2 cents Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 okay I don't know exactly how to say this but I'm having a terrible problem with several of my wiring systems after installing gauges, after installing gauges my turn signals worked for a short amount of time and then stopped completely, my brake warning light is no longer working, and I lost both Accessory ports in the fuse panel and after a little bit of working lost 1 of ignition Ports (always on) on the fuse panel. also my headlights turn off and on. sometimes quickly, they don't dim. just like they getting shut off and on sometimes quickly sometimes kinda slowly in between, but like cutting out, not like dropping voltage, like a loose connection. Have good ground. when I lost my accessory ports it wasn't as soon as I installed the gauges, I lost 1 at a time and about a half hour later me and an electrician friend were working on the car we lost the ignition port, the always hot. he worked on car electrical systems before and has not run into this problem. I am at a loss. car has a new motor, new transmission, new dash and new gauges I really don't want to put in a new harness at this time because of the cost of everything I have already done. new alternator too I should mention. am I missing something a relay possibly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 Hey Jason, If you are indicating that you have changed Your dash from Idiot Lights cluster to the Tach and Gauge Cluster and all you did was switch just the Cluster and not the Dash wireing harness and printed circut board??? That will be 100% of the problem as a Idiot light cluster uses a different dash wiring harness from the Tach and gauge Cluster with the different printed circut board, there are about 7 wires that have to relocated and also adding 2 more and running them correctly along with the printed circut board if trying to keep the old dash harness. QUIT driveing the car if this is the case as you will have many more shorts and could have a dash harness fire waiting to happen... Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 If this is the problem let me know and give me an email address as I have a conversion wiring diagramm and also a fuse block pin relocation diagramm that is color coded and states the pin locations that need to be moved as long as you have bought the printed circut board to go with it. let me know and I can email you the 5 pages.... Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 cents Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Thank you darren, but no, it's a fully modded stock dash, with all autometer gauges, I eliminated all stock gauges & idiot lights, heres a Pic http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=8109217387 I had an electrician friend verify I had wired it correctly. Circuit board is long gone. Is there possibly a bad relay? I'm not sure where I would look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71 MONTE 4 YA Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 If this is the problem let me know and give me an email address as I have a conversion wiring diagramm and also a fuse block pin relocation diagramm that is color coded and states the pin locations that need to be moved as long as you have bought the printed circut board to go with it. let me know and I can email you the 5 pages.... Darren. Darren your PM box is full. I need the diagram please. I sent an email to the address in your profile. Sorry to interupt this thread. Thanks... Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallaby Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 I'm thinking your headlights are the clue here. The headlights are independent of all the other stuff; they have a dedicated supply voltage that comes from the buss bar at voltage regulator I think. The headlights don't have any fuse or fusible link to burn out. The entire headlamp circuit is designed to keep your headlamps on even when other circuits are failing...for obvious safety reasons. The only "fail safe" in the headlamp circuit is incorporated in the headlamp switch itself, and it's a circuit breaker. It will shut off the headlamps when it gets hot and resore connection as it cools down. Most of us have never put enough load on the circuit to see this happen...it takes almost a direct short to trip the circuit breaker. Your headlamp ON-OFF problem sounds like an overload tripping the breaker. The other circuits you have issue with all run through fuses in the fuse panel. Even the IGN, BAT, and ACC terminals on the fuse panel are run through fuses on the panel that may be labeled as something different...that's why it's important that ALL the fuses be checked. I'd suspect that somewhere in your install you got + and - reversed, probably in the gauge lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam (Bones) Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 are the fuses blowing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
black07ss Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Originally Posted By: LS5 If this is the problem let me know and give me an email address as I have a conversion wiring diagramm and also a fuse block pin relocation diagramm that is color coded and states the pin locations that need to be moved as long as you have bought the printed circut board to go with it. let me know and I can email you the 5 pages.... Darren. Darren your PM box is full. I need the diagram please. I sent an email to the address in your profile. Sorry to interupt this thread. Thanks... Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS5 Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Originally Posted By: LS5 If this is the problem let me know and give me an email address as I have a conversion wiring diagramm and also a fuse block pin relocation diagramm that is color coded and states the pin locations that need to be moved as long as you have bought the printed circut board to go with it. let me know and I can email you the 5 pages.... Darren. Darren your PM box is full. I need the diagram please. I sent an email to the address in your profile. Sorry to interupt this thread. Thanks... Rodney Hey Rodney and Bob.. I am going to empty my messages right away here for more room and am more than happy to email to you guys give me 5 minutes Darren. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monte70car Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 I was able to see the picture of your dash yesterday there could be alot of load on the fuse panel. Have you checked for any bare wires touching the metal case of the gauges? how about any pitched wires? For the headlights did you ground the headlight switch to the metal ring? On your connection did you use butt connectors or did you solder the ends together? When you say you removed the old cluster harness did you cut the wires and tape the cut end or leave the cut in open where it could touch the metal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 cents Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Thanks wallaby, I found the headlight problem, my ground wire itself was bad, I replaced the wire & my headlights are , I don't know if the shop that swapped the motor & Trans stretched it to make an internal break or what, but thats the only issue that was solved. I will pull power to the guages & see if I get my blinkers domelight & other stull back but I don't see how that's causing my acc ports on fuse panel to go out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 cents Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 No Sam, none blown as confirmed visually & with test light. Headlight problem solved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 cents Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 Monte 70 car, all wires were soldered & heatshrink, I solder for my job daily & am very good at it, all old ends were heatshrinked. For easy dash removal I used male/female connectors. Don't believe I pinched anything, but damn man somethings up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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