,k and n air fillter ect. what would the torque and hp (estimate)

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If 300HP is enough for you and you want reasonable drivability and gas mileage, you might want to consider amending your plan to a low rise spread bore intake and a reasonable cam.

 

I notice in another thread you are also looking to replace the roof. Your going all out indeed, big challenge, at least time is on your side.

 

Good luck with your restoration.

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Jacob, I'd recommend checking out the program 'Desktop Dyno' by Mr. Gasket. I got it years ago, should still be available. It was about $20 when I got it.

 

You can punch in every spec there is for an engine - bore, stroke, cam specs including lobe separation, 0.050-to-0.050 timing or total timing, lifter style, flow bench data from heads, etc etc - and it calculates horsepower and torque curves. Obviously they're just estimates, but you can save a lot of parts $$$ and build the engine you want virtually.

 

I've found lots of data on manufacturer's websites. Exact cam specs, the flow bench data, all that stuff. That should help you narrow down how much 'thump' you'll want out of that cam.

 

Small piece of advice I got from my dad - if you get over 270 total duration on your cam, you're going to have a hard time making vacuum for power brakes. The more experienced builders could chime in on this if I'm wrong.

 

For myself, I'm building a low-end torquer. Max horsepower at the top end isn't what I'm looking for, so I used the program to put together something that has a nice, fat, flat torque curve that starts all the way down low. Haven't built it yet, but the simulation is putting my configuration at making over 400ft-lbs from 2000RPM on up.

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I would also suggest talking to a local machine shop and see what they can offer. They are going to need the parts before they do any machine work to the block and heads. My local guy back in FL could just about match the prices I was going to get from Summit and if I had any issues he would take care of me.

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If you've not already been to a machine shop, how do you know you need to go to 0.30" over? Did you measure it out yourself with a caliper? You should never bore more than you have to out, once it's gone the only way to put it back is to sleeve the cylinder, and that's expensive and will never be as strong as the original.

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  • 5 weeks later...

i have 1000 pound a engine stand and we are borrowing a cherry picker from a pro mechanic its a 8 ton and we can have it as long as we like

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heres my engine where going to take off the exhaust manifolds/headers and motor mounts and push the car back and we wouldnt lift the engine much another good reason for taking off the front end.

 

JacobsMonteCarloMBCarShow196.jpg

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